01 SRX #1cylinder

N

Noobtosleddin

New member
Joined
Dec 18, 2012
Messages
19
Age
48
Location
Cold Lake, Alberta
Hello everyone, I am new to both the site and sledding as a recreation. I recently bought a 01 SRX700 that has 2800kms, before purchasing it I did a compression check and had 100 on #1 and 120 on #2&3. Figured I did the test cold(as in didn't run the engine to operating temp first). I drove the sled home approx 22kms. Ran strong and fast. Parked it about an hour later went to start it ( to show some friends) and it was "spitting" out the exhaust. Knowing I just did a compression check figured it was something minor. Few days go by took it for a ride still "spitting" ran strong but didn't feel as fast. Bring home decide to clean carbs.
Carbs were filthy, A lot of varnish in the bowls and greenish corrosion on the primary's. start the sled back up and started better, however stil "spitting".
I do another compression check and have "0" on #1 other 2 the same as before.
So I start tearing it apart and this is what I found.

Any ideas for me to ensure I don't do it again after rebuilding the engine again? I have a significant amount into it now after this and don't want to do it again.

I have done a lot of reading on this site GREAT site I appreciate all the info and tips.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    234.5 KB · Views: 7
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    86 KB · Views: 10
  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    92.7 KB · Views: 8

Ouch! My guess would be dirty carbs, your pilot jets were probably plugged.
Sent you a pm with a link to a guy who might have parts for you from Saskatchewan. Good luck!
 
There is a lot of metal damage on top of the piston. I would ensure to inspect the crankshaft with particular attention paid to the bottom rod bearings.

Once the crank is checked and found to be OK or repaired, new crank case end seals installed, and engine reassembled:
-ensure carbs are spottless and don't forget to check clean or disgard the "Top Hat " fuel filters under the needle and seats in carb bodies[often missed]
-jet carbs to 2001 Factory jetting chart adjusted for your riding altitude and temperature
-drain all old fuel from fuel tank and fill with good quality premium fuel
-drain old oil from oil tank and refill with good quality snowmobile oil

I suspect that dirty carbs and bad fuel are the route of your problems.
 
I agree 100% with Sideshow Bob. Looks like you damage was from preignition/detonation. I had the same thing hapen to my 00 SRX in only 20 miles of riding. Carb cleanliness is an absolute must on these engines along with using the highest octane gas you can find (plus an octane booster).

I strongly reccomend you disassemble the engine, and have the crankshaft checked. Inspect all the parts from the no. 1 cylinder. My "meldown event" took out the piston and rings (no big deal, the engine had 13000 miles on it and was due for a rebuild), the cylinder, the cylinder head and the connecting rod bearing on teh crankshaft. $650 in parts later, the engine was as good as new.

Don't cut corners, disassemble the engine, clean, inspect and measure every part. If you don't know how to inpesct and measure them, see if your dealer can. You can rely on the members of this site to provide tons of help and support. You'll want to make sure all teh parts are in top condition as you rebuild the engine or else you will be doing it again, sooner than you will want to.

Jim
 
BOTH THESE GUYS ARE RIGHT ON, NOT ONLY WAS THAT PISTON LEAN BUT LOOK AT DAMAGE TO TOP. THATS NOT JUST A LEAN BURN DOWN. WHERE ARE THOSE PIECES THAT DID THAT ? BOTTOM OF YOUR CASE THATS WHERE. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
Post pictures of the cylinder head and the cylinder wall. You can find good deals on the parts you will need to rbuild it here on the site. These engines are not too difficult to work on and repair, not a lot of special tools needed. You'll need to get a set of gaskets and seals.....use ONLY OEM Yamaha parts.
 
X2 on all the above info,Just wanted to add the info that I would bet this process was already on its way, considering that cylinder already down 20 lbs less than the others. Cant say for sure either way. Piston wash is HUGELY important. I bought a special flashlight just for this. Has a bendy neck with a head small enough to fit threw the plug hole for a real good look at the top of the piston. I take it with me to look at any and all possible additons to the fleet!
 
ouch, expensive lesson to learn. carbs need to be clean before riding these sleds. they have tiny pilot circuits. Also never continue to ride the sled when you know somethings not right, as in "spitting out exhaust". welcome to the site.
 
Thanks everyone for your reply's and input. I trust you guys and this site immensely after just a little while reviewing the details of the site and feed back.

Quick question does anyone have or know a good spot where I can get a good cylinder and head? As well a good place to get genuine Yamaha parts. My local dealer seems to be gauging me, over 700 just for pistons seals and wrist pin bearing and clips. Or am I wrong and that's the norm? I'd like to have this beast back together again within a month

I tried to post more pics but the size limit can't be meet without cropping to much
 
Port Yamaha, a sponsor of this site, is a terrific place to get parts from. They have good prices and very fast and friendly service.

I am sure there is a member of this site who has a cylinder head for sale.

We need to see pics of the cylinder wall to tell you if the cylinder needs to be replaced. Probably needs to be replaced due to the damage seen on the piston but pics will allow the folks on the site to guide you.

If you do need a cylinder, in my opinion, the best way to go is to get a replacement from a place like US Chrome or Millenium. They offer an exchange program, as long as the cylinder has not been modified, you send them your damaged cylinder and for a fee they send you a replated cylinder.

Keep the info. coming.

Jim
 
I'd love to give the rest of the pics I have but like I said the size limit restricts me. Is there a way to get them to fit the size requirements that I don't know of? I've cropped the ones I did post and they barely made it.
 
If you have a photo bucket or similar account you can copy and paste the link to album or if you take a video and put it on youtube and copy and paste link as well. As far as parts I would suggest getting good used (similar to other 2 cylinders) replacement parts, save some $ and go over your driveline/skid bearings. Give a good looking over on the W arm in your skid (if stock) another weak link known for cracking. WHAT EVER you do dont mix/match OEM and aftermarket internal parts. Should have a pretty good response to a thread in the "wanted" section, or look in the parts for sale section.
 
I'll try and take them with my phone maybe the resolution will be less.
I took the others with an iPad. ( didn't think they would be that high of resolution)
I don't have a photobucket
, but I'll look into it
 
image_zpsf4df9931.jpg.html


I tried let's see if it worked
 
Last edited:
I have a further question.
I've been referred to ensure my top hat filters were clean, I cleaned the carbs as per the tech side and a friend who has done it before. But now I want to know what the top hat filters are? Or even better a pic
 
^X2^! The one and ONLY time I skipped this step the results where center cylinder meltdown on girlfreinds red head 700. Upon further investigation (cleaning carbs the right way) I found the rubber tip of the needle had STUCK rather hard to seat. Actually ripped the tip off when I pulled needle out.
 
I definitely DID NOT clean those. I will before putting it back together though.
I have to re jet it for 01 specs. It had 147.5 and 2 146.3's

Sideshowbob you said earlier to disgard them. (Throw them out?)
Or is it better to just clean them?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top