Need expert advice on burn down

mrviper700 said:
from reading this thread and looking at the pic its obviously a lean burn down, and contributing to the fact you used 87 octane in a piped viper with stock head is most likely why it went down. The mag and center cylinders have more compression then a srx does, add in the mag cylinder gets the worst cooling from the stock head and then added ignition timing and you have a sure result for detonation with low octane fuel. The slp jetting specs are good for the pilot and mains but the needles need to be raised up for todays lousy gas quality. The needles and nozzles are also leaner in a viper then a srx so thats why they go down more often, too many cards not in thier favor.

If you look or post pics of the other piston tops it will likely be eveident of detonation on the center cylinder as well, the pto survives more often because it has a lower compression ratio so it runs a bit cooler.
Really the srx base gasket will not make and wouldnt have saved you in this instance. the only differance is the holes for the coolant are slightly bigger for 2 of the cylinders but it really doesnt make the sled cool another 10 degrees or anything.

if you have smeared aluminum on the cylinder you can use muratic acid to eat it off, it wont hurt the plating, just will eat off the aluminum, use it outdoors and wear a mask ,nasty vapors off it. You can then hone the cylinder if the plating is not messed up and reuse the cylinder. just depends on how bad its damaged from the burn down.
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I have a question on using the muriatic acid to move the aluminum deposits on the cylinder wall. Do you dilute that acid with any water before applying it to the smeared aluminum deposits. Can I use it on the head as well to clear off the deposits on it from the piston?

Thanks.
 
No need to dilute the acid and for the heads you can try it but my guess is u
have divots from stuff bouncing off the head which the acid will do nothing for.
 
dcfjef said:
I have a question on using the muriatic acid to move the aluminum deposits on the cylinder wall. Do you dilute that acid with any water before applying it to the smeared aluminum deposits. Can I use it on the head as well to clear off the deposits on it from the piston?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Most muratic acid available retail is only 3-5% already (or somewhere there abouts) so no need to dilute. Make sure you rinse well when done.

Do not use it on the cylinder head. It will attack the aluminum. You may try chipping off any of the piston deposits or sand down any nicks/burs but keep in mind any sharp edged nick may invite preignition.
 
Carefull with the Acid

Easy on the Acid. Spread newspaper. Protect your eyes. Also don't contaminate the Acid container. Pour half a fluid once of acid into a separate container. Then use a Q-tip. Carefully rub the Q-tip on the aluminum to be removed. Don't drip any on any other part of the cylinder. You will notice it begins to bubble and smoke as fumes are release like Mr Viper said. Don't breath the fumes. Go slowly. ---Mac---
 
Same thing happened to me at the end of season 2011. My piston looked identical unfortunately.

http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=82591

amw0nr.jpg
 
Mac said:
Easy on the Acid. Spread newspaper. Protect your eyes. Also don't contaminate the Acid container. Pour half a fluid once of acid into a separate container. Then use a Q-tip. Carefully rub the Q-tip on the aluminum to be removed. Don't drip any on any other part of the cylinder. You will notice it begins to bubble and smoke as fumes are release like Mr Viper said. Don't breath the fumes. Go slowly. ---Mac---
Click to expand...

Can I use the muriatic acid inside where the power valve goes to clean any crud out of there as well?
 
dcfjef said:
I have a question on using the muriatic acid to move the aluminum deposits on the cylinder wall. Do you dilute that acid with any water before applying it to the smeared aluminum deposits. Can I use it on the head as well to clear off the deposits on it from the piston?

Thanks.
Click to expand...

Post a pic of the head. If its pitted then don't reuse it.

dcfjef said:
Can I use the muriatic acid inside where the power valve goes to clean any crud out of there as well?
Click to expand...

Take the valve apart and clean the housing with degreaser and pressure washer. I can't see any good coming from dumping acid in the powervalve.
 
Here is the best picture I can get of the head. What is the best way to clean this?
 

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dcfjef said:
Here is the best picture I can get of the head. What is the best way to clean this?
Click to expand...

1st try a razor blade scraper, it might come off in 1 pc, usually cant stick that good because of the oil film from inside the chamber. If that doesnt take it off, use a flapper wheel on a die grinder and carefully remove it. a dremel will also work but not everyone has one, you can get a flapper wheel at any hardware store, just take your time.
 
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