yamaha tuner dual runner skis

read up on them..seems there are a lot of negatives on them.Some like them and some don't.Google them and read..found interesting facts about them myself.
 
I have wondered about them also, but can't say I'm unhappy with my simmons skis. If I was to run something else I'd be tempted to try some ski-doo pilots, maybe the 6.9 version for flotation. Seems to be quite a bit of good feedback with these skis and there priced right!
 
I have run the arrow version for years on many sleds, loaned them out to many others who have then inturn bought them. They are a great trail ski, The only ski I own two sets of. The tuner is an even better copy of the arrow with a little longer keel and much lighter. They are also wider than the stock or arrows of old.
If your looking for these skis to grab in a corner in piles of snow, they are not for you, buy c&a or or triple threats, these will however make your sled handle normal trail conditions and icy condition with ease. for 250 retail for a set ready to bolt on, nothing else compares.

http://www.ty4stroke.com/viewtopic.php?t=109681&highlight=
 
Are you 100% back from last years injury BETHEVIPER? Good review.

Would it be hard to adapt them for the SRX? How do they compared to snowtrackers?
 
Havent used them yet. have never heard a bad word about them from anyone that uses them. im better than before the accident.
They will bolt right onto srx. you will need the longer bolts though. and shim correctly for your style.
 
I also heard a lot of positives. I know snotech says they were pretty fantastic, and they seem to be right on and not like amsnow and just advertising. I have found them to be pretty straightforward about things, so I would believe the review
 
This is from an 2013 Apex. So I need #11, #3, #12, #14. That's it? Just trying to get everything ahead of time. My sled is not near any dealers or stores.

90105-10070-00 BOLT, FLANGE $3.51 x2
8EX-F3754-00-00 COLLAR, 1 $6.44 x4
95602-10200-00 NUT, U FLANGE $1.30 x2
91490-20025-00 PIN, COTTER $0.95 x2

2z7idcg.jpg
 
Last edited:
Ok I just brought the tuner skis home. Already had the #3 collars on them.

I measured the Apex bolts at 6". Anyone can measure the SRX bolt? My sled is an hour away.

Unless Betheviper your sure the SRX bolt is shorter? Where I got the skis they said maybe not...

You say just the bolts but I need the nuts too? Or is it the same thread patern for all yamaha ski bolts?
 
Last edited:
Dual Tuner

The Dual tuner skis are awesome! They handle on a rail, no darting, and you can actually lighten up your front end or increase transfer and will handle much better then stock!
 
jaydaniels said:
Srx bolts are shorter and will not work however same bolt thread so the nut will work.
Click to expand...

Thanks jaydaniels for the confirmation. I'll call the dealer to see if its something he keeps in stock. Once he didn't even have slides in stock. Mostly a bike dealer... Going for a trip tomorrow so I wouldn't mind having them on.

seyfferb that is good news. Which sled of your do you have them on? Right now my sled feels already light on the front end. What I mean by that is since I change my suspension for a monoshock, as soon as I hit the throttle somewhat hard the front lifts up. I'm already at max ski pressure. Unless I make more holes in the strap underneath. I'll double check my transfer in the back but I think I'm close to the end.

To come back to my point is I hope this ski will help a bit. Right now I have stock ski with deuce bars. No darting at all but some push in corners. Sometimes when going straight I can purposely turn my steering and the sled keeps going straight. Its like if the snow packs under the deuce bars.
 
So I installed the dual runner yamaha skis. They mount a good 1" lower them the stock srx skis. So I did the shock bracket swap, grind and washer trick to gain back this 1". But since I have a monoshock suspension I was back like the beginning. Meaning my front could still be a bit higher cause the back of my track lifts a little of the ground. Oh well.

Just came back from a trip. Did 540km total. For sure the new skis are better then the deuce bars I had modified to fit the old skis. No more push and steering response is better.

Only problem is I rode my friend's Apex for a short while on the way back. He has it setup to ride like a cadilac and turn like a go kart. Was really nice. He has no ski lift at all. My srx feels twichy compared to him and allot more sport to ride fast. I think I try to make more holes in the suspension's strap. Get more ski pressure.
 
Last edited:
keep in mind what the rear skid is doing.
mono skids to a point do not change ski pressure by changing strap.

this is the issue. the skid uses two arms, balanced against one shock so front and rear arm pressures are a fixed proportion of the shared tension of the single spring. It was designed to go in a sled with a very heavy front end that was higher so the predetermined downward force is not really changeable without effecting the rear downward force. when you pull the limiter on these skids enough to take weight off the front end, your limiting your travel(way less drop out) and your increasing the rear arm pressure. neither is desireable.

one of many flaws of the mono is the transfer rod. It is enclosed, so it is hard to see where things are when your on the sled compared to most other coupling systems.

what you might be finding is that you have too much spring pressure, causing the sled to sit too high witch on this skid, also increases front arm pressure, lifting the front end. The other is the transfer rod may need to have a different spacer on the inside as with the lower front end and higher back, you might be reaching the end of travel before it couples when your on the sled. this is hard to tell as you can not see inside the rod.
the other question that comes to mind in regard to this front end, did you realign the front end after the flip? sorry if this sounds like a dumb question but sometime people forget that the front end of these sleds are crapy and the toe changes alot with any height change. if you did the flip and never changed anything else, your sled would now have more toe in than it did.
also, where is your ski carbide bias. these skis like to be neutral for best handling and ease of steering, a little rear biased will make them turn harder but still go straight. bias on the front will make them turn super easy and to much will make them try to continue turning when you have stopped input.

the only way I have found to check the rod settings inside the transfer rod on a mono is to unbolt one end, set on sled, then measure the travel it has from when the bolt is in to where it bottoms out.
 
One of my riding buddies looked into getting a set of these skis for his apex. Our local dealer confirmed he could put him in a set ready to ride for $250 but he said he couldn't get them because they are back ordered. So do you have to find a dealer that happens to have them in stock or is the info I received a bunch of BS. I 'm thinking of trying a set on the Viper too.
 
Thanks BETHEVIPER! That is allot of information to digest. I'll take a look. I nkow from ridding 20km of road that my carbide on the left ski is used in the back. Not in the front.

staggs65, Your dealer is correct. Back-ordered everywhere. I got mine used from a 4 stroke forum member. He got them last summer.
 
I may have missed the post but how are people liking these skis on vipers with un studded 1.25, 136, rip?? bolt and go or mods needed? 250$ with carbides seems fair....
 
would like to know that as well..can put some up her $320,but I also have found USI skis's in great shape with 8 inch carbides for $200 used..I have USI on one sled and love them.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top