1980 SRX 440 P85 Polaris Clutch

S

silverrocket

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Apr 12, 2009
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Age
63
Location
Quebec, Canada
Can someone tell me if a Polaris P85 #1321576 or #1321512 has the right tapper for the 1980 engine. If not I would like to have a part number or model number that will fit. The reason I am asking is I would like to run the Polaris clutch on my mod engine with Aeen race pipes.

Thank you

Richard
 
silverrocket said:
Can someone tell me if a Polaris P85 #1321576 or #1321512 has the right tapper for the 1980 engine. If not I would like to have a part number or model number that will fit. The reason I am asking is I would like to run the Polaris clutch on my mod engine with Aeen race pipes.

Thank you

Richard
Click to expand...

Richard

I'm just getting started with this old Yami stiff and I would like to know the answer too. From what I can tell, from looking over several threads, the P-85 will work on our old SRX motors. You should shoot for a 39-41 gram weight and a primary spring with about 175# initial rate and 300# finishing rate.

Of the two clutches you mention, either one of them should work. Both have the same taper. I would use the 1321576. It came off a 93-95 440 and 500EFI. Those motors made slightly less HP than your SRX but were close @ 80-82 HP. They had a lower operating RPM so you will need lighter weights and a heavier spring to get your motor up into the proper operating RPM.

Maybe we can generate some interest in your thread and get some solid answers about using a P-85 clutch in our old SRX's.

Tom
 
yes you can but there are other issues that arise like the secondary is not designed to run the wide polaris belt and you will need to have the helix cut to allow full shift the belt to use in this application is either a 89L or 87X yamaha belt from the phazer II or vmax from 94-96 when i have more time i will get into details
 
Yamaha Nutz said:
yes you can but there are other issues that arise like the secondary is not designed to run the wide polaris belt and you will need to have the helix cut to allow full shift the belt to use in this application is either a 89L or 87X yamaha belt from the phazer II or vmax from 94-96 when i have more time i will get into details
Click to expand...


Oh perfect YNutz.

Wonder if an old P85 can be shimmed narrow enough to use a stockish width belt with a stockish secondary?

The stock C to C for the SRX clutches is about 10.7". 10.625" is a popular Polaris CtoC for a P85-Team combo. Belts are all over.

Wonder if a splined Team or Polaris button clutch would fit. The Yamaha clutch floats. Offset is simple. CtoC is good. Splines may be a challenge.


Then it all comes back to how much weight we're spinning with a P85 and Polaris secondary set up compared to the stock SRX clutches. I will weigh each and see how much diff we are looking at. Might be easier to just focus on the yamaha parts.

I have a 108C too but I would just as soon set the P85 up instead of the comet.

Opinions???
 
GP292Racer said:
The simple solution for the P85 is to put a quick adjuster on the outside of the clutch. Wahl sells one, it basically allows you to push the moveable sheave in to get the belt clearance you desire. Spring and weight accordingly..

http://www.wahlracing.com/product.php?productid=20080&cat=256&page=2&click=srclick

I run a P85 with OEM Yamaha belt.
Click to expand...
that also changes the tuck of your weights and is not ideal for most who do not have the understanding of clutching like some of us .......i will get pics up with explainations tomorrow i hope had a bad slip and fall today on some ice at the shop if i can move better tomorrow i will explain more
 
AKSRXPilot said:
Richard

I'm just getting started with this old Yami stiff and I would like to know the answer too. From what I can tell, from looking over several threads, the P-85 will work on our old SRX motors. You should shoot for a 39-41 gram weight and a primary spring with about 175# initial rate and 300# finishing rate.

Of the two clutches you mention, either one of them should work. Both have the same taper. I would use the 1321576. It came off a 93-95 440 and 500EFI. Those motors made slightly less HP than your SRX but were close @ 80-82 HP. They had a lower operating RPM so you will need lighter weights and a heavier spring to get your motor up into the proper operating RPM.

Maybe we can generate some interest in your thread and get some solid answers about using a P-85 clutch in our old SRX's.

