nelsonhouse
Member
Hello everyone.
i am going to be tuning my clutches this weekend. I have a heel clicker kit with the red spring installed
weights are for stock set-up. But i have installed psi stockblaster triple pipes, vforce reed cages, modified the air box, 21/40 gearing, the helix is 51-43 with green spring, not sure what secondary spring preload numbers its on. Probably change it if i have to.
I am going to try out MrViper700 tips on h/c weights for piped sleds.
5.) Moving onto the piped sleds, sxr, viper, etc sleds that run over 8600rpms, I am talking in the neighborhood of 8800-9100rpm, and this pretty much covers all the pipes out there. You want to run as much heel weight as the motor will pull without bogging it down, then you will use a slight amount of weight in the CENTER hole, and leaving the TIP empty. The reason is this, when its piped its has a narrower torque/power band most of the time and when its shifted hard it has a hard time to recover before being brought down back into the meat of the power curve. Its allot like ripping a std shift 5.0 mustang, you side step the clutch at 6000rpm, and the tires are burning, you keep the gas mashed and then you shift to 2nd, car is starting to move out very quickly, then you shift to 5th, the motor will bog and just make noise, has no real pull to it, takes a long time and distance to recover from the over shift. When you have pipes on a sled, this becomes more evident.
I do not know the shift speed of these pipes. But I'm going try for 9000 rpm and see what happens.
The engagement is currently about 5200 rpm stock. It was installed last winter by someone else before the mods. The kit also came with a grey spring whats the pupose of this spring?
I'll be testing on a lake, snow hard pack on off trail. Running a kimpex shotgun track 121 x 15 x 1.25.
xc xtra-10 rear skid. 9 tooth drivers. Elevation is 800 feet.
carb jetting
pilot 45, fuel screw 2 1/2, slide 3.5, nozzle q-8/q-4/q-4, needle 6dgm-05 3rd/4th/4th pos
main jet 143.8/143.8/143.8 pto/mid/mag. The weather is about -18 to -30 this time of year.
The jetting is ok but i am keeping a close eye on it.
What do the good people of totallyamaha recommend?
i am going to be tuning my clutches this weekend. I have a heel clicker kit with the red spring installed
weights are for stock set-up. But i have installed psi stockblaster triple pipes, vforce reed cages, modified the air box, 21/40 gearing, the helix is 51-43 with green spring, not sure what secondary spring preload numbers its on. Probably change it if i have to.
I am going to try out MrViper700 tips on h/c weights for piped sleds.
5.) Moving onto the piped sleds, sxr, viper, etc sleds that run over 8600rpms, I am talking in the neighborhood of 8800-9100rpm, and this pretty much covers all the pipes out there. You want to run as much heel weight as the motor will pull without bogging it down, then you will use a slight amount of weight in the CENTER hole, and leaving the TIP empty. The reason is this, when its piped its has a narrower torque/power band most of the time and when its shifted hard it has a hard time to recover before being brought down back into the meat of the power curve. Its allot like ripping a std shift 5.0 mustang, you side step the clutch at 6000rpm, and the tires are burning, you keep the gas mashed and then you shift to 2nd, car is starting to move out very quickly, then you shift to 5th, the motor will bog and just make noise, has no real pull to it, takes a long time and distance to recover from the over shift. When you have pipes on a sled, this becomes more evident.
I do not know the shift speed of these pipes. But I'm going try for 9000 rpm and see what happens.
The engagement is currently about 5200 rpm stock. It was installed last winter by someone else before the mods. The kit also came with a grey spring whats the pupose of this spring?
I'll be testing on a lake, snow hard pack on off trail. Running a kimpex shotgun track 121 x 15 x 1.25.
xc xtra-10 rear skid. 9 tooth drivers. Elevation is 800 feet.
carb jetting
pilot 45, fuel screw 2 1/2, slide 3.5, nozzle q-8/q-4/q-4, needle 6dgm-05 3rd/4th/4th pos
main jet 143.8/143.8/143.8 pto/mid/mag. The weather is about -18 to -30 this time of year.
The jetting is ok but i am keeping a close eye on it.
