brake pad replacement

Cooper0809

Cooper0809

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Joined
Nov 4, 2012
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Fergus, Ontario
it says in the manual to attach a suitable hose to bleed screw and depress calipers. is there a way to replace without having to do this. I got one pad in, its the other side that's a pita. any tips or advise is much appreciated. im about to pull out my hair!
thanks, jeff
 
you'll have to bleed in order to compress calipers. Did both my sleds last year.Good luck trying to push the pads open enough to get over rotor.There is pressure in the line.Good luck with it.There is an easy way and a hard way..I prefer the easir way even iif it is more work..less swearing for me anyways..
 
as long as the pads aren't to tight up against the rotor..shim only if there is play, but with new pads they might not re required.You'll have to see if the pads will pass over the rotor easily.
 
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I believe the outside shim should be there because it has the top and bottom tangs that kinda grip the back of the pad to keep it in place...I think that one should be there. but im new to this so maybe its ok to run with no shims, idk. there not too tight, im sure a few runs will loosen them up a bit.
 
If you don't loosen bleeder and open the caliper all the way up then rebleed after you install the pads you run the risk of having the pads too tight. It might seem "lose enough" cold, but when you run it and the brakes heat up they will start to drag. That will cause more heat and expansion. It will continue til it locks up or atleast overheat your clutch, burns belt etc.. I always crack the bleeder and depress the pistons in the calpier, then rebleed after pads are on. It really doesn't take that long.
 
gil7247 said:
If you don't loosen bleeder and open the caliper all the way up then rebleed after you install the pads you run the risk of having the pads too tight. It might seem "lose enough" cold, but when you run it and the brakes heat up they will start to drag. That will cause more heat and expansion. It will continue til it locks up or atleast overheat your clutch, burns belt etc.. I always crack the bleeder and depress the pistons in the calpier, then rebleed after pads are on. It really doesn't take that long.
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makes all the sense. so how do I go about doing this? take pads back out, then hook up a hose to one or both bleeders? open bleeder, depress caliper, close bleeder/s, put pads back on with both shims, then what? re-bleed how?
 
don't you have a manual to look it.Once pads are back in and everything back in place,attach hose to bleeders to a container.hold brake lever tight and open bleeders and watch for air.Lever will drop down and you tighten up. bleeders.Then squeeze handle tight and bleed again..do over and over until you see a steady stream and lever is starting to feel stiffer.MAKE SURE you check that the brake fluid in the resovoir doesn't get to low or you will push in air..keep this up and the lever will feel harder to squeeze and all your air is gone and should work.
 
well, I did it all wrong. I now have one piston all the way out and it wont go back in, think a got a vapor lock or something. what should I do now?
 
I would remove the caliper and old pads. Before you loosen the bleeders and push the pisons back in, shine a light on the pistons themselves and check their condition. If the exposed surface is heavily rusted or pitted they will need to be cleaned up before you shove them back into the caliper bores. Assuming they're okay (they probably are) Loosen the bleeders with a hose on each going into a waste bottle and push the pistons back in the bores.Close the bleeders and install new pads. Replace caliper on the mounts and top off you brake fluid and replace the cap on the master cylinder. Pump brakes several time until they are hard. Then while holding pressure on the brake lever open each bleeder just enough so the fluid comes out. Tighten the bleeders before you release the brake lever. Repeat this until no air bubble come out of the bleeders. (Probably two or 3 time will be enough) Top off the fluid each time and a final time after you are done. I hope this helps. If you simply push the pads back and the fluid is full in the master cylinder it has no where to go and will put pressure on the pads making them drag. That's why the fill line on a master cylinder isn't all the way to the top. Brake fluid expands when it gets hot and need somewhere to go or it will push the pads out.
 
You may be okay the fluid just went from one bore to the other when you tried to push them back. Make sure the bleeders are open and use your old pads to pry against so both pistons are ushed back at the same time.
 
well I ended up sayin F it and takin the caliper and hose right off the sled. well wouldn't ya know as soon as I did that I saw the problem. the piston was cocked on an angle from me tryin to close it on the edge of it. so I pressed the opposite site of the piston and wala! So get it all back together only to find out both shims wont fit with aftermarket brake pads even with both calipers all the way in. So I did all this :o| #$%&* :o| #$%&* for nothing! Well, definitely learned my lesson and also learned aftermarket pads must be thicker :dunno: , because theres no way im getting both shims behind the pad. Maybe once they wear out a bit i'll put them in. Anyways, thanks for the help guys!
 
I ordered my brake pads from Royal Distributing in Ontario..you neck of the woods.Where did you get yours from..mine all went back in..but I don't remember to much about the shims..maybe you don't need to use them.. :dunno:
 
well I always forget about checking royal d first as the yami dealer is on my way home so I just stop in because its convenient. they wanted $50 for oem pads, $40 for aftermarket. royal d has them for $31 :o| . royal is usually always cheaper, but its out of my way. I normally go if I have a list of things to get. I did put the outside shims back on, but not the inside ones. i'd like to find out if I really do need them. but I think once the pads wear a bit there should be more room for them.
 
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