I was looking at some modifiactions to increase H.P. for my 2000 MM. I had a question of sequencing. It has SLP tripples, Ported cylinders, reed spacers, and boost bottle. I was wondering what needs to be done next in what order. I am looking at SRX reeds to increase airflow, I have a set of viper carbs,I have considered installing, but will that matter if it is not a big bore? I know if time and money were no limit I could go for broke, but champagne taste and a beer pocketbook. Can I get the reeds and install them, and run them now, or do these need to happen at the same time? Thanks
LOL...Since you asked...
IMO:
You have all the basics already to make a powerful reliable 700 Red Head.
I have a 1999 700 SX that has basically all the same mods that was very successful in drag racing and radar runs prior to being stretched to 144" and long travelled...it still is a real force to contend with head to head! I am still trying to beat this sled with my similarily setup massaged 2002 SRX!!!
Here's my .02c
If you go any further then you already have you will start to compromise reliability and then no one will be having fun anymore.
Comments:
-the SLP trail pipes you have are very good and are all you really need[I run Bender's and they are great as well]
-Mr Viper is sorting out your heads and cylinder heights already so with your porting you should be good! Plus you have the Peak heads that I run as well and they work well.
-stock Red Heads have an issue with the reed cages restricting intake flow and you already have spacers and cylinder mods that alleviate this issue
-I have had great success with boost bottles on my SXs[not so good on SRXs for some reason so I took it off my SRX]
-SRX reed cages are larger then SXs and I think with your's being ported and piped they would be a good addition. The stock SRX reed pedals are fine but I like the carbon tech carbon fibre reeds in the SRX cages.[remember the stock SRX cages are good for at least 150hp on a ported motor]
As far as carbs go...
-Viper carbs are the same size[33s] as the 700 red heads carbs
-I tried TMX 38s for a while on my SX and found the added money, setup work, tuning ect is not worth the small gain unless you go to a BB...even then the gain would be marginal
So the only thing left to do that would net you the biggest gain is CLUTCH tuning and GEARING for your specific application
JM.02c
Bob
IMO:
You have all the basics already to make a powerful reliable 700 Red Head.
I have a 1999 700 SX that has basically all the same mods that was very successful in drag racing and radar runs prior to being stretched to 144" and long travelled...it still is a real force to contend with head to head! I am still trying to beat this sled with my similarily setup massaged 2002 SRX!!!
Here's my .02c
If you go any further then you already have you will start to compromise reliability and then no one will be having fun anymore.
Comments:
-the SLP trail pipes you have are very good and are all you really need[I run Bender's and they are great as well]
-Mr Viper is sorting out your heads and cylinder heights already so with your porting you should be good! Plus you have the Peak heads that I run as well and they work well.
-stock Red Heads have an issue with the reed cages restricting intake flow and you already have spacers and cylinder mods that alleviate this issue
-I have had great success with boost bottles on my SXs[not so good on SRXs for some reason so I took it off my SRX]
-SRX reed cages are larger then SXs and I think with your's being ported and piped they would be a good addition. The stock SRX reed pedals are fine but I like the carbon tech carbon fibre reeds in the SRX cages.[remember the stock SRX cages are good for at least 150hp on a ported motor]
As far as carbs go...
-Viper carbs are the same size[33s] as the 700 red heads carbs
-I tried TMX 38s for a while on my SX and found the added money, setup work, tuning ect is not worth the small gain unless you go to a BB...even then the gain would be marginal
So the only thing left to do that would net you the biggest gain is CLUTCH tuning and GEARING for your specific application
JM.02c
Bob
Nice, Thank you Bob. Sorry about posting in the wrong spot. I have never seen an SRX,SXR or a VMAX. I get little response on the mountain sled area. I will get SRX reeds and get my cylinders re-decked. Then watch out Max is back! A few more, yes more questions. Do you still run the spacers with the SRX reeds? and also still run the boost bottle. In your opinion?
thanks for all the help. I mean it!
thanks for all the help. I mean it!
maxco said:Nice, Thank you Bob. Sorry about posting in the wrong spot. I have never seen an SRX,SXR or a VMAX. I get little response on the mountain sled area. I will get SRX reeds and get my cylinders re-decked. Then watch out Max is back! A few more, yes more questions. Do you still run the spacers with the SRX reeds? and also still run the boost bottle. In your opinion?
thanks for all the help. I mean it!
Yes:
-always run reed spacers on any Red Head, with stock or any other reed cages.[VForce 3 reeds come with a spacer for these engines]
-I would still run the boost bottle regardless of reeds on these engines as well...I still use it on mine.