What do the good people of totallyamaha recommend?
nelsonhouse
Member
removed the clutch for the first time this winter.
this is the set up i found in the primary.
i weighed the heel clicker and it was 57g
700 vmax sx. Stock set up.
40-10
Shoulder. 1.2
Center. 3.3
Tip. 0
Spring. Red
i removed the shoulder 1.2 bolts on two of the heel clickers. the third one gave me a problem. striped the hex bolt in there
. tried to remove it with an easy out, the easy out snapped off inside the bolt that's inside thee heel clicker . 
i guess i will leave the 1.2g bolt in there. not much choice. work on the centre bolts next.
i removed the centre 3.3 bolts . i had to soak the heel clickers in liquid wrench to get the centre 3.3 bolts out. they were very hard to remove. the allen key does not seem to fit right into any of those bolts. none of my allen keys fit good. anybody else have this problem? i looked for some lighter bolts to put into the centre. there were no bolts lighter than 3.3. so i left it empty just to what would happen. the set up is now.
heel clicker weight 53.7
40-10
shoulder. 1.2
centre. 0
tip. 0
spring red.
results are
engagement approximately 4600 rpm.
shift unknown. i did not get a chance to test a high speed run. it was dark out and low oil light. acceleration seemed slower. but i have no timer.
my friend is going to test it out on the lake tomorrow. i have to take a trip.
he is going to test out the grey spring too. he is getting into this.
this is the set up i found in the primary.
i weighed the heel clicker and it was 57g
700 vmax sx. Stock set up.
40-10
Shoulder. 1.2
Center. 3.3
Tip. 0
Spring. Red
i removed the shoulder 1.2 bolts on two of the heel clickers. the third one gave me a problem. striped the hex bolt in there
. tried to remove it with an easy out, the easy out snapped off inside the bolt that's inside thee heel clicker . i guess i will leave the 1.2g bolt in there. not much choice. work on the centre bolts next.i removed the centre 3.3 bolts . i had to soak the heel clickers in liquid wrench to get the centre 3.3 bolts out. they were very hard to remove. the allen key does not seem to fit right into any of those bolts. none of my allen keys fit good. anybody else have this problem? i looked for some lighter bolts to put into the centre. there were no bolts lighter than 3.3. so i left it empty just to what would happen. the set up is now.
heel clicker weight 53.7
40-10
shoulder. 1.2
centre. 0
tip. 0
spring red.
results are
engagement approximately 4600 rpm.
shift unknown. i did not get a chance to test a high speed run. it was dark out and low oil light. acceleration seemed slower. but i have no timer.
my friend is going to test it out on the lake tomorrow. i have to take a trip.
he is going to test out the grey spring too. he is getting into this.
you dont have nearly enuff weight in the shoulder thats why your engagement is so high, you need around 3-4+ grams in there, I keep adding weight till the motor gets lazy down low. On snow its hard to really hook up with anything over a 3900-4000 rpm engagement speed. Rest of the set up would have been fine, the helix should still work but i would use a green sec spring around 70
reason for the grey spring is its shifts out a bit faster then the red but you cant run as much clutch weight, I use the red all the time, never found a set up with the grey that beat the red set up.
reason for the grey spring is its shifts out a bit faster then the red but you cant run as much clutch weight, I use the red all the time, never found a set up with the grey that beat the red set up.
nelsonhouse
Member
sec spring to 70
well my friend went for a test drive. he test drove a tank of gas. he said it fast and a lot of fun. the joys of a beginner on a Yamaha. he had a big smile
it's good to know the helix will work, i will move the sec spring to 70 today.
i bought some clutch cleaner, i will clean both clutches today. i'm going to change the spark plus to br9eya. it was -38 last night at midnight,but i still went for a rip. -38 + windchill on Yamaha 700sx =
i can't change one 1.2g bolt, in the shoulder of a heelclicker, i tried to drill into the easy out that's inside the 1.2g bolt. but the drill bit did not make a scratch.
i need a better drill bit or a new heel clicker. i'm gonna test out the grey sping after work. i might as well swap it out. i'll be cleaning out the primary clutch.
thanks for the advise mryiper700
i will load up that shoulder as soon as i get that bolt out of there.
