780srxgeorge
Member
I liked the 16-35 gearing & w/ a 60* rape on the sceconddariy & a good track it will be a real FUN sled.but your onley going to hit low 90s mph w/ it.but Fun!!.can't wait to see it done.
Excitabletom
Member
Two thoughts for you. The front bumpers are notoriusly weak and rust. It's not uncommon for them to be broke without having a front hit (or a very light hit)
Next, a cheap fix to your belly pan might be a skid plate. My 96 Vmax MM600 had a crack in the belly pan and I just covered with a skid plate ($20 from a junk yard, as I recall.)
Next, a cheap fix to your belly pan might be a skid plate. My 96 Vmax MM600 had a crack in the belly pan and I just covered with a skid plate ($20 from a junk yard, as I recall.)
thefullmonte
New member
Thanks for that info. I will be happy with 70mph so it's good to know that even with that gearing it is pretty capable.
I didn't realize they were that weak. It was broken right at the mounting bolt so that makes sense. I have another one that seems to be real solid yet. So I will just use that.
Adding a skid plate was my first thought too. Haven't had any luck locating anything though. I see on Ebay there is a whole pan for $45 and it looks like Al's has a couple of pans for $40. Waiting for an email back from them with some pics. Would still like to add a skid plate though if I come across one.
Holy crap man!! u stripped the whole thing down, and i thought that i had much to do on mine
But it will be really nice to see it rise again from the piles into a Monte edition exciter in same good condition as the one u had before I´m very curious about that cut u had in the piston....it seems like the old farmers thing we used on our old mopeds back in the days. We called it "half moon". That together with a bit higher compression could make me a bit happier But i´m like you, topspeed doesn´t matter i just want it quick and suitable for deepsnow riding
But it will be really nice to see it rise again from the piles into a Monte edition exciter in same good condition as the one u had before I´m very curious about that cut u had in the piston....it seems like the old farmers thing we used on our old mopeds back in the days. We called it "half moon". That together with a bit higher compression could make me a bit happier But i´m like you, topspeed doesn´t matter i just want it quick and suitable for deepsnow ridingLooks like a Vmax 600 I stripped yesteday, it had a No Fishing from Beach sign for a belly pan! Those plastic cooling hose elbows are familiar too. Guys who did these sleds must be related, they shop home improvement for sled parts.
I think SRX blue would look great on that sled. There's another member on here that painted his that way.
While the skid is out instead of rebuilding it, get a later Vmax, or SCIII. I've got the front strut cross beam off a Vmax to weld in if you change your mind. Very cheap.
I use the Bender direct oil injection kit on both my Exciter, and SRX. works great, the oil supply is in synch w/throttle position. Also, it provides a truer jetting spec. Gas is the only thing that should run though your carbs. When the gas dries up, what do you think ios left in the bowls?
PS. I like Dial-A-Jets too. Not everyone does... But you're going mountain riding.
While you've got it apart, if you have welding capabilities, grind down the frame in the front cradle areas. Instead of having just the factory spot welds, completly run the entire seams. I've riden sleds done this way, and it really feels more solid.
Another old trick is to buy a couple of pieces of chromemoly, or steel tube. While the rear bumper is off, pound them in up to the front foot wells. Drill a small hole through , and rivet them in place.
Wish I could remember more, but it's been a long time since I did one of these.
Good Luck, John
I think SRX blue would look great on that sled. There's another member on here that painted his that way.
While the skid is out instead of rebuilding it, get a later Vmax, or SCIII. I've got the front strut cross beam off a Vmax to weld in if you change your mind. Very cheap.
I use the Bender direct oil injection kit on both my Exciter, and SRX. works great, the oil supply is in synch w/throttle position. Also, it provides a truer jetting spec. Gas is the only thing that should run though your carbs. When the gas dries up, what do you think ios left in the bowls?
PS. I like Dial-A-Jets too. Not everyone does... But you're going mountain riding.
While you've got it apart, if you have welding capabilities, grind down the frame in the front cradle areas. Instead of having just the factory spot welds, completly run the entire seams. I've riden sleds done this way, and it really feels more solid.
Another old trick is to buy a couple of pieces of chromemoly, or steel tube. While the rear bumper is off, pound them in up to the front foot wells. Drill a small hole through , and rivet them in place.
Wish I could remember more, but it's been a long time since I did one of these.
Good Luck, John
kev45sk8
New member
Lucky7 said:
i must admit i don't agree with you. all 2 stroke dirt bikes run premix gaz from the factory and actually it's the gazoline itself that make a crusty pasta in your carb when it dries... so why don't get rid of the oil injection ? (only my opinion here lol) i never seen the bender kit you are talking about, it looks interresting too
780srxgeorge
Member
If you are do someing w/ those carbs either going lucky7's way or stock need to do the upgrade on ventlines.i think its the 91 or 92 ventline update for the 87 to 90 EX.its here on TY foums somewhere & good info on it 
. 
like 
. like
thefullmonte
New member
Yeah Prankster this is going to be interesting. Lol Making some really good progress though. Just keep plugging away at it. Trying to make the best mountain sled I can afford. I should be able to do the whole thing for about $500 more.
Yeah, it is almost funny to see how some people fix things. Lol
Here is the Bender Racing direct oil injection kit.
I will tell you what I know about it. I'm not a fan of having to premix on a sled. To me it's just a hassle always having to measure out the oil. We ride off trail and even have to carry extra gas so I like the oil injection. Here is the "theory".