Tom
Click to expand...

I ordered a 1321576 which is for the 1985 to 2000 models. I will buy the Driven conversion kit from Delaughter racing and run a Poaris driven also. I just finished installing the race pipes with the Comet Clutch using the Polaris 10MR weights at 39 grams. Now reving at 10,200 on the stand. Need to test on snow and figure out the jetting also. I am going to make another set for the nitrous. I hope she will hold together.
 
silverrocket said:
I ordered a 1321576 which is for the 1985 to 2000 models. I will buy the Driven conversion kit from Delaughter racing and run a Poaris driven also. I just finished installing the race pipes with the Comet Clutch using the Polaris 10MR weights at 39 grams. Now reving at 10,200 on the stand. Need to test on snow and figure out the jetting also. I am going to make another set for the nitrous. I hope she will hold together.
Click to expand...

get the conversion jack shaft from micro belmont that is where delaughter gets them from anyhow plus it will be cheaper
 
AKSRXPilot said:
Richard

I'm just getting started with this old Yami stiff and I would like to know the answer too. From what I can tell, from looking over several threads, the P-85 will work on our old SRX motors. You should shoot for a 39-41 gram weight and a primary spring with about 175# initial rate and 300# finishing rate.

Of the two clutches you mention, either one of them should work. Both have the same taper. I would use the 1321576. It came off a 93-95 440 and 500EFI. Those motors made slightly less HP than your SRX but were close @ 80-82 HP. They had a lower operating RPM so you will need lighter weights and a heavier spring to get your motor up into the proper operating RPM.

Maybe we can generate some interest in your thread and get some solid answers about using a P-85 clutch in our old SRX's.

Tom
Click to expand...

The 1321576 is on its way. I don't think I will run it this year. I am going to keep the Comet and yamaha driven for now. I don't know how much H.P. I have SSR cylinders, 76 heads,42mm carbs, aeen race pipes. I would guess around 110 H.P. I will have it dynoed when I am done with the clutching and jetting.
 
JUST ANOTHER THING TO SHOOT HERE MAYBE NOTHING BUT MAKE SURE THE P-85 FITS. I MEAN THE SIZE OF IT CLEARS YOUR SKI TIE RODS. ALSO YOUR CLUTCH GUARD. I NEVER USED ONE SO I CAN,T HELP TUNEING, BUT DO REMEMBER THEIR FOR A OVERDRIVE SECONDARY. 3:16 (yammie tony)
 
So I am booting this back TTT to get some more info and interest in the Polaris clutching in an old SRX. From what I can tell it seems the P85 works. With proper weights and springs it can be tuned to work pretty good on the SRX. the issue becomes belt width and the fact that the Yamaha secondary requires a much narrower belt than the Polaris primary.

What about the Micro Belmont conversion jack shaft and a Polaris secondary. Like a Team secondary from a ProX or something. Those secondaries are dime a dozen these days and they are super easy to tune. the Polaris Button secondary has a little better shift out and top speed but the team back shifts much better and will likely work good coming out of corners and such.

Does anyone here have any experience running the Polaris secondary on these Old Yamaha's, SRX's specifically? I searched the forum using many different search words and came up kinda empty handed.


.
 
try some P1 weights 38 grms or some A3's 38-40 grms. put high engament orange spring from wahl. good to go. flat spot or mill where tip of weight sits down 80 thousanths and engagment will sit around 7000 for drag racing or what ever your looking to do
 
cut your helix like yamaha nutz said and put a 5mm spacer in back of helix before you put on the snap ring. run like a straight 45 helix. also space out the center of the secondary with like two secondary clutch spacers so you can fit the wide belt. works great !!
 
bojisrx said:
cut your helix like yamaha nutz said and put a 5mm spacer in back of helix before you put on the snap ring. run like a straight 45 helix. also space out the center of the secondary with like two secondary clutch spacers so you can fit the wide belt. works great !!
Click to expand...


Can you explain exactly where we are cutting the helix to a newbie
 
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