well my friend went for a test drive. he test drove a tank of gas. he said it fast and a lot of fun. the joys of a beginner on a Yamaha. he had a big smile
it's good to know the helix will work, i will move the sec spring to 70 today.
i bought some clutch cleaner, i will clean both clutches today. i'm going to change the spark plus to br9eya. it was -38 last night at midnight,but i still went for a rip. -38 + windchill on Yamaha 700sx =
i can't change one 1.2g bolt, in the shoulder of a heelclicker, i tried to drill into the easy out that's inside the 1.2g bolt. but the drill bit did not make a scratch.
i need a better drill bit or a new heel clicker. i'm gonna test out the grey sping after work. i might as well swap it out. i'll be cleaning out the primary clutch.
thanks for the advise mryiper700
i will load up that shoulder as soon as i get that bolt out of there.
also, i would reinstall the 3.3 into the center
so get 3-4 grams in the heel when you get out your broken peice, then 3.3 center, empty tip and use your helix (51/43) with a green at 70 and see what rpms you pull and report back.
I think youll find the red spring to backshift and work alot better then the grey but no problem in learning, thats how you do it, change things and take notes. You have to slow stuff down before you can make it go faster!
so get 3-4 grams in the heel when you get out your broken peice, then 3.3 center, empty tip and use your helix (51/43) with a green at 70 and see what rpms you pull and report back.
I think youll find the red spring to backshift and work alot better then the grey but no problem in learning, thats how you do it, change things and take notes. You have to slow stuff down before you can make it go faster!
staggs65
Moderator
just to mention the obvious, can you get a hold of the stripped bolt with a set of vise grips?
nelsonhouse
Member
clutch cleaning
i pulled out the primary. took out the heel clickers, reinstalled the 3.3 into the centre.
sprayed down the primary with clutch cleaner. i sent the h/c to a friend to be fixed.
removing the bolt with a vise grip is not possible. i set the secondary spring at 70.
now i have to wait for the h/c. no test driving today.
i pulled out the primary. took out the heel clickers, reinstalled the 3.3 into the centre.
sprayed down the primary with clutch cleaner. i sent the h/c to a friend to be fixed.
removing the bolt with a vise grip is not possible. i set the secondary spring at 70.
now i have to wait for the h/c. no test driving today.
nelsonhouse
Member
Cant really tell, but is there a clutch underneath all that belt dust/grease LOL!!
With my testing and reading on here with help from these guys I found that the red spring works better for drags and I ran more tip weight 7-8 grams and no center this was in my 700 SRX
With my testing and reading on here with help from these guys I found that the red spring works better for drags and I ran more tip weight 7-8 grams and no center this was in my 700 SRX
yamyrider
Active member
WOW...clean that clutch for sure...it will make a world of difference
nelsonhouse
Member
testing/reading
yup there was a clutch under all that belt dust/grease LoL!
what set up would work for drag racing my redhead?
will the set up be the same as your 700 srx ?
i'm going to be trying out 2 drag races in march. both 660ft
will the drag race set up be different from trail riding set up?
thanks for all the help
i will continue to post any updates to my sled.
needaSRX said:
yup there was a clutch under all that belt dust/grease LoL!
what set up would work for drag racing my redhead?
will the set up be the same as your 700 srx ?
i'm going to be trying out 2 drag races in march. both 660ft
will the drag race set up be different from trail riding set up?
thanks for all the help
i will continue to post any updates to my sled.
nelsonhouse
Member
heelclicker fixed
the heel clicker is fixed. i installed 4.3 grams into the heel, 3.3 into the centre.
decided to use the red spring. try out the grey spring another day.
secondary green spring set at 70. 51/43 helix.
test drive friday
the heel clicker is fixed. i installed 4.3 grams into the heel, 3.3 into the centre.
decided to use the red spring. try out the grey spring another day.
secondary green spring set at 70. 51/43 helix.
test drive friday
Attachments
nelsonhouse
Member
morning ride
good morning TY
i drove my vmax 700 to work this morning.
cold -34c without wind chill.
the engagement is 4200 rpm.
shift is 8500 rpm.
didn't get a chance to pin it across the lake 1 km straightaway.
it was too cold and the sled was not warmed up.
