Coil Problem???

0

01 SRX

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Joined
Sep 29, 2012
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53
Location
Central Michigan
My 01 SRX is firing on all three cylinders at start up, then it drops the center cylinder. If you hit the kill switch and catch it right away before it stalls it fires on all three again for a short time only to drop the center cylinder again. You can do this repeatedly with the same result. It is kind of frustrating since I just got it running last week and it ran good. It makes me think that when I hit the kill switch and turn it back on that the coil pack gets recharged for a second. I am not an electrical genius, but I do know that it is only the center cylinder with the problem. Any suggestions? Or have any of you ran into this before? :o| :o| :o| :o| :o| :o|
 

I would take off the spark plug boot and do a resistance check, or swap the boots around off the wires and see if the problem moves to another cylinder.

you cant just move the boots you have to remove the boot from the wire and change out because all the plugs dont fire at 1 time on the newer srx like the o9ld ones did because of the 3d ign.
 
mrviper700 said:
I would take off the spark plug boot and do a resistance check, or swap the boots around off the wires and see if the problem moves to another cylinder.

you cant just move the boots you have to remove the boot from the wire and change out because all the plugs dont fire at 1 time on the newer srx like the o9ld ones did because of the 3d ign.
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A bad boot could cause this?
 
Did you clean the carbs this year?

I would start with the pilot jets. Could be partially plugged
 
01 SRX said:
I changed the boots from the center cylinder to the clutch side cylinder. No change. Thoughts???
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ok, then start up the sled at idle and take a rag wrap up your hand and gently grasp the sides of the boot, lift it up off the sparkplug about a 1/4-3/8" youll hear it zapping the top of the plug . see if it will continue to run, what your doing is giving the coil a longer saturation time and it will yield more power, if it continues to idle on all 3 then you have either a bad spark plug or the coil is going bad and cant keep up, usually though the coils just get weak and the sled will feel lazy.

Is the spark nice bright and blue on all 3 if you look at them with wires on grounded to the headbolts?
 
If you have a good heavy pair of gloves or a pair of plug boot pliers they work too.......I NEARLY PISSED MYSELF laughing at a buddy that got nailed using a rag!
 
I have a spark tester that I put in between each plug and wire. All three are firing. Not sure if the color is blue on the head bolts, but its a nice orange color with the tester. When I removed the wire and reinstalled it while running it made a change like when I hit the kill switch and had all three firing again. Coil?
 
01 SRX said:
I have a spark tester that I put in between each plug and wire. All three are firing. Not sure if the color is blue on the head bolts, but its a nice orange color with the tester. When I removed the wire and reinstalled it while running it made a change like when I hit the kill switch and had all three firing again. Coil?
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Did you move just the caps or the entire plugwire/cap combo? If you move the wire/cap/combo around and it follows it you have isolated it to 1 of the three.
 
I have isolated it to only the center cylinder with the problem. I changed the caps only from one wire to another. I did not change the coil from one cylinder to another. Only the center cylinder is not getting a good burn. The pipe stays cold to the touch too. Both the other pipes are hot in a short time. I am wondering if the coil may be bad. Seems like the logical choice.
 
01 SRX said:
I have isolated it to only the center cylinder with the problem. I changed the caps only from one wire to another. I did not change the coil from one cylinder to another. Only the center cylinder is not getting a good burn. The pipe stays cold to the touch too. Both the other pipes are hot in a short time. I am wondering if the coil may be bad. Seems like the logical choice.
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I would switch center to either mag or pto, If this way center has good burn and where ever you moved plug wire to doesnt the you have figured out whether its something funky with center cylinder (plug/carb..etc) or that it in coil,wire or cap you moved. You can move caps/wires around, dont need to tear coils apart to move them to different cylinder.
 
Are you saying that you can leave coils where they are and just swap wires to a different plug using the same coil? i.e. use center coil and wire and attach it to the clutch side, and use clutch side coil and wire and attach to center plug.
 
Retract my previous staement, was thinking 98-99, read the bottom portion of Mr Vipers post (#2 i think) you would need to actually move the whole deal.
 
mrviper700 said:
I would take off the spark plug boot and do a resistance check, or swap the boots around off the wires and see if the problem moves to another cylinder.

you cant just move the boots you have to remove the boot from the wire and change out because all the plugs dont fire at 1 time on the newer srx like the o9ld ones did because of the 3d ign.
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If what you're saying is true then why did he say what he did about the 3d ign? Not disrespecting, just trying to keep from gaining new problems. Rather ask alot then mess up bad.
 
Devilin AblueDress! said:
Retract my previous staement, was thinking 98-99, read the bottom portion of Mr Vipers post (#2 i think) you would need to actually move the whole deal.
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Looks like we came up with the same thought at the same time. I'll look at it more tomorrow. Thanks for the help.
 
so when you hold the cap off the plug end it will continue to run on all 3 cylinders?
 
Ok, so here is what I found tonight. 95psi on mag side, 100psi in the other two cylinders. Coils all firing nice blue spark even when missing. 3 new NGK plugs and still missing. If you shut it and turn it back on before it dies it fires on all 3 for a short time. I also put in 6 more gals of premium to what I put in the other day to make sure it wasn't a low fuel issue. Still doing it. Could it be a carb issue? I did clean them last week, but only inside the bowls. Took out both screws inside each bowl and made sure all was clear. What am I missing?
 
Could this be anything to do with the TORS carb switch? I noticed that it wasn't connected to the screw when I was putting things back together last night. I got it to go back together and tightened it down to the point that the nut hit the mounting bracket. Wasn't sure what this was last night, but just read in the tech pages how to clean it. It said to count the turns when removing it, so I'm guessing that there is an adjustment. would an out of adjustment issue cause this?
 
Numbers a lil on the low side (could be gauge or process) the hitting the kill swith bringing center cylinder back into firing makes me want to think electrical but nice blue spark makes me think maybe not. Any bodyknow if coils fire hotter when starting? Hitting kill swith and pulling it back up is just re-starting engine with the revs already in engine. Have you tried reving it up from the "missing"idle? If it clears up at mid throttle would suggest plugged pilot but I dodnt see how the kill switch would have anything to do with it re-firing center cylinder.
 
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