New SRX 700 and have some Questions...

C

cmatica

New member
Joined
Nov 3, 2012
Messages
21
Age
36
Location
Up-state NY
---Intro---
Hi folks, I Just picked up an 04 RX warrior and 98 SRX 700 for the season.
I currently have them both torn down and I am very mechanically inclined, and I actually work on ATV's and Sleds for a living but have little knowledge on the SRX.

---Done so far---
Im about done with my Xtra-10 Swap (I had a free skid or I wouldve gone M-10)
Just have to finish refreshing the bearings and bushings, get my new shock, then get her In. I also flipped the front shock mounts so we will see how she sits when im done. I pulled the wiring harness and went through the rubs, And just for reference, my harness was rubbed through just to the right of the CDI, above your foot, and a little on the upper airbox bolt area. I replaced the exhaust donuts, did the carbs, new air filter, serviced, Br9ecs plugs, new belt, new clutch buttons, new carb boots, cleaned powervalves, etc.

---1st question---
She idles perfect, but if i blip the throttle It will rev up on its own until the clutch engages then go back down where its supposed to be.
I have been through the carbs already, they are cleaned and adjusted
I replaced the cracked boots to the airbox. Brand new belt, and new clutch buttons that were missing.
I noticed that the holes under the air filter have been opened up a bit, i didnt happen to check the jet size when the carbs were off.

---2nd question---
I noticed it has a Comet primary clutch, purple spring, Bender racing secondary Cam, looks like a silver or grey spring. and the clutch guard has a maximum performance sticker on it. also the reed bodies appear to be aluminum, they look aftermarket though i wouldnt know
What does it seem like the previous owners have done, are these good upgrades does it appear they were looking for top end or ???

Thanks in advance!
 

i would check your air screw settings im pretty sure if you go into the tech section you will find all the settings. good luck with your new sleds
 
Thanks, luck would be nice right now, every thing that goes bad with these seems to be. As far as the air screws i put them to about 2 turns out, 2 or 2.5 is about where i put everything i work on. It may be something related to that though I dont think so because it does idle perfect until I touch the throttle, then after it goes back down again its fine again.
I was wondering maybe something with the clutches, or the reeds or power valves, Those are things that I dont really know much about.
 
The power valves don't really affect anything until around 6000 rpms or so. But make sure they are adjusted correctly. The procedure is also in the tech section. Did you happen to check the reeds when your carbs were off? Were the petals closed all the way? Oh and :wel: . You came to the right place for this info.
 
Thanks and yea definatley the right place, I cant even say how much info I got on here before registering.
I took a peek in at the reeds, the pedal things looked to be in good shape, i think they were yellowish, and I didnt look to see if they were closed but i believe they were.
 
When it revs up from idle, will it continue to gain rpm if you give it more throttle, or does it seem to govern out? These have a Throttle Over Ride System (TORS) on them, if the throttle cable is set too tight it will engage. Many set the cable too tight after taking the carbs off and putting back on. My other thought is the pilot jets. I know you said you cleaned the carbs, but did you hold the pilot jets up to a light after done and make sure you could see a nice round hole through them? I've seen on mine several times where carb cleaner being sprayed through them didn't get all the crud out, have to actually run a small wire into them to break it all loose.
 
Try to lower idle to 1500 and see if it still does it, Should go away if not the cables are to tight or possibly a air leak some where.
 
MOD-IT- The TORS is bypassed from the Prev. Owner. The cable isnt too tight I have it adjusted properly. and yes the pilots are clear, I usually use a wire from a wire brush to clear them out.

SANKA- Ill try to lower the idle and post the result, I believe its around 1800 as of now.
 
Yes I dont plan to leave the TORS bypassed, I need to figure out this problem first and then ill see why that has been done. With the ol lady and my daughter on this sled I wouldnt even think of leaving it bypassed.
 
