i have been a big srx fan for as long as i can remember this is my first sled.
the way it sits it the way i bought it it has a 144 polaris track that is junk its missing lugs and is just plain wore out. i am not sure where the suspension came from i am guessing a 03 viper mt but i cant find a part number so idk.i took it to the black hills last year and my younger brother on a 02 mm walked all over me all day every day until i hit a stump and broke my drive shaft. needles to say i wasnt to happy about it and to this day i still catch shit about it. it rides extremly rough and ski darts everywhere i have to work to keep it on the trail most of the time. so i wana do some work to it so i am not getting my *** kicked by a mm. i have it tore down in my shop right now i have a new track 144 cobra 1.35 in padles. a new bender can and clutch kit is on the way i am also attempting to put a seat of an 03 viper on for looks. i need opinion on some skies and gearing or if i should keep the gearing stock idk anything for more power i am looking and cant find a low black windshield like what came on it stock any ideas
the way it sits it the way i bought it it has a 144 polaris track that is junk its missing lugs and is just plain wore out. i am not sure where the suspension came from i am guessing a 03 viper mt but i cant find a part number so idk.i took it to the black hills last year and my younger brother on a 02 mm walked all over me all day every day until i hit a stump and broke my drive shaft. needles to say i wasnt to happy about it and to this day i still catch shit about it. it rides extremly rough and ski darts everywhere i have to work to keep it on the trail most of the time. so i wana do some work to it so i am not getting my *** kicked by a mm. i have it tore down in my shop right now i have a new track 144 cobra 1.35 in padles. a new bender can and clutch kit is on the way i am also attempting to put a seat of an 03 viper on for looks. i need opinion on some skies and gearing or if i should keep the gearing stock idk anything for more power i am looking and cant find a low black windshield like what came on it stock any ideas
Attachments
Suprx125
New member
Starting with the basics...how are your carbides? Whats the condition of your steering system? Anything loose? You can go to the tech section and look up "Darting & a fix" and check out Bethevipers ski alignment procedure. I am currently long tracking my Viper to a 144 w/ a 1.5 challenger track, but also dropping the top chaincase gear down to a 21. That will help with low end power for running a bigger track. You should look into re-gearing. How deep of snow are you riding in? Looks like you have the stock skis, definitely room for improvement there(especially in the deep stuff). I'm sure the guys will chime in with where you can get a windsheild. I found a black one for my Viper on Dennis Kirk. You could try them?
carbides are new ill have to look into the stearing system what do you suggest for gearing i am on the trail more than i am off it any where from 1 to 3 feet depending on where i am i guess i wanna buy some skis i was just dont know what is a good ski and a bad ski looked at some with two carbides in each ski idk ...im open to suggestions
Sounds like maybe the 144 conversion was not very well installed. If you are near one of the other TY'ers that do conversions maybe they could look at in person. If not maybe you could post a bunch of pics and we can try to figure it out.
Then you need to make sure the engine is healthy and work through the power train from there. Gearing is very important. Mtn skis are a big help with a Proaction chassis sled because they like to dive a bit. It would be good to know which skid you have and whether or not the geometry is correct.
Then you need to make sure the engine is healthy and work through the power train from there. Gearing is very important. Mtn skis are a big help with a Proaction chassis sled because they like to dive a bit. It would be good to know which skid you have and whether or not the geometry is correct.
I purchased a Simmons / Flexski...Generation III. Expensive .... however no more darting and good floatation in powder. You probably don't need as much floatation as I do out here in MT but in general I am happy with my skis even though they are pricey!
I'm pretty sure your SRX needs some tuning. You should be able to spank a MM although a MM is a good sled.
I would clean out your carbs, verify the jets and needles and compare them to the altitude and temps you expect to ride in. I'm going to guess you're running as Rich as Bill Gates. Check to see if there are some altitude charts you can use as a base line in the TY Tech / Engines section.
Also you may want to open up your clutches to see what you have then compare them to setups in the Clutching section in the TY Tech section.
I think if you're running a 144 track you should probably run a 21 in the gear case. Mtn Vipers run a 21 / 40 I think your stock SRX is a 23 / 38 for a non-mtn sled. If you gear it down a little it will handle that track better. You'll lose a little top end if it were a short track but it's not with a 144. Someone with a mtn SRX could probably give you better advice but since I have a mtn viper I'm talking from that perspective.
