snotwister
VIP Gold
a good viper susp. setting for fast trail riding.
I have an 03 viper. I bought it with 400 miles in 2004 and have been the only rider for the last 5000 miles. this is my take. its bone stock but with 96 picks.
When I first rode it, it was all over the place and was no wonder the last owner didnt like it.
Since i set the suspension, its more like it should be.. a well behaved trail sled. (fast thru the twisties, great confidense at highspeed...)
1: check out the proaction suspension tuning video on utube. Its about 40 minutes.
2: use a 6" metal ruler with mm ... something small and precise for drafting or thelike. a set of calipers.
the suspension is my body weight (150) clothes, gas, oil, trail gear (40lbs) combined weight of roughly 200 lbs. This setting works probably the best it can for what it is (proaction suspension of 2003)
Ive noticed zero darting, a planted rear end, excellent tracking, minor ski lift, For purposes of; very fast, agressive, 'cat and mouse'-chasing, twisty trail riding, this set-up is hard to beat.
3: confirm ski alignment that there is a little tow out,, maybe 1/2" tow out is nice. or parallel if you want to go extreme but just a touch tow-out is better, not much, just a whiskar . (use the bungee cord to control the play if any between hoops). carefully measure.. be precise in all measurements. make small adjustments!! (1/4 turn on tie rod ends makes huge difference).. confirm tie rod thread exposure is within limit (not too far out)
4: set fork preload to about 130-132mm. (a little firmer than stock) be precise when measureing
5: i have stock skis. my carbides are new, long, and have a speacial plate that flattens the old ski tracks of the previous sled before it cuts its line.
6: confirm limit strap is set to stock, maybe lengthen a few mm but stock works great. 25mm works well (see manual illistrations on how to make measurments)
7: confirm center spring preload is stock (86mm) ..(that is acording to my manual)
8: tighten rear spring preload 3-5mm to about 74mm (raise sled, relieve pressure with ratchet straps and remove shock to adjust preload..)
9: set full rate adjuster to uppper hole.. ("soft")
10: set control rods to stock, with stock shims
11: use 96 picks down the center.. I removed the outside pics down from 144 to 96 now. much better. still using stock 1" cone track (in excellant shape) top end back up to about 105mph ..
12: when loaded on sled sitting, verify there is equal gap on top and bottom of control rods. .. confirm this measurement you make in the heated shop is still going to hold true when its cold. Compensate with more preload if necessary to achiece proper control rod gap at cold temp
with this setup you should have just the right amount of cornering ability but still have enough transfer and proper skid coupleing.
I have an 03 viper. I bought it with 400 miles in 2004 and have been the only rider for the last 5000 miles. this is my take. its bone stock but with 96 picks.
When I first rode it, it was all over the place and was no wonder the last owner didnt like it.
Since i set the suspension, its more like it should be.. a well behaved trail sled. (fast thru the twisties, great confidense at highspeed...)
1: check out the proaction suspension tuning video on utube. Its about 40 minutes.
2: use a 6" metal ruler with mm ... something small and precise for drafting or thelike. a set of calipers.
the suspension is my body weight (150) clothes, gas, oil, trail gear (40lbs) combined weight of roughly 200 lbs. This setting works probably the best it can for what it is (proaction suspension of 2003)
Ive noticed zero darting, a planted rear end, excellent tracking, minor ski lift, For purposes of; very fast, agressive, 'cat and mouse'-chasing, twisty trail riding, this set-up is hard to beat.
3: confirm ski alignment that there is a little tow out,, maybe 1/2" tow out is nice. or parallel if you want to go extreme but just a touch tow-out is better, not much, just a whiskar . (use the bungee cord to control the play if any between hoops). carefully measure.. be precise in all measurements. make small adjustments!! (1/4 turn on tie rod ends makes huge difference).. confirm tie rod thread exposure is within limit (not too far out)
4: set fork preload to about 130-132mm. (a little firmer than stock) be precise when measureing
5: i have stock skis. my carbides are new, long, and have a speacial plate that flattens the old ski tracks of the previous sled before it cuts its line.
6: confirm limit strap is set to stock, maybe lengthen a few mm but stock works great. 25mm works well (see manual illistrations on how to make measurments)
7: confirm center spring preload is stock (86mm) ..(that is acording to my manual)
8: tighten rear spring preload 3-5mm to about 74mm (raise sled, relieve pressure with ratchet straps and remove shock to adjust preload..)
9: set full rate adjuster to uppper hole.. ("soft")
10: set control rods to stock, with stock shims
11: use 96 picks down the center.. I removed the outside pics down from 144 to 96 now. much better. still using stock 1" cone track (in excellant shape) top end back up to about 105mph ..
12: when loaded on sled sitting, verify there is equal gap on top and bottom of control rods. .. confirm this measurement you make in the heated shop is still going to hold true when its cold. Compensate with more preload if necessary to achiece proper control rod gap at cold temp
with this setup you should have just the right amount of cornering ability but still have enough transfer and proper skid coupleing.