Tips For New Sliders

SRX_700

New member
Joined
Jan 14, 2011
Messages
807
Age
55
Location
Toronto
Installing new ones this fall. Last ones got me 2,000 miles. I read that drilling holes prolongs life of slider. True? Any tips for getting them off and on? What else can I do to prolong life without scratchers and extra wheels? Anything to do to break them in properly?
 

I have drilled sliders in the past but cant really say if it helped,in theory it should by having snow pack into the holes and melt out when they get hot.When I drilled sliders in the past I drilled the holes on an angle facing forward to really pack the snow in there.
As far as breaking in a new set the advice I've been given and have passed along over the years is to put them through a few sets of heating and cooling cycles.Ideally to do this you should run the sled on glare ice to heat the sliders up and then into soft snow or even water to cool them off.This is supposed to harden or season the plastic to give it more life.
 
over size wheels,marginal kit and scratchers all work.Have gone 3 seasons on mine,around 5000 miles easily.Basically the wear is in the bend of rails,solved that with marginal wheels and also moved up the first idler wheels on rail also..perfect and no real wear happening now.
 
i always ALWAYS drill out my sliders for 2 reasons.

1 - no "guessing" as to how much slider material is left once they get older
2 - they pack solid with snow when there is plently of snow, whcih then melts when you hit a lake or road with little snow....

Personally, I drill them every 2" or so, with about a 3/8 bit, but thats just me...
 
chilli said:
i always ALWAYS drill out my sliders for 2 reasons.

1 - no "guessing" as to how much slider material is left once they get older
2 - they pack solid with snow when there is plently of snow, whcih then melts when you hit a lake or road with little snow....

Personally, I drill them every 2" or so, with about a 3/8 bit, but thats just me...
been there done that..not worth the effort for me..and really didn't improve anything anyways..
 
Run the yamaha black. Not aftermarket or colored they do not last. Make sure your track is not to tight. Which if you got 2000 miles out of a set, that is fair and track tension must be close. Not a fan of holes. And don't be afraid of running them down to the wear indicator line as they get closer to the line they wear slower then when new.
 
I check wear with a open 10mm wrench. If it slips over the side they are done. Like everyone says measure up by the bend wear they wear. I second the heating them up a couple of times and then cooling off. I had a new set on once and they melted to the clips before I did this, never did that again.
 
line up the screw on a track window, take out screw. loosen track alittle, line up the slider with a track window out back by the back idlers wheels, take a hammer and start tapping the slider out with a flat screw driver all the way out then just reverse the procedure with a new one

worked for me ;)!
 
I kind of view replacing hyfax like this. Just remove the skid and check the skid over while you have it out. Doesn't take that much longer and it's a lot easier to access the hyfax.
 
needaSRX said:
line up the screw on a track window, take out screw. loosen track alittle, line up the slider with a track window out back by the back idlers wheels, take a hammer and start tapping the slider out with a flat screw driver all the way out then just reverse the procedure with a new one

worked for me ;)!
That's the ay I do it also. I usually use a screwdriver to get it started but after that I use a 8-10" piece from an old hyfax to hammer it the rest of the way. Once I can get it out the rear of the track I grab it with vicegrips and yank. Had a buddy who gouged the crap out of one of his rails after the screwdriver slipped just be careful. Spray the rails with wd or triflo before you slide the new ones on. Makes it a little easier.
just my .02
 
Last edited:
I loosened the track all the way up. Take pliers to the side of them and roll them off twisting the top down. This worked the best for me to get them off. I've even tried using an air hammer and chisel bit but it was a pain. As for installing them use a file and round the edges of the skid at the back put some white lithium grease along the inside of sliders all the way down them. Then shove one through one of the windows get it started then use a deadblow and drive them home. The whole process took me about an hour. Good luck.
 
fourbarrel said:
I have drilled sliders in the past but cant really say if it helped,in theory it should by having snow pack into the holes and melt out when they get hot.When I drilled sliders in the past I drilled the holes on an angle facing forward to really pack the snow in there.
As far as breaking in a new set the advice I've been given and have passed along over the years is to put them through a few sets of heating and cooling cycles.Ideally to do this you should run the sled on glare ice to heat the sliders up and then into soft snow or even water to cool them off.This is supposed to harden or season the plastic to give it more life.

I do my heat cycles on the work bench. I use a propane torch with a flared nozzle, heat up the slidder, let it cool, do this 2-3 times. The hyfax will be well seasoned and ready for the snow.
 
Just a suggestion, run the graphite slides, I'm on my 2nd. Set since I bought my machine, well over 6000km. On the first set, could have lasted even longer but I figured the skid was out and I may as well replace them. I heat cycled them a few times when they were new, now this set has about 3000km. On them, wearing very well, likely will get the same life out of them.
 


Back
Top