With all that said I think your carbs are probably gummed up and you're not jetted correctly. I would target this first then consider the clutching and gear case.
Look through the "Cleaning Carbs" and "Jetting" sections in the TY Tech pages under "Engines." There's a lot of great info in those Tech pages.
Good luck and keep us posted.
An
I'm pretty sure your SRX needs some tuning. You should be able to spank a MM although a MM is a good sled.
I would clean out your carbs, verify the jets and needles and compare them to the altitude and temps you expect to ride in. I'm going to guess you're running as Rich as Bill Gates. Check to see if there are some altitude charts you can use as a base line in the TY Tech / Engines section.
Also you may want to open up your clutches to see what you have then compare them to setups in the Clutching section in the TY Tech section.
I think if you're running a 144 track you should probably run a 21 in the gear case. Mtn Vipers run a 21 / 40 I think your stock SRX is a 23 / 38 for a non-mtn sled. If you gear it down a little it will handle that track better. You'll lose a little top end if it were a short track but it's not with a 144. Someone with a mtn SRX could probably give you better advice but since I have a mtn viper I'm talking from that perspective.
With all that said I think your carbs are probably gummed up and you're not jetted correctly. I would target this first then consider the clutching and gear case.
Look through the "Cleaning Carbs" and "Jetting" sections in the TY Tech pages under "Engines." There's a lot of great info in those Tech pages.
Good luck and keep us posted.
An
Last edited:
i clean the carbs atleast one a year and when i bought this sled it came with a set of what he labeled black hills jets pilot jets clutch parts and a different two different gears one big one small you can laugh at me but i have no idea how to tell what is what i was running the bigger gear at the time that is what i am guessing is stock i hope to tear some more down and and start the rebuilding process tonight more pics to come this weekend thanks for the imput big help
Suprx125
New member
The gears have numbers stamped in them. What are they?
If you have those carbs out write down the numbers for those needles and jets also. You may need a magnifying glass if you're like me but all the jets are stamped with numbers. Once you get these numbers you'll know what you're dealing with on the carburetor side of things.
Have you cleaned your power valves lately? Those can get gummed up and rob some power if they start sticking. There are a few good posts on that in the Tech section also. A lot of people clean their power valves every year as well. I think this is probably a good practice since if they're sticking or out of adjustment you'll catch it.
Definitely figure out your gears like Suprx125 said. That could be a big issue.
Have you cleaned your power valves lately? Those can get gummed up and rob some power if they start sticking. There are a few good posts on that in the Tech section also. A lot of people clean their power valves every year as well. I think this is probably a good practice since if they're sticking or out of adjustment you'll catch it.
Definitely figure out your gears like Suprx125 said. That could be a big issue.
i do need to clean the power valves and the gears that i got as an extra when i bought the sled is 21/39? and i was running the stock one in the hills
the hyfax in and wheels on the suspension only have 400 miles on them and there junk
the hyfax in and wheels on the suspension only have 400 miles on them and there junk
Attachments
Well, looks like you need to rebuild your skid with new bearings and hyraxes. 21 / 39 is not that far off from a 21 / 40 so those should work pretty well if they're still good. If you were running the stock gears I think you were overloaded. You've got a long track (144) which means you need to gear it down a little. If you're planning on running in the Black Hills I would put the 21 / 39 gears in, get everything else running well, then see how she runs.
Another thing I would do is a compression and lead down test if you can on your cylinders. She may need a refresh of the top end.
Just take one thing at a time and it will go by pretty fast.
Keep us posted on your progress. I think when you get through all of this you're not going to recognize this machine as for performance.
Another thing I would do is a compression and lead down test if you can on your cylinders. She may need a refresh of the top end.
Just take one thing at a time and it will go by pretty fast.
Keep us posted on your progress. I think when you get through all of this you're not going to recognize this machine as for performance.
snoprokidf6
Member
With those drop brackets in your sled, you're giving yourself a ton of ski pressure if you skid isn't set up for them
Suprx125
New member
That hyfax & those idlers only have 400 miles? How tight was your track? You should have that 21 tooth gear in all the time with the 144 track. Snopro is right though, you could have alot of ski pressure.