The autolube pump injects oil at a varying rate of 100:1 to 50:1 or more depending on throttle opening. This oil is injected into the fuel line before the fuel pump. Meaning the proper mixture of fuel and oil for a specific throttle opening could be awhile before it even gets to the carb bowl.
Direct injection takes the fuel directly from the pump and puts it in the intake tract. Since you are only dealing with a full oil line, the mixture adjustments are instantaneous.
Is it a real problem? Not sure? I know some very good mechanics that change it to direct injection right away. Some dealerships were changing it right out of the crate. All the old Phazers had direct injection as well. Again, if you are trail riding and constantly blipping the throttle the mixture may always be good. I know there are times we are in the trees just crawling and barely engaging the clutch and then have to go WOT. Not sure I'm comfortable with a 100:1 mix at that point. So for me it's just a peace of mind. I think they work good both ways.
780srxgeorge I believe all the updates have been done as this is a 93. Should be good to go.
I was actually thinking of doing something like that to stiffen them up a bit. I'm on a super tight budget so this year my primary goal is just getting it on the snow.Lucky7 said:Looks like a Vmax 600 I stripped yesteday, it had a No Fishing from Beach sign for a belly pan! Those plastic cooling hose elbows are familiar too. Guys who did these sleds must be related, they shop home improvement for sled parts.
I think SRX blue would look great on that sled. There's another member on here that painted his that way.
While the skid is out instead of rebuilding it, get a later Vmax, or SCIII. I've got the front strut cross beam off a Vmax to weld in if you change your mind. Very cheap.
I use the Bender direct oil injection kit on both my Exciter, and SRX. works great, the oil supply is in synch w/throttle position. Also, it provides a truer jetting spec. Gas is the only thing that should run though your carbs. When the gas dries up, what do you think ios left in the bowls?
PS. I like Dial-A-Jets too. Not everyone does... But you're going mountain riding.
While you've got it apart, if you have welding capabilities, grind down the frame in the front cradle areas. Instead of having just the factory spot welds, completly run the entire seams. I've riden sleds done this way, and it really feels more solid.
Another old trick is to buy a couple of pieces of chromemoly, or steel tube. While the rear bumper is off, pound them in up to the front foot wells. Drill a small hole through , and rivet them in place.
Wish I could remember more, but it's been a long time since I did one of these.
Good Luck, John
Yeah, it is almost funny to see how some people fix things. Lol
Here is the Bender Racing direct oil injection kit.
I will tell you what I know about it. I'm not a fan of having to premix on a sled. To me it's just a hassle always having to measure out the oil. We ride off trail and even have to carry extra gas so I like the oil injection. Here is the "theory".
The autolube pump injects oil at a varying rate of 100:1 to 50:1 or more depending on throttle opening. This oil is injected into the fuel line before the fuel pump. Meaning the proper mixture of fuel and oil for a specific throttle opening could be awhile before it even gets to the carb bowl. Direct injection takes the fuel directly from the pump and puts it in the intake tract. Since you are only dealing with a full oil line, the mixture adjustments are instantaneous.
Is it a real problem? Not sure? I know some very good mechanics that change it to direct injection right away. Some dealerships were changing it right out of the crate. All the old Phazers had direct injection as well. Again, if you are trail riding and constantly blipping the throttle the mixture may always be good. I know there are times we are in the trees just crawling and barely engaging the clutch and then have to go WOT. Not sure I'm comfortable with a 100:1 mix at that point. So for me it's just a peace of mind. I think they work good both ways.
780srxgeorge I believe all the updates have been done as this is a 93. Should be good to go.
I do respect your opinion. You may be right. I can be wrong, and often am.
I was talking about snomobiles, dirt bikes don't use injection because of weight consideration. Besides, how hard is it to clean a dirt bike carb? Nothing in the way.
Do you really want to carry oil in your trail sled? I use a Ratio Rite to ensure proper mixture on my 2 stroke stuff, on the trail you just kind of guess.
In dirt bikes, the temprature is pretty constant, jetting rarely changes. I've riden that sled at night when it was -37.
I just like the ease of using the Bender Kit. Their website says prices start at $25. My sled has had it since I bought it new. Very reliable as a Yamaha should be.
Has it burnt down? Yeah that happened too, but lousy gas happens. Even when you think you're buying premium. It was 10 yrs old, and needed porting.
I just try to help. If something I tried didn't work, I'd dump my 2cents on that too. I waste a lot of money on my toys, I just did a resto-mod KZ900, and am trying to finsh a stroker Vette.
Nothing but Love, John
I was talking about snomobiles, dirt bikes don't use injection because of weight consideration. Besides, how hard is it to clean a dirt bike carb? Nothing in the way.
Do you really want to carry oil in your trail sled? I use a Ratio Rite to ensure proper mixture on my 2 stroke stuff, on the trail you just kind of guess.
In dirt bikes, the temprature is pretty constant, jetting rarely changes. I've riden that sled at night when it was -37.
I just like the ease of using the Bender Kit. Their website says prices start at $25. My sled has had it since I bought it new. Very reliable as a Yamaha should be.
Has it burnt down? Yeah that happened too, but lousy gas happens. Even when you think you're buying premium. It was 10 yrs old, and needed porting.
I just try to help. If something I tried didn't work, I'd dump my 2cents on that too. I waste a lot of money on my toys, I just did a resto-mod KZ900, and am trying to finsh a stroker Vette.
Nothing but Love, John