carbs might be too lean for these cold temps.
i watched the tach as the clutch engaged at 4200 rpm a couple of times.
the tach got up to about 8500 rpm after about 100 meters and it stayed there for another 400 meters, until i backed off the throttle.
the psi stock blaster Pipes are tuned for 8800 to 9100 RPM!!
how do i get the vmax 700sx to 9000 rpm?
good morning TY
i drove my vmax 700 to work this morning.
cold -34c without wind chill.
the engagement is 4200 rpm.
shift is 8500 rpm.
didn't get a chance to pin it across the lake 1 km straightaway.
it was too cold and the sled was not warmed up.
carbs might be too lean for these cold temps.
i watched the tach as the clutch engaged at 4200 rpm a couple of times.
the tach got up to about 8500 rpm after about 100 meters and it stayed there for another 400 meters, until i backed off the throttle.
the psi stock blaster Pipes are tuned for 8800 to 9100 RPM!!
how do i get the vmax 700sx to 9000 rpm?
first thing is get a new red spring, its sacked out and likely why your a little low on rpm, its been well used.
here, you go you can see how much your red spring is sacked, this will cause you low rpm. For a band aid fix for the moment you can simply increase the rear wrap on the sec spring to 80 and it will raise the rpm slightly at the expense of topspeed but will backshift better for trail riding. You dont tune the rear clutch for rpm but I am merely trying to help you band aid the problem till you get a new red h/c spring.
you can put in the grey since its new, its a 330lb end loas where as the red is 360lb so the red is stronger however as much as the red one you have is sacked the grey is likely a bit better till you get a new red one in there.
you can put in the grey since its new, its a 330lb end loas where as the red is 360lb so the red is stronger however as much as the red one you have is sacked the grey is likely a bit better till you get a new red one in there.
Attachments
Last edited:
nelsonhouse
Member
grey spring?
i will replace the red spring with the grey spring.
oh yeah that red spring is well used.
4 months of snow.
do i wrap the secondary to 80 with the grey spring?
i appreciate the help mrviper700
i will replace the red spring with the grey spring.
oh yeah that red spring is well used.
4 months of snow.
do i wrap the secondary to 80 with the grey spring?
i appreciate the help mrviper700
put in the grey and wrap it to 80 on sec. clutch see what rpm you end up at and report back.
must be nice to use your sled more then a couple times a winter, snow here is in very short supply....lol
must be nice to use your sled more then a couple times a winter, snow here is in very short supply....lol
nelsonhouse
Member
i have replaced the red spring with the grey spring.
the engagement is now a bit higher 4300 rpm
shift is still about 8500 rpm. it seems to upshift a little faster.
top speed is down a bit. i pinned the throttle for a good 800 metres.
i did that a couple times. its not close to 9000 rpm.
what are my primary spring options besides the red h/c.
i'll order a new red h/c. i would also like to have a spare spring.
i still had a blast ripping around. burned a tank of gas.
my track was ratcheting more today. i'll fix that tomorrow.
ran into a friend with his new 2013 600 rmk.
gonna have to ask him to race next time.
the engagement is now a bit higher 4300 rpm
shift is still about 8500 rpm. it seems to upshift a little faster.
top speed is down a bit. i pinned the throttle for a good 800 metres.
i did that a couple times. its not close to 9000 rpm.
what are my primary spring options besides the red h/c.
i'll order a new red h/c. i would also like to have a spare spring.
i still had a blast ripping around. burned a tank of gas.
my track was ratcheting more today. i'll fix that tomorrow.
ran into a friend with his new 2013 600 rmk.
gonna have to ask him to race next time.
nelsonhouse
Member
nelsonhouse
Member
i went for another ride today.
engagement is 4500 rpm.
i managed to get it up to 8700 rpm.
but that's after pinning the throttle for 1 km on hard packed lake trail.
i tighten up the track and no more ratcheting.
the clutches do not get hot. the secondary is a bit warmer than the primary.
engagement is 4500 rpm.
i managed to get it up to 8700 rpm.
but that's after pinning the throttle for 1 km on hard packed lake trail.
i tighten up the track and no more ratcheting.
the clutches do not get hot. the secondary is a bit warmer than the primary.