Think I busted a chain case bearing no oil left in the case had a garbage bag wrap up in my drive cogs some tool left on the trail! Anyways right 2 hours wripping the bag out! Got it out grinding noise chaincase side found chunks of looks like bearing exploded! Any idea what the cost is to fix it labor and parts roughly ?
The more I think I just can't see how the hell a bag gets twisted up in my drive cogs to begin with! Starting to wonder .....what are the odds really ppl
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
My guess........1 in a million! I went with "ALL BALLS" brand bearings last time and it seems like the whole project was around $40 for materials (Bearings,speedo key, chaincase lube) Was alot more work than it was money. Which ever brand you go with pay attention to the seal side of bearings face the inside of tunnel. Open side goes to speedo housing/chain case. The last one I did the previous owner had just changed them.....Putting them on inside out.......Bearings with no oil dont make it very far!
Ouch ...does the track and drive shaft need to be dropped and realigned ? What is the speedo key ? Attached to the brake caliper ?
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
I imagine its possible to loosen track and try it but I have always just drop the skid out and pulled it all apart. Go over the skid while its out. Speedo key is a little rectangular/flat-ish peice that goes between drive shaft and speedo housing. Its designed to break when bearings are going bad. When speedo goes out its usually a "hey...check your driveshaft bearings" Did your speedo work before? After?
Nope that went out on the ice last year when it hit 90 figured oh well ride on ! My mechanic this year didn't mention it.. Just serviced so it sucks ! Now I know when ur speedo gives out ! All original bearing I would imagine from 97 or 98 live and learn
Last edited:
super1c
Super Moderator
Oddly enough the OEM bearings come with one seal and the seal is supposed to be facing the oil, this is how they come from the factory. The intent is that the oil can get past the seal and the seal keeps all those little metal shavings away from the bearing. The open side is sealed by the chain case oil seal on the drive side. Now guys here run them both open, both closed, open facing oil and sealed facing oil. I think no matter how you chose to run them just change the oil every season and your fine.
staggs65
Moderator
that is wrong info for the chaincase
95rxl650
Member
Most likely took your bearings out last year.
If you have a heated place to work, anyone can do the job, although being your first time, you may do some cussing and kick shyte around the shop a few times.
If you decide to go ahead and do it, it can be done in a day providing you can get the parts you need same day.
Post up if your going to tackle it and we can walk you through it.
Biggest pain in the azz is getting the rear suspension in and out.
There are a few little tricks to make this step go smoothly. For me, it's a cinch strap. Not a ratchet, but one that uses a cam buckle. Much easier to make small adjustments to the height of your tunnel. This is suspended from your ceiling. The other is a crazy carpet. Most important tool.
If you have a heated place to work, anyone can do the job, although being your first time, you may do some cussing and kick shyte around the shop a few times.
If you decide to go ahead and do it, it can be done in a day providing you can get the parts you need same day.
Post up if your going to tackle it and we can walk you through it.
Biggest pain in the azz is getting the rear suspension in and out.
There are a few little tricks to make this step go smoothly. For me, it's a cinch strap. Not a ratchet, but one that uses a cam buckle. Much easier to make small adjustments to the height of your tunnel. This is suspended from your ceiling. The other is a crazy carpet. Most important tool.
Alright I'm getting ready to try and tackle this or should I just let my mechanic do it ! Worked on plenty of cars doing little things but this man I know sleds need extra attention! Ok so here goes! The order I plan pull the pipes! Removed dip stick doesn't look like those bolts are going to hand me any trouble what I'm concerned with is does the parking bracke and caliper ect need to be unhooked? Best way to drop the whole track my concern is how to drop it and align it! Like to sorta get and idea good idea what I'm looking at before I got tearing her down! As for the gears I know need to come off them there is a washer then the bearing any thing else ?
I might tear it open and have a mechanic put the bearing in and ill put it back together take it for a track alignment just trying to sar a few bucks 48 bucks an hour ain't to cheap to have it worked on lol
staggs65
Moderator
check out the TY tech section http://www.totallyamaha.com/Totallyamaha/mainTechIndex.html there are how tos in there for most projects. If you cant find what your looking for there use the search here. Most all topics have been covered here a thousand times over. If you reach a point and cant find your answer, post. If you have basic mechanical skills there is no need to pay a mechanic for this job.
gil7247
VIP Member
Be sure to also check the top bearing in the outer chaincase cover. After going thru mine last summer I didn't pay alot of attention and after getting it out this year I had a noise I couldn't locate coming from the chaincase side. Guess what, that bearing in the cover, toast!! So now I'm doin it again, during prime time! Live and learn!
