stripped screw on carb


ive used a smaller vice grips. clamp in on real tight and turn it a little bit at a time until you can either remove it with your fingers or screw driver.
 
Can you get on it with a small pair of needle nose vise grips this usally works good, the last resort is always drill the head off then use vise grips.
 
X2 on the vice grips. I have found square jawed works best. Using the outter edge of jaw. Once it even starts to turn should come right out. If this doesnt work you can use a dremel (or similar) to cut a flat head into it and use a big ol flat tip screw driver. Alot of guys swap those screws out with an allen or hex head (stainless is best but $!) as this is an all to common ongoing problem!
 
Replace all of the carb float bowl screws with socket head cap screws and you will never have another problem removing them. The OEM float bowl screws are so dam soft!!! The screw size is 4 mm x 0.7 mm pitch x 12 mm long. You may be able to get them locally in a HW store or automotive store. Well worth the few dollars and time to get them.

Jim
 
Take a angle grinder and cut a slit in the screw head. thenuse
A flat head screw driver to take the screw out.
Worked great for me and I replaced it with an Allen head screw
 
Thanks for all the replies guys! gona try the vise grips, and then replace with new hex head screws....I love this site!
 
I used a small cutting wheel on my Dremel tool to make one slot for a flat tipped screw driver. Also pick up a small phillips impact. I use it everytime on any phillips screws like these. One little wack to break it loose and the phillips heads never get chewed up.
 
vise grips worked great! carbs were spotless inside! all jets and fuel screws were super clean. someone had the 148 carb with the fuel screw set at 1.5. the other (147.5 jets) fuel screws were set at 1.25. should they all be set the same. ive also seen on other threads to open them up to 2 turns out. should I leave em at stock settings? Just like the other carbs I've worked on. very simple.
 
Cooper0809 said:
vise grips worked great! carbs were spotless inside! all jets and fuel screws were super clean. someone had the 148 carb with the fuel screw set at 1.5. the other (147.5 jets) fuel screws were set at 1.25. should they all be set the same. ive also seen on other threads to open them up to 2 turns out. should I leave em at stock settings? Just like the other carbs I've worked on. very simple.
Click to expand...

Whats your wash (piston) look like? I run mine 1 5/8- 1 3/4 ish.
 
I suggest reading up on the carb info in the tech pages. Then come back to this thread and post what you see. The mains will generally be staggered, but you need to match them your setup. The piston wash along with the plugs will tell you how rich or lean each cylinder is running.
 
ok, so I read through it last night. came home and had a quick look at the top of the pistons. clutch side looks a little dark with what looks to be tiny little dents or dings on the top. about 10 in total. that was the carb with the 148 main jet, with the fuel screw set at 1 turn out...thought it was 1.5 turns. the other 2 look very similar, light grey around edges and darker grey in middle, with both fuel screws set at 1.25 turns out. all edges look good and the mains are 147.5 on those 2. when I had it running last, I remember taking the mag side and middle plug out, and they looked wet and brown/blackish in color. cant remember what the clutch side plug looked like. wiped em all clean and reinstalled. so right now they are clean and will remain clean until I can put everything back together. still waiting on PVs, PV cable, and gona take the carbs apart again and re-clean. So what does this sound like to you guys? the stock main jets are supposed to be (1) 147.5 and (2) 146.3. float height is around 12mm on all 3 so I didn't touch them. not sure how to tell the size of the pilot jets.
thanks guys! any help is much appreciated.
 
Search "wash". pick threw the threads and find pics of other pistons with description of wash (theres also a how to in tech section with pics but pics arent labeled, says number will appear when you put cursor on pics but didnt do this for me) Fuel screw may have ben turned in a bit due to the fatter jets. The size of pilot should be stamper on the side, may have to roll as you read it. KEY to "reading" plugs is to kill engine in the targeted area of carbs. To do this @ idle hit kill switch pull plugs, look good? To read plug at say mid throttle find a feild or back road you can cruise at mid throttle, Hit kill switch, once you stop pull plugs, Look good? To test WOT or higher throttle while cruising @ WOT hit kill switch, pull plugs, look good? Some say you can do this on a stand, I tend to think NO you cant. Unreliable results as your taking aerodynamics and 99% of the load off the engine on a stand. Older plugs easier to read than new. The other KEY is NOT to crash reaching with your left hand to hit kill switch, letting off throttle to hit it with right changes position of carbs and may change plug "reading"...sounds simple right?
 
should I change back to stock main jets or will the bigger ones be fine? I'll have to do some testing once the parts come in.
 
http://www.totallyamaha.com/snowmobiles/aaTECH/jetting.htm

^More detailed info^ Seems odd to me that 1 cylinder bumped up .5 and other 1.2? Some body that at least thought they knew what they were doing did this for a good reason or for no good reason at all? Thats where it up to you to figure it out! You love a mystery right? Per link above they recomend 1 size bigger across the board on mains.
 
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