Why can't you use bolts and nuts with the stock weights? I know they have no threads, but you find a bolt with the least amount of clearance, that you still can push through the colt and screw on the nut on the other side? I know there will be a little clearanse that the bolt could rattle in, but just fill that with thread locker and tighten real good? Just watch that the bolt/nut will not touch the clutch pockets.
Another thing I don't get, is that why people have such steep helixes on their sled? I just read FJvipers post about a 53/43 helix on a viper? Come on, it's a 120 hp sled (or is it piped?). That sounds more suited for a ported srx (depending of the weights) if you ask me. Is it the stock weights that are way too light even with the heaviest rivets, so people have to compensate them with such steep helixes?
For better belt grip, wouldn't it be better to have a tad heavier weights and not a not so steep helix or am I wrong? Yes, I am aware that it works like a recipe and you have to look at the total package, but still.
thanks
Another thing I don't get, is that why people have such steep helixes on their sled? I just read FJvipers post about a 53/43 helix on a viper? Come on, it's a 120 hp sled (or is it piped?). That sounds more suited for a ported srx (depending of the weights) if you ask me. Is it the stock weights that are way too light even with the heaviest rivets, so people have to compensate them with such steep helixes?
For better belt grip, wouldn't it be better to have a tad heavier weights and not a not so steep helix or am I wrong? Yes, I am aware that it works like a recipe and you have to look at the total package, but still.
thanks
Last edited:
goody_700
New member
On my weights, I used a short stainless 10mm bolt (head size 5/16") with washers and locknut to add weight to my weights, bolt was just long enough to go through the weight and get a full nut of threads on the other side. Worked well for me to get my rpms down where they should be and sled pulls harder as well.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
replacing rivets is a pain in the butt.I even tried to thread one hole of some weights,just couldn't get the tap to start anyway.The steel on the weights is tough material.Wish someone here could take a pic of their bolts and nuts that they are using instead of the rivets.Would need a thin head and of course thin nuts that lock as well.Curious as well to use them....
I'm running Supertip weights in my Apex Mtn. Those work nice because I can just add or take away washers for weight.
I have used regular hex head bolts before,I've have to thin the head down a bit for clearance but they work fine.Machine head bolts tend to be a little thinner head.