Watched a 32 min suspension video! Learned how to check tweak adjust that nothing on a chain case! Had some pic of one with reverse well I don't have the luxury of that lol who needs it anyway! For the weak!
95rxl650
Member
Raise sled by what ever means you choose.
loosen the rear idler wheel bolts, spin track to access adjuster bolts and back them off to end of the stud. Loosen the two transfer rod bolts, slide a crazy carpet under your hyfax and up around behind the rear idlers. Now raise sled as high as you can and slide out the suspension. Back first as your sliding it out, keep dragging it to the rear until the front skid axle clears.
No carpet? Slide a couple 2' sections of anything 2" diameter under your hyfax from side to side. You just need a way to keep the idlers from grabbing all the rubber cogs. I also use a bungie from the center top of the track to the rear bumper to hold the track up.
loosen the rear idler wheel bolts, spin track to access adjuster bolts and back them off to end of the stud. Loosen the two transfer rod bolts, slide a crazy carpet under your hyfax and up around behind the rear idlers. Now raise sled as high as you can and slide out the suspension. Back first as your sliding it out, keep dragging it to the rear until the front skid axle clears.
No carpet? Slide a couple 2' sections of anything 2" diameter under your hyfax from side to side. You just need a way to keep the idlers from grabbing all the rubber cogs. I also use a bungie from the center top of the track to the rear bumper to hold the track up.
95rxl650
Member
Remove belt,secondary and speedo cup. In the tunnel there is a collar with 2 set screws. Your screws maybe gone. This is the pto side bearing. If you can slide the bearing off, great, if not, off to the case side.
Pull your exhaust and case cover. Dont forget your oil catcher under the sled. Bigger round the better. You'll see why.
Remove gears, chain and spacers. Keep track of what goes where.
There's a 12 mm bolt inside the tunnel that is at the bottom of the case. The other four 14mm you'll find on the case.
2 bolts for the brake caliper.
2 cotter pins for the e-brake.
Oil tank has 2 bolts through the support and maybe 1 into the airbox?
Tip brake rotor up from the front and remove.
Wrestle the oil tank support out. I had some trouble with this and used a big flathead to pry.
You can pull the case, brake rotor and e-brake assembly as 1 unit.
The brake rotor may need some prying to break free. Penetrating fluid is your friend.
You should now have a drive axle laying on the floor.
Replace ALL bearings and inspect the obvious.
Dont cheap out on these bearings.
Pull your exhaust and case cover. Dont forget your oil catcher under the sled. Bigger round the better. You'll see why.
Remove gears, chain and spacers. Keep track of what goes where.
There's a 12 mm bolt inside the tunnel that is at the bottom of the case. The other four 14mm you'll find on the case.
2 bolts for the brake caliper.
2 cotter pins for the e-brake.
Oil tank has 2 bolts through the support and maybe 1 into the airbox?
Tip brake rotor up from the front and remove.
Wrestle the oil tank support out. I had some trouble with this and used a big flathead to pry.
You can pull the case, brake rotor and e-brake assembly as 1 unit.
The brake rotor may need some prying to break free. Penetrating fluid is your friend.
You should now have a drive axle laying on the floor.
Replace ALL bearings and inspect the obvious.
Dont cheap out on these bearings.
There's no oil left in it to drain so here what I came up with tomorrow lets see the mechanics estimate and if its to high well I already got him half way pulling off the pipes! Losened up this case bolts already just been re eating that suspension video to align it all back up looks like I'm prob gonna do it up tomorrow morning hopefully be back on her by evening! Maybe will need some help along my way here and there tomorrow is the day ill keep u all posted! Big helps! Thanks guys
What brand of bearing should I use standard oem! Pulled out my gear oil pump to suck up any excess all grease build up nasty! Anyone got a ski alignment tool by the way or know how to make one looking to build some homemade tools for tuning
95rxl650
Member
NTN are quality bearings and readily available.