Devilin AblueDress!
New member
Carbs are the hard part. You have to tear them apart. Parts should be stamped what size they are. If your not familar with internal carb parts read the carb cleaning write ups, you will need to clean carbs sooner or later and will help with the tearing apart to figure out what they are setup for. We would rather you ask 100 questions than burn up your sled over 1 question not asked.
Lineman735
New member
Appreciate all the help guys. I ordered a new air filter, a foam insert in the hood and the baffle plate that sits in the air box. I'm going to get a strip of plastic and over the holes that are drilled in the airbox. The plugs were black and wet in color, all 3 of them. Looks like it might be running rich. We got a couple of inches of snow last week so I had it around the yard, just to see how it would run, seemed to be very responsive, starts easy and idles perfect. I do all my own mechanical work so I should be able to take the carbs off and clean them out. Jetting though, seems intimidating, maybe the previous owner just did the air box work and never bothered with jetting... I hope
Lineman735
New member
Got the carbs out with the help of one of the write ups, made it easy, thanks to crewchief47. Only got to one of the carbs and it was spotless, nothing in the bowl at all. Pulled the main and pilot jets and they are stock, I'll try and get around to the other 2 tomorrow.
the holes were drilled into the airbox for the air mod that works mostly for high altitude ..very finicky for 2000 ft and under .thats probably why its blocked off ,.I did same thing to my sled .. just take off the top and duct tape the holes both sides of the top to block the holes the shelf was removed because those sleds run fat with stock jetting ..no big deal ( i have mine removed and run pipes!). Just keep an eye on your plugs and dont run er wide open for very long in under 0 degree temps! you should be good.
Lineman735
New member
Thanks, I got a strip of black plastic and covered the holes. I also ordered that baffle plate that was missing.Gonna pick up some carb cleaner tomorrow and clean out the carbs and re-assemble it on the weekend, hopefully I dont botch it up.
Lineman735
New member
Well I had the Vmax out for the first time today, put almost 90 km's on it, seems really fast even for the deep,powerdery conditions we had, sounds awesome,even had a couple of compliments on it's sound, Very impreesed with it overall I am. A few things need a little tweaking though, needs a new belt, the old one is sitting below the seconday sheaves, primary clutch surface needs to be cleaned. The brand new plugs indicate that it might be running a tad rich, seemed a bit wet and dark, not bad though. One thing had me a bit concerned was when leaving from a stop and making a slow, hard turn, either left or right, I'm feeling a bit of a skip or bump in the drivetrain, hard to explain exactly what it is, my Arctic Cat, from what I remember, would do this sometimes. Not sure if this is a belt issue or not. Tomorrow, with the hood/belt shroud up I might make a few turns in the yard to see if I can actually see anything happening.
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Devilin AblueDress!
New member
Not sure how familar you are with the clutches so just throwing this out there. On the back side of secondary theres 3 bolts that have an 8mm head on them. With an old belt there should be shims under the bolt. Effectively narrowing your secondary to get more life out of a belt. When you put a new belt on you may/should pull those shims out. DONT LOSE THEM. I use the tiny zip lock bags and put them in the tool box. If theres no shims you may want to get some and install them (common to see 2 per bolt). Might get some more life out of the belt you have.
Lineman735
New member
Thanks, I was reading up on belt deflection, I have a belt ordered, looks like I might order a few shims for when the new belt gets worn.