dieselcamper01
New member
95rxl650 said:Most likely took your bearings out last year.
If you have a heated place to work, anyone can do the job, although being your first time, you may do some cussing and kick shyte around the shop a few times.
If you decide to go ahead and do it, it can be done in a day providing you can get the parts you need same day.
Post up if your going to tackle it and we can walk you through it.
Biggest pain in the azz is getting the rear suspension in and out.
There are a few little tricks to make this step go smoothly. For me, it's a cinch strap. Not a ratchet, but one that uses a cam buckle. Much easier to make small adjustments to the height of your tunnel. This is suspended from your ceiling. The other is a crazy carpet. Most important tool.
What in the world is a "crazy carpet"? I am going to be into all this in a few days and can use any pointers I can get. Not my first rodeo but it is still a pain in the arse every time.
super1c
Super Moderator
Its one of those roll up kid sleds. Putt it in the track to slide the skid in over the internal lugs.dieselcamper01 said:What in the world is a "crazy carpet"? I am going to be into all this in a few days and can use any pointers I can get. Not my first rodeo but it is still a pain in the arse every time.
Those thin plastic slides ? Wow brings back memories lol
95rxl650
Member
My chaincase side were 6205 bearings. forget the pto side. If you do a search you'll find out easily enough.
Yep, crazy carpet. Spotted my grandaughters in the yard and recalled using my kids years before. Longer the better.
Yep, crazy carpet. Spotted my grandaughters in the yard and recalled using my kids years before. Longer the better.
dieselcamper01
New member
I loved those sleds when I was a kid. LOL
Thanks for the tip. Hmmm, I wonder who might have one of those in stock? I will be pulling my skid this week and that would be awfully helpful.
Thanks for the tip. Hmmm, I wonder who might have one of those in stock? I will be pulling my skid this week and that would be awfully helpful.
Ok so here what I got bearing blew apart chain went and busted out some of the case! Guess that explains the oil loss! Didn't have to remove the skid not even touch it replacing both chain case bearing and seal and case ! And the clutch side drive bearing ! Should be back up and ripping tomorrow soon as te case comes in 75 bucks like new speedo key is half the man he used to be lol
Attachments
Got a new case new bearing plus the drive axle bearing and ams oil high performance ! Misc parts I picked up handle bar raiser blue winsheild cobra power valve decals thin! Guess all I need is one blue original arm oh yeah the speedo key
roudyroy1
Active member
whats the touque for the bolt holding the gear to the drive axle
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
43 ft/lbs should be it.
roudyroy1
Active member
any locktite? were both talking about the one with the big spring? i dont want to do the wrong one lolbluemonster1 said:43 ft/lbs should be it.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
the bottom small bolt that holds big gear should have loctite and 35 ft/lbs.Upper gear nut and washer spring is at 43 ft/lbs.You could use a dab of loctite if you want there,but that curved washer should keep nut from turning.I had it reversed..sorry.Just went and checked the specs.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
sorry..yes the bolt that holds big gear to drive axle should be 35 ft/lbs with locktite.I just had number reversed..roudyroy1 said:any locktite? were both talking about the one with the big spring? i dont want to do the wrong one lol
roudyroy1
Active member
thanks a ton bud! i have a reverse gear so is it still 35 ft/lbs?
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
don't know about the reverse gear..don't have reverse myself.Your judgement call here.best is to find a manual for you sled..has all the specs in it.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
I have a manual on the computer for the SXR sleds and found the info/Trying to see if I can post the page for you..but the long bolt that goes thru the reverse and forward gears is 35 ft/lbs just like a non reverse sled..should be good to go.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
not sure how clear this will be
but it looks good to me..should help ya!!!!
but it looks good to me..should help ya!!!!
Last edited:
roudyroy1
Active member
crystal clear, got the case back together thanks for your help
hlmrx1
Member
- Joined
- Jan 6, 2005
- Messages
- 31
So guys, are you sure that's how they come from the factory? I just opened my 02 Viper up and the bearing seals were on the inside side of the chaincase, the seal was off on the seal side of the chaincase. The guy that owned it before me may have replaced these before. I believe my new 07 Apex had the seal off on the inside (oil side) of the chaincase. If the seal is facing the oil, will the bearings get enought lube?super1c said:Oddly enough the OEM bearings come with one seal and the seal is supposed to be facing the oil, this is how they come from the factory. The intent is that the oil can get past the seal and the seal keeps all those little metal shavings away from the bearing. The open side is sealed by the chain case oil seal on the drive side. Now guys here run them both open, both closed, open facing oil and sealed facing oil. I think no matter how you chose to run them just change the oil every season and your fine.
Last edited:
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
well I run my bearings with seal off on the outside,so it is open to the oil.Been doing this on both sleds for like 7 years and have no issues.You know the small bearing that is installed in the chaincase cover.That one is open to the oil as well.Well I have not ever replaced those yet,they are all original..one with over 10,300 miles and one with over 16,000 km's.So if it is good enough for that one,I figure can't hurt the shaft bearings any,they are getting lubed.Also I have been usuing ATF also in the chaincases.