I am going to make some rear suspension drop brackets for my 93 Exciter
Do I have to drop both mounting points?
I am just thinking around 2"
Do I have to drop both mounting points?
I am just thinking around 2"
i would. should actually do all three, third being the upper crosshaft supporting the track.
on a 2" drop, i would drop the front scissor about 5/8" same on the center. by doing this it will help retain balance and geometry and not load the skis as much making future adjustments easier.
on a 2" drop, i would drop the front scissor about 5/8" same on the center. by doing this it will help retain balance and geometry and not load the skis as much making future adjustments easier.
dsc577
VIP Member
different sus.but when i dropped my rear 2 on my 89 the track flapped on the front arm,i dropped the front 1" and now its all level and works great,
©RxSX
New member
dsc577 said:
Can you elaborate on this please?
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dsc577
VIP Member
inside of my track was rubbing on the front swingarm,on the white plastic pieces,sus looked like youres,did some reading and found the idea that you in general drop the front half as much as the rear,worked good for me,rails are level and with fox shocks in it rides just fine,actually way better then stock,i also put in vmax 600 front struts so i needed to balance things out,the deal i had on a xtra10 fell threw and i was just playin around with the stock one,been riding like this for two yrs with no issues
dsc577
VIP Member
©RxSX
New member
dsc577 said:
Hmmm. I don't have that problem. Mine is raised a bit more than I would like but that's because there's not much clearance for the underseat coolers. I'm not sure if the front mounts would have any effect on that.
I don't understand why people would use drop brackets with stock suspension. At least for trail riding. It certainly doesn't give any more travel. I realize you have different front struts.
You know if I could have put Fox Shox in my oem skid I certainly would have just for the simplicity. My oem shocks were shot, filled with water. Oh well, I still ended up with Fox in the X-Tra 10 and this Polaris skid is night and day over the stocker. I know people with much newer sleds than mine that have replaced with an X-Tra 10.
©RxSX
New member
dsc577 said:
Never heard that, but your rear is dropped much more than two inches. Isn't it?
dsc577
VIP Member
i dropped it for ditch banging,works way better for the riding i do with it,wouldnt be any use on groomed trails,could use a longtrack and deeper lugs but the snow usually aint really deep around here,rear is dropped 2 in,you can kinda see the original bolt above it,original bracket is stii in place,made those brackets so i could try 3 but its good enough.next skid may be a 136
srv540
Member
Thats a xtra 10 suspension in that SX, yeah ditch the stock skid for something that will give you better gains almost anything will fit in these sleds!
©RxSX
New member
dsc577 said:
Right, I forgot there was oem brackets. Thanks for the info.
I keep tinkering with mine, it's kind of fun. I'm not sure why as I keep telling myself I'm going to sell.
dsc577
VIP Member
yea,i think stock is 1 in,so i suppose if it was removed on this year ex.youde need a 3 inch drop bracket,great sleds to tinker with
KEVIN said:
snowdad4 said:
dsc577 said:
dsc577 said:
©RxSX said:
dsc577 said:
crimsonride said:
Lots of conflicting information in the above tread !
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©RxSX
New member
Lasse said:
There is?
Maybe the only confusing part is why someone is moving a stock skid down. It's for ride height. Not improved suspension action.
dsc577 said:
Did the same to mine, works awesome
thefullmonte
New member
Let's get people thinking a bit about what drop brackets actually do.
If you go to smaller drivers you may do this to get your approach angle corrected again.
OK, create an imaginary center to your sled. Maybe the drive shaft. Now think of your sled as a teeter totter. Now think what raising the back of your sled will do............................think about it.......................keep thinking.
think some more...........Figure it out or give up. Lol It is creating more ski pressure. This may or may not be welcome. Might create a very "heavy" steering feel.
Now keep in mind the rear suspension is very adjustable even back then. So you can adjust ski pressure and transfer to some extent already.
Example. My sled I want to tip over very easy in the deep snow. So, I will be removing the sway bar. (hope it works Lol) This will leave me with a sled that really handles like crap on the trail. So for my situation i will welcome some extra ski pressure. And in the deep snow I will welcome an improved approach angle to the track.
Just wanted to touch on this. Depending on how much you drop the rear and why you did it. Are you changing drivers, do you need more clearance? If you drop the rear you certainly should adjust the cross shaft to stay in line with what you are doing in the back. Keep in mind most newer sleds don't have this even with 163" tracks. (just saying) Lol I would only lower the front unless what you did in the back is netting some unappealing results. Too much pressure or track rubbing as described.
Another thing to consider is bolt spacing of your rear suspension mounting. Center to center. If you just bring brackets down, your bolt hole in the rear should actually be forward of the old position. Your rear suspension is actually pivoting downwards at an angle. Not straight. Hope that makes sense.
If you go to smaller drivers you may do this to get your approach angle corrected again.
OK, create an imaginary center to your sled. Maybe the drive shaft. Now think of your sled as a teeter totter. Now think what raising the back of your sled will do............................think about it.......................keep thinking.
think some more...........Figure it out or give up. Lol It is creating more ski pressure. This may or may not be welcome. Might create a very "heavy" steering feel. Now keep in mind the rear suspension is very adjustable even back then. So you can adjust ski pressure and transfer to some extent already.
Example. My sled I want to tip over very easy in the deep snow. So, I will be removing the sway bar. (hope it works Lol) This will leave me with a sled that really handles like crap on the trail. So for my situation i will welcome some extra ski pressure. And in the deep snow I will welcome an improved approach angle to the track.
Just wanted to touch on this. Depending on how much you drop the rear and why you did it. Are you changing drivers, do you need more clearance? If you drop the rear you certainly should adjust the cross shaft to stay in line with what you are doing in the back. Keep in mind most newer sleds don't have this even with 163" tracks. (just saying) Lol I would only lower the front unless what you did in the back is netting some unappealing results. Too much pressure or track rubbing as described.
Another thing to consider is bolt spacing of your rear suspension mounting. Center to center. If you just bring brackets down, your bolt hole in the rear should actually be forward of the old position. Your rear suspension is actually pivoting downwards at an angle. Not straight. Hope that makes sense.
thefullmonte said:
Exactly ! 99% of people forget this or are not aware of this !
dsc577
VIP Member
yep,moved my back slightly forward,measured and kept all dimensions the same,gotta remember i did this because of additional height in front from adding vmax struts,im running the rear springs in the middle position,if i put em on firmist it darts like crazy,ive redone the rear brackets with stronger ones since,front limiters all the way out and there tight,skid level,rear track adj normal,
Yes i moved my back aswell, however i got the wrong cc from the beginning so i got 3 cm wrong. That is now taken care of thanx to monte It had a very bad effect on the rear susp (saggy).
i had to compensate for the higher vmax struts aswell (quite a big difference compared to org).
It had a very bad effect on the rear susp (saggy).i had to compensate for the higher vmax struts aswell (quite a big difference compared to org).
The purpose of drop brackets is to raise the ride height of your sled.©RxSX said:
It does this by lifting the tunnel of your sled higher off the track,
this allows you to go through the powder snow much easier,
and it will also change the attack angle of your sled,
putting more pressure on your front ski's which some people prefer, some not.
You can adjust your limiter strap and front suspension if you do not like the additional ski pressure.