Well i just got back in from the garage
--keep in mind im not revving past engagement because I have the skid out.
I re-checked the throttle and choke cables
I hooked the TORS back up
I turned the idle down to 1500
Re adjusted the throttle cable

it still idles perfect, if i rev past like 2250, it goes right to 4000 and stays there until i hit the kill swith for a sec or 2, that brings it back down.


SOOO...
While idling I tried spraying carb clean on all the boots and reeds, and near the crank seal etc, no change. I wanted to test to see if its lean So i blocked off the extra holes that someone cut in the airbox, no change, so what the heck I blocked off all the holes at the top of the airbox and still no change! does it continue to run from the air allowed in at the bottom of the airbox?
 
What Pilots do you have in their and what are your air screws adjusted at? I had the same problem but got rid of the idle hang by adjusting the air screws out some more and lowering idle speed down to about 1,200 - 1,300. No more idle hang. Make sure your idle circuits are cleaned. Did you also clean the air jets in front of the carbs? Often overlooked. Does blipping the choke bring the RPMS back down? Make sure slides are adjusted evenly. They should be adjusted about 0.9 mm from the bottom of the throat of the carb to the bottom of the slide. Manual goes into detail about the initial setting.
 
Check your clutches. Take the primary cover off and remove spring. Then make sure sheaves move back and forth freely. Your clutch could be hanging up at engagement speed then when you hit the kill it slows the RPM's enough to free the clutch to open. If you have a puller you should take it off and clean it real good or even a run through the dishwasher works awesome. Bushings could be worn, cover bushing could be worn and binding. You have pretty much ruled out a air leak or idle hang. While your at it do the secondary also. Even a worn spring could do this. Not enough force to push out the sheave when off throttle.
 
Ok In the next couple days here ill first pull the carbs back off, go through them again, if i dont see any other problems in the carbs ill open the air/fuel screws up some more. ill make a note of the screws exact before and after adjustment for this thread.
Then ill pull the clutches and go through and clean them, and see what we get.

(my question #2)
anyone have any idea what the goal was on the clutch work done, and if its good stuff? or what maximum performance stuff it might have considering the sticker isnt for show haha
Or maybe if the aftermarket clutch stuff could be related to my hanging idle problem?
 
I think that you should put the skid and belt on the sled than try it.The clutch will not operate properly without the belt.The weights will cause the idle to not come down because there is no drag on the clutch itself.


.
 
It had the same problem when the skid was on, it would idle up to engagement on its own before though, then it would make the sled lurk ahead about an inch, then it would go back to idle.

now that the skid is out i have the brake on just to keep from binding the track up.

NOW the problem is before the primary clutch even trys to engage the belt and turn the secondary. First it idles, If i rev to l about 2200 it will jump right to 4000 and hang there, and the primary doesnt appear to do anything at all until about 4200.
 
Oh yea and the belt is on and is brand new.
BUT i havent run the clutches in and out by revving being that the skid is out.
Maybe the belt needs to seat in the secondary still, or in other words is too loose in the primary,
but it did this all before the new belt too!!! dang whats goin on!!!
 
I havent herd of to many comet clutches on a newer style srx lots on the old sleds but not the 98 and up.If the springs are weak or not proper on the primary it could be your problem.Try to close the sheaves by hand it should be hard to compress the spring.



.
 
Pulled the belt off, and the primary is REALLY hard to close
I mean it IS in the machine and its hard to get a good angle and a good grip on it to squeeze it, but I was only able to barely budge it.
 
I agree with blue. Trying to dial in the clutch or fix a problem is nearly impossible without skid in and everything hooked up. The engagement on a srx is 3800RPM so the primary wont move untill you reach 3800 rpm +/- a few. I still think your problem is in the clutching. If its a idle hang it usually doesent show itself untill a long pull when the engine is hot and does not have enough gas to cool the pistons down on the piolot circuit. Thats why you increase the fuel screw. If it revs up and hangs while engine is cool its a air leak.
 
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