Nice, You used the oven? The manual said to heat it in oil. I guess maybe it is more gentle? I was going to use a piece of pipe or an oversized socket to press it back on the crank. Just a thought?
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bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
you have to press it dead on..if it is to far in,how are you going to pull it back.I measured how far my bearing was from the end of crank,it just slid on with my hand and I could pull it back or forth until it was where it should be.Also make sure to clean that bearing and re pack it with grease.Then after every season re pack it.I never new that it was pacable until when I did my rebuild.I do it every Fall now.Gently pull the seal off the bearing ,finger pack it with good grease and reinstall the seal..done.
maxco said:
you need to support the counter weights so when you press the bearing back on the crank stays true or you can tweak the rod throw and knock it out of true. The spacers are precision ground parralels, used for machining stuff. I place one on each side of the rod pin and add shim stock to get a good snug fit so you cant change the crank true or spacing of the 2 halves when you put the bearing on. You can measure the space and use aluminum blocks or even solid hardwood if its easy for you.
You can grab the bearing with a bearing puller, you tighten the 2 bolts and the pointed lips will grab the bearing outside and pull it off the crank, its not a giant press fit, only about .002-.003" fit, so it comes off and goes back on easy.
build a wood block to fit under your press for the crank to set down on when the bearing pops( I set a rag on it as well for cushion), only leave about a 1/2-5/8" space and it will set right on the wood, you can also add a block on each side to keep it standing straight up. Just make sure non of the rods interfere with anything they will bend very easily and then youll have junk. i have the same press you have there and do this all the time, its not a big involved operation.
Parts ordered
Like a kid waiting for Christmas Here I sit. Parts ordered. Yamaha seals/bearing. Don has my motor. I am glad he was able to fit it in. I just do not want to forget how this all goes back together. Because I am not a mechanic, I am worried about missing an important step/process putting it back together. I have bought the Clymer,and the OEM Manual. The OEM obviously takes for granted that you are a mechanic and know what to do. I am looking at cleaning parts, and how much oil to put around everything. I need some advice, of things to keep in mind while putting it all back together. I read a thread said to use a mustard jar( plastic bottle long nose) and put oil in every knook and cranny, and bearing run. As well as fill the void where the gear/crank for the pumps full before you put the engine together. These sound right to me, but you assemble the engine upside down right? What keeps the oil in while doing that? Or do you fill it after the engine is back in the machine, but before you put on the jugs? Also
What size of bead, and how far back from the edge do you run the Yamabond? Thanks for your input.
Like a kid waiting for Christmas Here I sit. Parts ordered. Yamaha seals/bearing. Don has my motor. I am glad he was able to fit it in. I just do not want to forget how this all goes back together. Because I am not a mechanic, I am worried about missing an important step/process putting it back together. I have bought the Clymer,and the OEM Manual. The OEM obviously takes for granted that you are a mechanic and know what to do. I am looking at cleaning parts, and how much oil to put around everything. I need some advice, of things to keep in mind while putting it all back together. I read a thread said to use a mustard jar( plastic bottle long nose) and put oil in every knook and cranny, and bearing run. As well as fill the void where the gear/crank for the pumps full before you put the engine together. These sound right to me, but you assemble the engine upside down right? What keeps the oil in while doing that? Or do you fill it after the engine is back in the machine, but before you put on the jugs? Also
What size of bead, and how far back from the edge do you run the Yamabond? Thanks for your input.
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staggs65
Moderator
I personally dont run a bead of the yamabond, I put on a thin layer and smooth it out with my finger (latex or nitrile glove on)
a few questions
So I have the parts back. I am looking at putting it back together now. First question is I have Yamabond 4, my manual says Yamabond 5. Problem? Second question is the engine had yamabond around the lips of the plastic oil seals, sealing the edges to the case. Is this the way it should be, or a good idea or not? Next, the c clip that is around the last bearing seal, does it matter where the "gap" is. I know the pin for the bearing determines where the bearing goes. However, the C clip looks like it could move anywhere. Does this matter? Along that line the manual says to use Low temperature lithium grease. I didn't find any. I just have white lithium grease. Is this a problem?Thanks
So I have the parts back. I am looking at putting it back together now. First question is I have Yamabond 4, my manual says Yamabond 5. Problem? Second question is the engine had yamabond around the lips of the plastic oil seals, sealing the edges to the case. Is this the way it should be, or a good idea or not? Next, the c clip that is around the last bearing seal, does it matter where the "gap" is. I know the pin for the bearing determines where the bearing goes. However, the C clip looks like it could move anywhere. Does this matter? Along that line the manual says to use Low temperature lithium grease. I didn't find any. I just have white lithium grease. Is this a problem?Thanks