Good catch on the drop brackets by Snowpro. I wonder if the front was lifted at all. If not I would probably return those drop brackets to stock. Your approach angle was probably too high resulting in loss of traction. If that's the mountain 144 skid and track it should have ok travel.
By that picture of the hyrax, I would guess that the track was too tight also. It's amazing that it didn't seize up somewhere.
By that picture of the hyrax, I would guess that the track was too tight also. It's amazing that it didn't seize up somewhere.
drop brackets werent a contributing factor if the skid was set up correctly.
i see an alignment issue whacking out the bogies or possible a bad clip or two. yes, too much track tension would contribute to the excessive hyfax wear.
i would square the skid as well as confirm dimensions and square in the tunnel. that skid is a mountain skid 2000-2004. properly installed they work great. slightly out of rack and you will have problems. i have done several conversions and never seen the issues your experiencing. lots of other factors come to play as well. easy to burn the skid up in 400 miles if your riding hardpack. remember the taller lug tracks need alot more lube. i have seen them burn and stick in 1000'! ice scratchers are your friend.
only reason the raise the front is performance(reduces the submarine affect)notorious on the already nose heavy srx. assuming the dimensions are correct and square on the skid transplant, it appears to be done correctly. i dont see an issue, other than perhaps operator error. again, assuming the skid is dimensionally correct. no insult intended, you just need to confirm a few things or adjust riding style to the snow conditions.
i see an alignment issue whacking out the bogies or possible a bad clip or two. yes, too much track tension would contribute to the excessive hyfax wear.
i would square the skid as well as confirm dimensions and square in the tunnel. that skid is a mountain skid 2000-2004. properly installed they work great. slightly out of rack and you will have problems. i have done several conversions and never seen the issues your experiencing. lots of other factors come to play as well. easy to burn the skid up in 400 miles if your riding hardpack. remember the taller lug tracks need alot more lube. i have seen them burn and stick in 1000'! ice scratchers are your friend.
only reason the raise the front is performance(reduces the submarine affect)notorious on the already nose heavy srx. assuming the dimensions are correct and square on the skid transplant, it appears to be done correctly. i dont see an issue, other than perhaps operator error. again, assuming the skid is dimensionally correct. no insult intended, you just need to confirm a few things or adjust riding style to the snow conditions.
when i got it the lugs on the back wheels were off the ground it was at such an angle and putting all the weight on the front of the suspension i moved the limiter straps up as far as they go it did ride better but was still very bad ride i was thinking about movin to the bottom hole on on the drop brackets im not sure what the stock specs are because its a viper track on an srx i dont know how to figure that out and i did have an issue a few times at the gas pump the parking lot was kinda slushy i drive through that to get to the pump fill with gas and the track wouldnt move i prob sound like an ideot to you guys just bare with me plz thanks for the input much appreciated.
sounds like your hyfax were hot and melting prior to reaching the pump and the cool, wet slush probably cooled them to the point they were sticking to the track clips. seen that happen a few times in icy hardpack conditions.
the upper hole on the drop bracket is for standard snow conditions and the lower is to supposedly help out in deeper snow. there should also be a corresponding optional hole for the upper scissor mount. up on the bracket, up on the tunnel and vice versa.
the upper hole on the drop bracket is for standard snow conditions and the lower is to supposedly help out in deeper snow. there should also be a corresponding optional hole for the upper scissor mount. up on the bracket, up on the tunnel and vice versa.
Suprx125
New member
The yamaha ski does not look very wide. Probably not the best option if you plan on powder riding.
IMO a 7 to 8" wide ski is a good trade-off between trail and powder. Having a double runner will stop the darting but will make it harder to steer. Meaning more force on your handlebars expecially at low speeds. If you get a double runner ski try to use a shorter runner on the outside of the ski. This supposedly helps alleviate steering forces required but also keeps the darting to a minimum.
If you don't have it already, I "highly" recommend getting some ice scratchers on your machine as mentioned earlier. They will keep your hyfaxes lubed and cooled along with throwing a little snow / water on your heat exchangers while running on hard -pack.
If you don't have it already, I "highly" recommend getting some ice scratchers on your machine as mentioned earlier. They will keep your hyfaxes lubed and cooled along with throwing a little snow / water on your heat exchangers while running on hard -pack.
