1993 Exciter Drop brackets

KEVIN

KEVIN

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I am going to make some rear suspension drop brackets for my 93 Exciter

Do I have to drop both mounting points?
I am just thinking around 2"
 
i would. should actually do all three, third being the upper crosshaft supporting the track.

on a 2" drop, i would drop the front scissor about 5/8" same on the center. by doing this it will help retain balance and geometry and not load the skis as much making future adjustments easier.
 
different sus.but when i dropped my rear 2 on my 89 the track flapped on the front arm,i dropped the front 1" and now its all level and works great,
 
inside of my track was rubbing on the front swingarm,on the white plastic pieces,sus looked like youres,did some reading and found the idea that you in general drop the front half as much as the rear,worked good for me,rails are level and with fox shocks in it rides just fine,actually way better then stock,i also put in vmax 600 front struts so i needed to balance things out,the deal i had on a xtra10 fell threw and i was just playin around with the stock one,been riding like this for two yrs with no issues
 
dsc577 said:
inside of my track was rubbing on the front swingarm,
Click to expand...

Hmmm. I don't have that problem. Mine is raised a bit more than I would like but that's because there's not much clearance for the underseat coolers. I'm not sure if the front mounts would have any effect on that.

I don't understand why people would use drop brackets with stock suspension. At least for trail riding. It certainly doesn't give any more travel. I realize you have different front struts.

You know if I could have put Fox Shox in my oem skid I certainly would have just for the simplicity. My oem shocks were shot, filled with water. Oh well, I still ended up with Fox in the X-Tra 10 and this Polaris skid is night and day over the stocker. I know people with much newer sleds than mine that have replaced with an X-Tra 10.
 
i dropped it for ditch banging,works way better for the riding i do with it,wouldnt be any use on groomed trails,could use a longtrack and deeper lugs but the snow usually aint really deep around here,rear is dropped 2 in,you can kinda see the original bolt above it,original bracket is stii in place,made those brackets so i could try 3 but its good enough.next skid may be a 136
 
Thats a xtra 10 suspension in that SX, yeah ditch the stock skid for something that will give you better gains almost anything will fit in these sleds!
 
dsc577 said:
you can kinda see the original bolt above it,original bracket is stii in place
Click to expand...


Right, I forgot there was oem brackets. Thanks for the info.

I keep tinkering with mine, it's kind of fun. I'm not sure why as I keep telling myself I'm going to sell.
 
yea,i think stock is 1 in,so i suppose if it was removed on this year ex.youde need a 3 inch drop bracket,great sleds to tinker with
 
KEVIN said:
Question:
I am going to make some 2" rear suspension drop brackets for my Exciter-II
Do I have to drop both mounting points ?
Click to expand...
snowdad4 said:
I would actually do all three,
Third being the upper crosshaft supporting the track.
On a 2" drop, I would drop the front scissor about 5/8" same on the center.
By doing this it will help retain balance and geometry and not load the skis as much making future adjustments easier.
Click to expand...
dsc577 said:
When I dropped my rear 2" on my Exciter-I the track flapped on the front arm,
I dropped the front 1" and now its all level and works great.
Click to expand...
dsc577 said:
I did some reading and found the idea that you in general drop the front half as much as the rear, worked good for me,
rails are level and with fox shocks in it rides just fine, actually way better then stock.
Click to expand...
©RxSX said:
I don't understand why people would use drop brackets with stock suspension.
At least for trail riding.
It certainly doesn't give any more travel.
Click to expand...
dsc577 said:
I dropped my skid for ditch banging.
Works way better for the riding I do with it.
Would not be any use on groomed trails.
I could use a longtrack and deeper lugs but the snow usually aint really deep around here, rear bracket is dropped 2"
Click to expand...
crimsonride said:
Just a side note:
Lowering the front mount of the skid wouldn't gain you anything since the track rests on the rear mounts bogey wheels and the top of the drivers.
Lowering the front mount would only increase your track approach angle....
and no one wants that.
Click to expand...
:ORC Lots of conflicting information in the above tread ! :ORC
 
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dsc577 said:
when i dropped my rear 2 on my 89 the track flapped on the front arm,i dropped the front 1" and now its all level and works great,
Click to expand...

Did the same to mine, works awesome:)
 
Let's get people thinking a bit about what drop brackets actually do.

If you go to smaller drivers you may do this to get your approach angle corrected again.

OK, create an imaginary center to your sled. Maybe the drive shaft. Now think of your sled as a teeter totter. Now think what raising the back of your sled will do............................think about it.......................keep thinking. :o| think some more...........Figure it out or give up. Lol It is creating more ski pressure. This may or may not be welcome. Might create a very "heavy" steering feel.

Now keep in mind the rear suspension is very adjustable even back then. So you can adjust ski pressure and transfer to some extent already.

Example. My sled I want to tip over very easy in the deep snow. So, I will be removing the sway bar. (hope it works Lol) This will leave me with a sled that really handles like crap on the trail. So for my situation i will welcome some extra ski pressure. And in the deep snow I will welcome an improved approach angle to the track.

i would. should actually do all three, third being the upper crosshaft supporting the track. on a 2" drop, i would drop the front scissor about 5/8" same on the center. by doing this it will help retain balance and geometry and not load the skis as much making future adjustments easier.
Click to expand...

Just wanted to touch on this. Depending on how much you drop the rear and why you did it. Are you changing drivers, do you need more clearance? If you drop the rear you certainly should adjust the cross shaft to stay in line with what you are doing in the back. Keep in mind most newer sleds don't have this even with 163" tracks. (just saying) Lol I would only lower the front unless what you did in the back is netting some unappealing results. Too much pressure or track rubbing as described.

Another thing to consider is bolt spacing of your rear suspension mounting. Center to center. If you just bring brackets down, your bolt hole in the rear should actually be forward of the old position. Your rear suspension is actually pivoting downwards at an angle. Not straight. Hope that makes sense.
 
thefullmonte said:
Another thing to consider is bolt spacing of your rear suspension mounting.
Center to center.
If you just bring brackets down,
your bolt hole in the rear should actually be forward of the old position.
Your rear suspension is actually pivoting downwards at an angle.
Not straight.
Click to expand...
;)! Exactly ! ;)!

99% of people forget this or are not aware of this !
 
yep,moved my back slightly forward,measured and kept all dimensions the same,gotta remember i did this because of additional height in front from adding vmax struts,im running the rear springs in the middle position,if i put em on firmist it darts like crazy,ive redone the rear brackets with stronger ones since,front limiters all the way out and there tight,skid level,rear track adj normal,
 
Yes i moved my back aswell, however i got the wrong cc from the beginning so i got 3 cm wrong. That is now taken care of thanx to monte:) It had a very bad effect on the rear susp (saggy).

i had to compensate for the higher vmax struts aswell (quite a big difference compared to org).
 
©RxSX said:
I don't understand why people would use drop brackets with stock suspension.
At least for trail riding.
It certainly doesn't give any more travel.
Click to expand...
The purpose of drop brackets is to raise the ride height of your sled.
It does this by lifting the tunnel of your sled higher off the track,
this allows you to go through the powder snow much easier,
and it will also change the attack angle of your sled,
putting more pressure on your front ski's which some people prefer, some not.
You can adjust your limiter strap and front suspension if you do not like the additional ski pressure.
 
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