Engine removal

M

maxco

New member
Joined
Sep 30, 2009
Messages
348
Age
57
Location
coloraDO
I am considering pulling my engine. In previous posts I was thinking about putting SRX reeds into me engine. New information is directing me to port my case to take full advantage of the air flow. I have not gone this deep before. I have my clymer manual. But this is a larger undertaking than I had considered. What hard learned lessons might those who have been before be willing to share? If I choose to do this I will need to remove the engine, and send the top of the case out for work. Words of wisdom?
Thanks
 
take your time, have a clean work area to lay out the parts, label things well, pictures to look back to when reassembling can help. not sure how good the clymer manuals are but you may want to consider picking up a yamaha service manual. they lay things out pretty good step by step.
 
V.I.P membership will give you access to the yamaha manuals on line. I own the clutch tools so I dont bother marking for clutch alingment. If you dont have the tools and are pretty confident its good where its at you can take a small drill bit and drill holes in the motor mounts to use as alignment pins. If your belt alignment is off it will squeal like a stuck pig! While you have engine out go over the harness. Make any necesary repairs and might want to add some loom protector to save greif down the road. I left the hood on my 00 sxr when I reworked the engine.......Note to self, when you take off manifold hood cable WONT support/stop hood and hood h any more! I got lucky, windsheild hit wall just past where cable would have stopped it and no harm!
 
this does not look good

This is a picture of the crank case. It looks discolored where the pin attaches. It looks blued? Looks like heat? The bearing moves well. It doesn't feel like it has excessive play. Is this normal? and why is it only on one side. Can anyone give me some thoughts? Thanks
 

Attachments

  • discolored crank.JPG
    discolored crank.JPG
    37.6 KB · Views: 169
Some of that (or all of it) can be from when cranks was welded together. Break it down and give it a spin, If it makes a bunch of noise you may want to replace.
 
I had blue like that on my crank of my 97 as well. Just make sure the rod still rotates smooth and doesn't have too much slop.
 
loom protector? Devil in a blue dress/

Loom protector? I see some on the bottom of the engine oil lines. And the oil lines going to the pump. Where else?
 
nice

So there I am removing the oil lines, and one of the barb pieces pops right off. Anyone know if this can be fixed? I thought about soldering it, but who knows what seals might melt. Do I just need to nut up and get an oil pump as well?
Thanks in advance for any help here. I need and appreciate it.
:2strokes:
 

Attachments

  • oil pump.JPG
    oil pump.JPG
    31.9 KB · Views: 165
Last edited:
maxco said:
So there I am removing the oil lines, and one of the barb pieces pops right off. Anyone know if this can be fixed? I thought about soldering it, but who knows what seals might melt. Do I just need to nut up and get an oil pump as well?
Thanks in advance for any help here. I need and appreciate it.
:2strokes:
Click to expand...

It's a press fit. You may not be able to get the fitting out of the hose without buggering it up so you have two options. Grab it with a pair of pliers to save the line or split the hose to save the fitting. Then tap the fitting back into the pump using a plastic/wood mallet.
 
Thank you

I don't know about this. Would you damage the fitting trying to put it back in, or worse would it seem to fit and blow apart later? Ruining an engine in the process?
 
coat it a little with red locktite and tap it back in.The oil pump doesn't cost that much used to buy anyways..maybe do that.Ask viperking ..he would have them
 
Last edited:
The next question

So I have the next delemma's I have the crank opened up. The case was sealed with a sealant (grey) it is all over the seal. Normally I would just replace, but from the look of this it would mean removing the end bearing. Can I remove the sealant w something that will not destroy the seal? Or can I remove this bearing ? My manual says to take a chisel remove the end bearing. This seems wrong to me. Does the end bearing have to be destroyed to remove it? Obviously the clearances are tight to work between the bearings/seals. Anyone?
 

Attachments

  • photo.JPG
    photo.JPG
    35.9 KB · Views: 103
went thru that with my 600..man I had a hell of a time with it.I basically destroyed the seal so I could get a puller behind that bearing.It wasn't pretty,full force with the impact gun and still would not move.Then put a little heat on the bearing and she shot off like a gun blast.I didn't wreck the bearing..thought I was cooked after all this..but has been on for 2 seasons already running.

You should always change them seals when engine is split.Hot and cold works to get these bearings moving.When my new seal was installed..I placed crank in the freezer all night and heated the bearing in the oven.Didn't expect what would happen next..but the bearing slide back on only by hand..was surprised.So maybe removing it..stick crank in freezer and take out..place puller on it and take a torch and quickly heat the bearing to expand it..it should pop right off.
There is gasket remover that you can spray on to remove the sealant that is on the seal and the upper and lower cases surfaces as well.
 
you have to use a bearing puller to remove the end bearing to change out the crank seal, then press the bearing back on, its actually very simple, you just need to use a spacer to place in between the crank throws so when you put it back on you dont move the crank out of alignment.

you can just wipe off the outside of the seal with some brake clean on a rag , if the seals have been changed just wipe off outside and use new yamabond(grey stuff) when you reinstall it.
 
a little intimidated here

I don't have a bearing puller, but looking at one on line. Do you break or cut the seal out to get the room to put the lips of the puller around the bearing? Or does it just slip beside it? I also have a question about the bearing puller do I need one? I have a 20 ton press. I am wondering if I cant use a couple pieces of 1/4 steel plate split with a hole in the center to fit around the shaft? Just a thought. About MrViper700's input. Spacers for the crank. What are they made of and where do you put them? I am having trouble visualizing the whole thing. DO you put the whole crank into the press and shim in between the cranks like stacking plates? Cant you take one of these plates and insert it between the crank "void" in the press. To press it on? I do not know, I am asking. Thanks everyone for the help.
 

Attachments

  • plate.JPG
    plate.JPG
    37.9 KB · Views: 102
Last edited:
I know no one knows what equipment I have access to to help so here is my press, and the crank in a possible senario. what do we think?
 

Attachments

  • cranknpress.JPG
    cranknpress.JPG
    46.4 KB · Views: 101
Last edited:
that is a cool idea actually..Just don't bugger up the end of crank.As you are pushing down on the crank,use a little heat around the bearing where it fits around crank to expand it and iy should pop off.
With my large puller the lip would not fit behind unless I dremel'd the lip of the seal to get it thinner..was not an easy job.
Let us know how it works,;)!
 
Last edited:
yes

I was wondering how to get the seal removed enough to get a puller behind it. I guessed i was going to use a socket to protect the end of the crank. The other thought is how to Catch the crank after the bearing pops off. Something to think about.
 
Last edited:
don't have to press it on..crank in freezer,bearing in oven = bearing installed easily with no pain or damage from forcing it on.Work perfect for me..was amazed actually..
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top