Thanks, For all your help. I would assume whenever you make these changes plug and wash testing is highly encouraged. As for the clutching and gearing. I believe i am set up. If any of the following sounds off let me know. We like to hill climb, and we generally have 2 riders. I am a snowmoboarder. Geared down ,you lose top end speed, but around here there is no place straight and flat enough to get to the speeds you flatlanders do. How to make it climb better is the only real thing I worry about. Climbing ability means you have a better chance not to spend the night in the woods after conditions have changed. Coming over a high moutain pass in crunchy, stiff, windblow conditions in the morning. That same pass could be bottomless mashed potatoes the evening. LOL. It is geared right now with 19-42 on a 151 track, Chemplast 2/12 inch lugs, anti ratchet drivers. Ekholm tunnel, dropped and rolled chaincase. Secondary has Hartmann A5 custon progressive helix, black silver spring, 90 deg pressure, and XS ultimax belts. Primary is : Spring White-White-White, 42 grams on 8CH 10 swing arms. engagement at 4000+/-. I have the newer style of yamaha mountain skiis. Works shocks all around. I would like to replace the skid with a different one. It is a heavy beast.
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The spacers are not needed for the motor if you notch the srx reeds. spacers move the reed stopper back out of the rear boost port. notching helps this, notching on srx reeds cures this completely as the stopper is mounted further back into the reed. You could still use them but its not going to do much, if anything at all. when you do the srx reeds, you need to grind the sides of the case to make them fit.
match porting your carbs to the boots and your boots to your stuffers will give you a little more too.
match porting your carbs to the boots and your boots to your stuffers will give you a little more too.
nice, I had another post about doing some DIY porting. Case porting. So is it better to have a straight pencil grinder or a 90 deg for making these reeds fit?Thanks
reeds
So you need to make changes to make the SRX reeds fit into the Mountain max? How much and how hard is this? What tools are necessary?
So you need to make changes to make the SRX reeds fit into the Mountain max? How much and how hard is this? What tools are necessary?
maxco said:So you need to make changes to make the SRX reeds fit into the Mountain max? How much and how hard is this? What tools are necessary?
The SRX cages are larger and interfere a bit with the Sx engines reed boxes on the cases...it will be obvious when you try to insert them where the cases need to be relieved of some material so they fit properly[do this with the spacers under the reed cages]. A simple dremel tool will be sufficient to do this work. The trick is to not get any alluminum in the crankcases...it can be done with the engine still assembled and cylinders removed by stuffing rags in openings and vacuuming at the same time but obviously it is best to do this with the engine completely disassembled.
Ok Thanks SideshowBob. I am getting a set ordered as we speak. I will need to look at how to keep the shavings out of the crank case. I will probably have more questions when they arrive. LOL. I appreciate all the help. wish I could buy you a round of adult beverages. Cheers
I have a thread on this mod if you do a search.
Bethe viper
I looked at that post. Nice, so did you use a sanding bit on a dremmel tool? or the more aggressive bladed bits?
I looked at that post. Nice, so did you use a sanding bit on a dremmel tool? or the more aggressive bladed bits?
I used a blade bit and kept cleaning it. I did the one shown in the sled so I didn't dare use silicone on the blade to keep it from sticking. Thought it would cause my taped up crank area to pull off and let the filing go down. Then finished it a little with a sanding cone. If the case was apart, this is a quick mod. takes longer to port your boots and stuffers.
Thank you so much for your time. Parts should be on their way. 
I wont even tease you about not buying them from me. 
Sorry 
Didn't even know you and them. I did a search in for sale and hit up the first one that came up. Next time. Do you carry any mountain machine parts? MM, SXViper?
Didn't even know you and them. I did a search in for sale and hit up the first one that came up. Next time. Do you carry any mountain machine parts? MM, SXViper?
Reeds are in
So my question is this. They are carbon reeds, ans 2 sets look good. 1 set looks to be not setting right. The middle "slot" in the reed doesn't seat totally. if you look into them there is a kiss of daylight comming thru around the egde of only the middle finger of 1 reeed petal. Is this a problem? Can you flip the reed over without a problem? It is barely noticable, but I do not know. Thanks
So my question is this. They are carbon reeds, ans 2 sets look good. 1 set looks to be not setting right. The middle "slot" in the reed doesn't seat totally. if you look into them there is a kiss of daylight comming thru around the egde of only the middle finger of 1 reeed petal. Is this a problem? Can you flip the reed over without a problem? It is barely noticable, but I do not know. Thanks
maxco said:
This is not uncommon with the carbon fibre reeds and is not a real problem as long as they are not cracked or chipped and installed properly. You can turn the reeds over if you think its excessive and see if it helps.