vmax strut question

J

jscharphorn

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Joined
Sep 30, 2012
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9
Age
62
Location
Michigan
Hi Guy's
I purchased a nice looking 94 sled and noticed that the front struts on side moves fairly freely when pushed on and the other side I can not get it to move, if I stand on it and bounce it might move 1/4 "
How should these move and what or were can I get new/used good parts if needed.
Will a 95 600 vmax ones work ?

Are these replacable, what is inside the cartridge, is it just a spring ? can I take them a part and see what is up when them ?

I thought I would ask before doing the disassembly.
 
jack the sled up and remove the 2 nuts on top of the strut can.then remove the 4 bolts holding the can on,loosen em all a little at a time,then you can remove the spring and all the parts as one.theres a 3 mm set screw holding the strut to the ski mount on the bottom,once the shock is out you can compress it to see if its bent and check the knees to see if they move freely,
 
Thanks guy's I took it apart and the bottom knee bolt is froze on it and I can not get it to free up so the bottom knee will not move.
 
-T.S.S. Maintenance
On every used T.S.S. sled I've bought the Knuckles and steel bushing are frozen or completely locked up and pivoting on the bolts ! I've bought sleds that the locked up joints won't even allow the springs to return let, alone the struts to work when hitting a bump. The T.S.S sleds have always gotten a bad rap for slop developing when the ungreased steel bushing's freeze up they grind away on the nylon washers ! I have sleds that are 15+ years old that have never had a bushing kit and are almost as tight as new. Just take the knuckles and the ski mounts apart every other year and grease !
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Suspensi ... ccessories
Shim Kits http://s15106.50belowcommerce.com/produ ... oducts=tss
http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/100-650.html
http://www.schmidtbrosmotorsports.com/y ... -parts-vx/


http://www.vintagevmax.com/vvforum3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=1529
 
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Doing a set now for a guys 600. I have a couple of extra sets of 600 sissor assemblys I keep for parts. If you need something let me know.

BTW, just checked the current Yamaha list price for all the pins, bushings and washers to completly rebuild a 600 (both sides). It was just under $190 for the parts.

opsled
 
I need the bracket I guess and the lower arm, I can not get the bolt out, I brought it to the local yammy service and they could not get it out.
you can email me @ jscharphorn@charter.net

I am not sure if the correct part is named right ( the bracket ) it is the part that connects to the shock shaft and ski and the lower front arm # 2,
that is the bolt I can not get out.
 
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what happens is the bolt rusts to the collar,if you cut the bolt between the arm and ski mount it will come apart,
 
jscharphorn said:
I need the bracket I guess and the lower arm, I can not get the bolt out, I brought it to the local yammy service and they could not get it out.
you can email me @ jscharphorn@charter.net

I am not sure if the correct part is named right ( the bracket ) it is the part that connects to the shock shaft and ski and the lower front arm # 2,
that is the bolt I can not get out.
Click to expand...

Right or left side (as you're sitting on the sled)? The ski mounts are different for R/L.

I'll check out what I have and condition.

opsled
 
I got it cut off and salvaged the A arm but the bracket is shot, I can not get the bolt and sleeve out, I need to know if one is available right now, I found one on ebay that ends very soon so if I can save a few bucks that would help.
please email me right away
jscharphorn@charter.net
 
jscharphorn said:
I got it cut off and salvaged the A arm but the bracket is shot, I can not get the bolt and sleeve out, I need to know if one is available right now, I found one on ebay that ends very soon so if I can save a few bucks that would help.
please email me right away
jscharphorn@charter.net
Click to expand...

Here are pics of the set we just finished. Grease fittings were added to prevent future issues. The one pic is a before of the aluminum castings.

I have enough good parts for two more sets.

If your bolts have been run loose and the holes get egged in the casting they won't ever be tight again and wear between pieces do to bad washers can also cause trouble.

I should have what you need and would be fair but good castings can be hard to come by. I don't know what the ebay ones are you're looking at are or their pric/condition but you can sometimes get them real cheap there.

If you want to talk with me my cell is 262-716-3368

Good Luck, Phil

PS, It's about 3 hrs of work to R&R bushings, install fittings, get them cleaned up and clear coated with the right tools if things go right. With parts and labor the Schmidt guys are earning their money.
 

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the only problem i see with those grease fittings is that it's the bolt that siezes to the sleeve not the sleeve inside the bushings. It would be better if they were like the greaseable shackle bolts they use on jeeps and such to replace the OEM ones.

How hard is it to replace the seals in the knuckles?
 
HndaTch627 said:
the only problem i see with those grease fittings is that it's the bolt that siezes to the sleeve not the sleeve inside the bushings. It would be better if they were like the greaseable shackle bolts they use on jeeps and such to replace the OEM ones.

How hard is it to replace the seals in the knuckles?
Click to expand...

The bolts should be antisiezed before they are put together to keep them from rusting to the sleeve. When tight they pinch the sleeve to the aluminum arm and do not move. Greasing between the sleeve and bolt would do nothing to stop wear. The wear is between the sleeve and bushing. That is where the grease fittings are installed and what they lubricate.

Shackle style bolts would do no good.

There are no seals. Bushings, sleeves and special washers (nylon and steel).

opsled
 
opsled said:
The bolts should be antisiezed before they are put together to keep them from rusting to the sleeve. When tight they pinch the sleeve to the aluminum arm and do not move. Greasing between the sleeve and bolt would do nothing to stop wear. The wear is between the sleeve and bushing. That is where the grease fittings are installed and what they lubricate.

Shackle style bolts would do no good.

There are no seals. Bushings, sleeves and special washers (nylon and steel).

opsled
Click to expand...
I was thinking about the seals where the shock passed through the frame, my fault. I would not however use Anti-sieze as a lubricant. It does not offer a moisture barrier or really any sort of barrier between dis-similar metals. I use 3M silicone paste to lube nearly everything in the front end but I do like the way you added the grease zerks, on my sled the bolts were siezed into the sleeves themselves not into the knee joint.

jeremy
 
Those seals are easy to R&R.

Anti-sieze is not a lubricant. I don't use it as such. I use it between the bolt and the sleeve. Those parts don't move when things are tight.

opsled
 
opsled,
I got the parts today. Thank you that is what I needed.
The left side moved but was sloppy so I took it a part today and now I found the same part on the left side the bolt is froze in the bushing.
Would you happen to have a left side you can part with ?
jscharphorn@charter.net is my email
 
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