recoil???

Cooper0809

Cooper0809

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Joined
Nov 4, 2012
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Fergus, Ontario
I've been reading a few threads on hard starting due to many reasons. One being rust on the flywheel I think. Anyways, you can look through the little hole and see rust on whatever it is. just trying to get the kinks outta this sled while I wait for parts. Is it just the bolts on the outside of the recoil casing I have to remove to get at this?
 
yup, 6-7 ten mm bolts, couple of them towards the bottom are a PITA to get to and I always us a 1/4 inch drive deep well socket on the top one as your sub frame connector brace wont let a 3/8 drive socket in there
 
Cooper0809 said:
so im able to just take the cover off and put it back on when im finished? or is there anything I need to know?
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Yup...its that simple. 1 bolt should have a tin strap securing coolant hose. Obviously the rectraction action will want to pull housing rear ward a bit, no biggie. When you pull the housing you will be looking at the flywheel/pick up coil/ recoil ring. Recoil ring hel on by 3 fastners, if you remove this put back on with blue loctite on threads of fastners. Just like any other recoil when you tug on rope jaws open and grab that ring. Shouldnt be any kind of "jack in the box" clown jumping out provided everything is OK now.
 
Devilin AblueDress! said:
Yup...its that simple. 1 bolt should have a tin strap securing coolant hose. Obviously the rectraction action will want to pull housing rear ward a bit, no biggie. When you pull the housing you will be looking at the flywheel/pick up coil/ recoil ring. Recoil ring hel on by 3 fastners, if you remove this put back on with blue loctite on threads of fastners. Just like any other recoil when you tug on rope jaws open and grab that ring. Shouldnt be any kind of "jack in the box" clown jumping out provided everything is OK now.
Click to expand...

Awesome, i'll let ya know how it goes.
 
AmatoSRX showed me a neat trick. He notched the subframe connector where the one bolt is the closest to it. He said it made shop and trailside removal way easier!
 
J_hubbs said:
AmatoSRX showed me a neat trick. He notched the subframe connector where the one bolt is the closest to it. He said it made shop and trailside removal way easier!
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WELL...thats a HORRIBLE idea...to spend a minute to save yourself the hassle of working around it for the rest of the sleds life......Wonder why the "engineers" didnt think of this!......I am joking of course!
 
Devilin AblueDress! said:
WELL...thats a HORRIBLE idea...to spend a minute to save yourself the hassle of working around it for the rest of the sleds life......Wonder why the "engineers" didnt think of this!......I am joking of course!
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ya it makes ya wonder about engineers sometimes, the one bolt on the top is definitely going to be a pita. even with a 1/4 drive I think the bolt is gona hit the sub-frame half way threaded out.
 
Mark it with a sharpie, then when you take out the connector you can file a half circle in that spot. Next time it will be a breeze! ;)!
 
Or you could take it off...like the yammie engineers planned on us doing. I think the first time I did it I took the top bolts out and loosened the side bolts to get a lil more room. If you have a dremel or similar you could notch it with it in place.....so long as you have a steady hand!
 
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