Stud Leaking Coolant

OldIron

OldIron

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On the home stretch to finishing up this Viper engine reinstall after rebuild. Prior to home stretch I had two studs that are one on top of the other that were helicoiled. While putting the exhaust on I noticed that one of the two helicoiled studs was barely weeping a drip every 4 to 5 min of coolant. :o| I thought that when I tightened the exhaust down it may stop it. That did not work.

I was thinking about using some blue RTV sealer. Or using some locktite to seal it up. Any opinions on this?

Now that I've thought about it a little more I have to assume that when it was helicoiled, they must have breached the water-jacket.

:o| :o| :o| :o| :o|

I guess my options are going to be to send it back, or try and JB weld the stud seat. JB is only good up to 500 F. Not sure if the bottom of the stud gets warmer then that. It sits right next to the water jacket in the aluminum. So I'm not sure if that area will be too hot or not. I'm probably leaning toward sending it back but I wanted to see if anyone has fought this battle before.

Any ideas / opinions welcomed.
 
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snomofo said:
Newbee snip Any ideas / opinions welcomed.[/QUOTE said:
Teflon pipe sealant is used in automotive head bolt applications.
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yup just use some teflon tape. could throw a little high temp rtv on it also after u tape it. make sure u wrap tape in proper direction so it wont unravel when u tighten stud.
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Thanks. Great ideas. I really appreciate the input from everyone.

Maybe I will have that sled running this season yet. Lucky for me MT winters sometime last as long as June!! I almost went to Cooke City to ride my machine on the 4th of July last year.
 
davidgboy said:
yup just use some teflon tape. could throw a little high temp rtv on it also after u tape it. make sure u wrap tape in proper direction so it wont unravel when u tighten stud.
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I prefer the sealant vs. the tape (you don't have to worry about wrapping it wrong or it's affects on torque values).
 
I would send it back just for peace of mind, that would suck if it started leaking out ridding and overheated over this

Do it right not half a##
 
Its a new rebuild engine so why take a short cut, do it right the first time

Send it beck to who ever you got if from so it can be taken out of service
 
09nytro said:
Its a new rebuild engine so why take a short cut, do it right the first time

Send it beck to who ever you got if from so it can be taken out of service
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they will probaly ***k it up even worse.
 
Well I now millennium technologies would not send one out all hacked up, I would do it right because I'm not a hack, so send it back and get a new one but if he got it from a junkyard then call millennium and get a new one

Pay alittle now or alot later.

Just my two cents take it for what you will.DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME
 
09nytro said:
Well I now millennium technologies would not send one out all hacked up, I would do it right because I'm not a hack, so send it back and get a new one but if he got it from a junkyard then call millennium and get a new one

Pay alittle now or alot later.

Just my two cents take it for what you will.DO IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME[/QUOTE

as long as they are reasonable to deal with, otherwise may be more of a headache than it is already. it will either leak or it wont. test it out and if o.k. likely it will stay that way.
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those holes are not open to coolant unless someone drilled them out too much. I would use jb weld on the stud while installing it into the heli coil, let it dry for 24hrs before putting coolant into engine and it will never leak again. Since you already have coolant in engine, I would drain it and then wash out with clean water and preheat the area of cylinder with mapp gas to evaporate the existing water, get it good and hot, let cool down slightly and use jb weld on the stud portion going into cylinder. it wont hurt anything and no need to replace it if you fix it.
 
mrviper700 said:
those holes are not open to coolant unless someone drilled them out too much. I would use jb weld on the stud while installing it into the heli coil, let it dry for 24hrs before putting coolant into engine and it will never leak again. Since you already have coolant in engine, I would drain it and then wash out with clean water and preheat the area of cylinder with mapp gas to evaporate the existing water, get it good and hot, let cool down slightly and use jb weld on the stud portion going into cylinder. it wont hurt anything and no need to replace it if you fix it.
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yeah the engine is already back together. this was my first line of thinking. those people are not going to want to see that cylinder again anyways- not without receiving more $
 
My point is if I bought a new cylinder I want a new cylinder not one that leaks but if I bought the sled that way then maybe I would try and fix it the way mrviper said nothing wrong with it, it would work great

He just asked for input and I gave it, don't know if he got new cylinders or not never said if it was in my shop that's the way I would do it if my name is on it, just saying

Good luck!
 
09nytro said:
My point is if I bought a new cylinder I want a new cylinder not one that leaks but if I bought the sled that way then maybe I would try and fix it the way mrviper said nothing wrong with it, it would work great

He just asked for input and I gave it, don't know if he got new cylinders or not never said if it was in my shop that's the way I would do it if my name is on it, just saying

Good luck!
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understand where u are coming from. dont blame ya either
 
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