Just can't win!!!

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exhaust side
 
thats something i havnt thought of. havnt pulled carbs yet but did have motor out last year to get steering stem out . put new lines oil and fuel lines on. wonder if something came off or what.
 
The wrist pin is typically a real pain to remove after a lean burndown/detonation event. Use a wrist pin puller or make one using a bolt that will fit through the wrist pin hole in the piston but will grab the wrist pin. Put a socket on the other end of the both that had an ID bigger than the wrist pin. Whatever you do, DO NOT apply any lateral force on teh connecting rod. I have seen some people try to get the wrist pin out using a hammer and punch which will damage the connecting rod and crank.

Another item to be aware of is the octane rating/age and overall quality of the gas. Carb cleaning is generally blamed for a lean/burndown condition but I have seen engines with perfectly clean carbs have the same problem. There is no way to ensure you are getting fresh as of the right octane value but you need to consider the source of the gas. I think at least some ofthe engine burndowns are the result of low octane or stale gas.

Jim
 
Agree with PTO=ok and center=lean, Scetchy about cylinder "honing out" Hard to tell in pictures if marks are IN the cylinderor material transfers from piston. Head gasket mod further stresses the point of clean carbs/fresh premium fuel. If crank and bearings are OK I would put a good used cylinder/piston on it.
 
had just put in 5 gal of fresh 91 octane from our fine local indian reservation. also had ethanol treatment in it. gas in tank was fresh a couple wks ago also treated.
 
think im going to go witth a new piston rings pin and rod bearing. take cylinder to dealer and see what he thinks. used to work their and know the mechanics well. give me staight up answer. anyone got a cylinder just in case??? got two local places i want to check first but let me know. when i put back together gonna take just one layer out. what i didon my last sx and seem to be fine. but gas was better then to
 
I have seen that kind of piston damage on my buddies 98 SRX 6 years ago.
The sled was being trail ridden in warm weather conditions and centre cylinder seized and looked exactly like this.

We never did find the exact cause but we deducted that over heating and possibly bad fuel and/or lack of adequate oil supply was the culprit.
We richened up the oil pump slightly, cleaned carbs and rebuilt and He has since put on over 5000 miles with no issues.

Things to check:
-ensure good fuel...just because you just got it doesn't mean it is up to the quality required...I filled my 6 cylinder honda CBX bike up last year at a name brand station and barely made it home because the fuel was so bad...probably right after tanks were filled
-check for air leaks
-clean carbs and ensure needle clips are in stock position...also check/clean or disgard top hat fuel screens under float needle/seat
-check that oil pump/water pump shaft is turning properly...not uncommon for crank drive gear[its brass] to strip then you get sparatic rotation[at best] of water pump and oil pump...obviously NOT GOOD!
I always monitor oil useage visually in tank during and after rides to ensure the sled is actually using oil...I like at least one quart of oil used/per tank.
-check all oil pump lines
-check for air leaks
-always run with an airbox

Just some ideas...

Bob
 
I strongly suggest to stay away from using oven cleaner to clean any aluminum parts (cylinders, heads, power valves). Oven cleaner dissolves aluminum pretty quickly. Sure, it will remove the aluminum deposits on the Nicasil on the cylinder walls but it will also dissolve the aluminum under the Nicasil. The cleaner will make its way through the pinholes in the nicasil (the nicasil is an electroplated layer and there are always pinholes, tiny defects in plated layers) it will undercut the aluminum cylider wall. You are far better off using a hone with honing oil or a sctchbrite pad or ball to remove the aluminum and carbon deposits. Using oven cleaner on any aluminum part is a bad idea which wil lead to damage. Just my opinion...........

You'll need to clean up the cylinder to determine if the nicasil layer is damaged or not. As long as teh cylinder is not ported, you can exchange it for a replated one at US Chrome or Millenium. There are probably members here who have them for sale also.

Jim
 
Lack of oil would be at the top of my list. How far had you ridden it? When you put new oil hoses on, the system should have been bled.
Remove the oil pump and check the shaft for wear.
 
would like to say a big thankyou to a site sponsor full power performance. Hooked me up with a used jug piston. Now if I could shake this damn flu i got i can put back together. Consensus from dealer and and full power was lack of oil. so need to figure that out.
 
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think I found out why she blew up. Went to pull carbs and found thehose shown here dissconnected. Goes from oil pump to fuel pump. So we were not getting that oh so important oil fuel mix to cylinders. Carbs were clean as a whistle. Glad it is something simple but at same time feel like a dumbass. woking on getting her back together. First day in three that i have felt like doing anyhing cause of flu. Hope to have her operational tomorrow. Know these check valves are supposed to have arrows for oil flowage. hard to see arrow anymore. just want to know i have them on the right way. Im assuming i should be able to blow air one way but not the other. would that be accurate???
 
yami1 said:
Thanks stagg sorry for the wrong area. So been doing some research and want some opinions. Again havent got inside this motor yet but thinking if its apart maybe should change all three pistons and rings. Im usually a oem guy also but see the wiseco kit comes with everything for a decent price. Anyone out there use them and have any opinions.
Click to expand...
I have had Wiseco Pistons in my 600 twin for 5 years and no issues. Great Product.
 
Make sure you use the OEM hose clamps on the oil and gas lines. If you find the oil line pushes on (and off) too easily, trim off the old section of hose that went onto the barb fitting and start with a "fresh" section. You want to make sure the hoses are difficult to remove by pulling on them.

Jim
 
Well back together and ready to ride again. Just a FYI for you guys who changed ur fuel lines or are going to. Make sure the check valves are on the right way. Mine was not and I think it built up some pressure and why the line was separated. Anyway resulted in a cooked piston. On correct way now and can see oil flowing nicely into fuel pump. Give her a try tonight and rip around a bit. Supposed to warm up so gonna try and go all weekend. Thanks to the ty'ers who helped me out appreciate it and to full power performance for the screaming deal on parts. Good bunch of dudes their.
 
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