I was trying to tension the track on my 01 MM 700. Seems like I have to tension it unevenly to make the track go on the center. On the left, of the tensioning stud, there is approx 13mm thread showing and on the right one, there is about 9 mm showing. Why is it like this, have I ruined my track? What's the worst that can happen if it is tensioned on one side, more than on the other?
thanks
thanks
My machine is like that as well. Everything lines up but the track windows seem offset. It's been run like that for a while now with no issues.
Check your drive axle bearings. If the front axle is out of align, the rear must compensate. Al
I had to make a compromise till I get it checked out. On the left side, 13mm of thread showing on the adjustment stud, 25 mm distance between the outer lug (third from the wheel counting towards the drive axle), and 11mm and approx 22mm on the right side. I also checked that no idler wheel will rub against the inside lugs and that the drivers still grip on the inside lugs on both sides, fully.
if you know your bearings are in good condition, i wouldnt give it a second thought.
the skids are rarely square to the tunnels and it doesnt take much to knock them out of line. your only deviating 2mm or less. you really dont set the tension and alignment based on the amount of threads showing on the bolts, its where the track rides in relation to the rails.
now if you were setting for straightlines, you would want to square the skid both in and out of the tunnel. your within allowable tolerances.
the skids are rarely square to the tunnels and it doesnt take much to knock them out of line. your only deviating 2mm or less. you really dont set the tension and alignment based on the amount of threads showing on the bolts, its where the track rides in relation to the rails.
now if you were setting for straightlines, you would want to square the skid both in and out of the tunnel. your within allowable tolerances.
Thanks for the input, I "know" that the bearings are in good condition. It does not ride dead center on the rails, sine it's a little to the right as stated. To get it to ride dead straight I would have to tighten the left side a lot more than the right side, which I think? will damage the track, so therefore the compromise.
in my opinion, you may cause more damage to the track by being misaligned. this of course if the track drive lugs are contacting the rails or the hyfax. tension would be the next concern.
dont forget the rails are typically tipped inwards at the front. you should be checking alignment mid rails, and compare along the way from the rail curves to the rear axle.
of all the tracks i have installed or aligned, i never paid any attention to the adjusters' lengths after completion.
in my mind, its straight and true over thread length. things would be easier to adjust if equal threads were the rule.
dont forget the rails are typically tipped inwards at the front. you should be checking alignment mid rails, and compare along the way from the rail curves to the rear axle.
of all the tracks i have installed or aligned, i never paid any attention to the adjusters' lengths after completion.
in my mind, its straight and true over thread length. things would be easier to adjust if equal threads were the rule.
Thanks again. I'll be checking the front of the rails tomorrow, but I'm pretty sure nothing is touching, on a MM, the track clips are quite a bit wider than the hyfax. The shop manual states that "both adjusters should be tightened equally".
super1c
Super Moderator
norwegian said:
"Both adjusters should be tightened equally" is true to the point of if you adjust both the same the track should be straight, on a NEW sled. This sled is not new and the rails have moved, things get bent (even though straight to the eye) and the skids can get out of balance. Snowdad is on the money with this one. How much thread is showing on one adjuster as compared to the other is meaningless anymore. If you want it closer pull the skid and make sure it is true and aligned. Do a search mrviper does a great write up on how to true a skid in his darthviper build. You will be amazed on how these skids can move. I would run the track as straight reguardless of how the adjuster bolts are. IMHO.
"text interpretation" is what i would call that. not the phone kind but the print in your manual.
heres my interpretation, and based on the pics and verbage from any service or owners manual: "adjust the track deflection until the specified amount is obtained"
left adjuster turn in, right adjuster turn out, so on and so forth. below where it says "the adjusters should be turned an equal amount", you need to rethink the directions.
the way i perceive the manual, if the track is running straight and the deflection isnt within spec, "the adjusters should be turned an equal amount".
in other words, if you turn the left one in 1/2 turn to loosen the track, the right one needs turned out 1/2 turn to keep the track aligned.
one may also draw the conclusion that if the adjuster bolts' thread lengths were an important factor, there would be a picture of said bolts and specs as to thread limits. use the limiter strap adjustment for a comparison.
just some food for thought. sometimes you can overthink things or even misread. rethink your adjustments based on my views and dont look back.
think snow!
heres my interpretation, and based on the pics and verbage from any service or owners manual: "adjust the track deflection until the specified amount is obtained"
left adjuster turn in, right adjuster turn out, so on and so forth. below where it says "the adjusters should be turned an equal amount", you need to rethink the directions.
the way i perceive the manual, if the track is running straight and the deflection isnt within spec, "the adjusters should be turned an equal amount".
in other words, if you turn the left one in 1/2 turn to loosen the track, the right one needs turned out 1/2 turn to keep the track aligned.
one may also draw the conclusion that if the adjuster bolts' thread lengths were an important factor, there would be a picture of said bolts and specs as to thread limits. use the limiter strap adjustment for a comparison.
just some food for thought. sometimes you can overthink things or even misread. rethink your adjustments based on my views and dont look back.
think snow!
these guys pretty much said it all..
just to add, I personally line up each side till i have the same clearance to the clips to hyfax, yes, sometimes 1 adjuster might be a bit differnt then the other. i think youll find this with differnt tracks as the runout/tolerance isnt perfect same as in race tires. And someone hit on how good the skid is square. You would be suprised to see how crooked they can be right in a brand new sled, if you loosen up the bolts they move around alot, you can even it all out and tighten the bolts back up to help.
just to add, I personally line up each side till i have the same clearance to the clips to hyfax, yes, sometimes 1 adjuster might be a bit differnt then the other. i think youll find this with differnt tracks as the runout/tolerance isnt perfect same as in race tires. And someone hit on how good the skid is square. You would be suprised to see how crooked they can be right in a brand new sled, if you loosen up the bolts they move around alot, you can even it all out and tighten the bolts back up to help.