98 SRX 700 clutch set-up

W

WedigSRX

Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2008
Messages
107
Age
53
Location
Oconomowoc,WI
Ok guys, I am tired of trying mis-matched componets and being frustrated with the out come. I have a Hauck # 3 kit, Hauck grass drag kit, and 89A-10 weights.

SRX700
144 studs
.91 track
22-38 gears
89A-10 weights empty
BWB primary spring with (2) shims
Hauck (w) helix (56/50) measures 54-48
Hauck Orange secondary spring 6-1
gutted air box
engine and exhaust stock
rebuilt primary a couple years ago
10,000 plus miles

Not much testing done but it looks like the RPM is way low, like 7800 out of the hole. 8,250 is my target RPM in a perfect world. I pull the weight out of the inner hole and it seemd to come up to 7900. I am thinking I just dont have the proper helix to work with this set-up. Acording to Hauck I should run the 8DN weights but everything I read I should have the 89A-10 weights with the 48/42 helix.

Extra parts
Hauck L 45/39 measures 43-37
Hauck Orange primary spring (is binding took it out)
Silver secondary spring
Stock weights and springs
19-40 gears (grass drag)

From the tuning page I should just order a 48-42 helix, put the stock secondary spring in and add weight, or what do you recommend.

Aggresive trial riding, and drag race friends shorter distances, southern WI mainly. I have not been up north or ran long distances for a number of years.

Any recomendations would be appreciated.

Thanks
 
No Takers ?
I just heard a Goodwin white primary spring, with Polaris weights, 50/42 helix, and green secondary spring is a hot set-up.

Anyone know if the 89A-10 weight is simulair to the polaris 1058 weight profile wise. At a glance they look simulair.
 
The dn weights that came with the 98 were 00 i think and 10 for the 99 and 20 for the years up.I run the 00 with alot of weight on them with a 48/40 advantage .It backshifts realy well on trail and has good top speed but not as mutch as the bu weights would do for speed.

I never tryed the 89a weights but have a set in my box they looked heavy on the tip if i remember right.

.
 
I have a old 98 technical guide, yes the weight is a 8DN-00. The 8DN actually looks heavier on the tip than the 89A-10 but it is hard to tell from the drawings.
It does not even show the others you are talking about.
I wonder if their is any guys out their that are willing to comment on what is recomended on the tuning page ?

Thanks for the responce
 
WedigSRX said:
I have a old 98 technical guide, yes the weight is a 8DN-00. The 8DN actually looks heavier on the tip than the 89A-10 but it is hard to tell from the drawings.
It does not even show the others you are talking about.
I wonder if their is any guys out their that are willing to comment on what is recomended on the tuning page ?

Thanks for the responce
Click to expand...



how many total gram do u run with the weight ....u should run a w-w-w primary not a b-w-b....let me know...something close to 53-43 Dalton run amazing with the 89a-10 with green secondary spring ...
 
Last edited:
Thanks modsrx
So the teck guide on TY is off ?
I have no weight in the ramps (47.5 no added weight) and it is too much with the 56/50 Helix, again mix matching stuff.
Acording to a Aaen dyno sheet on a 98 srx, the peak HP is @ 8250 RPM 134.20
8000 is 132.50
8500 is 130.50
So I always try to keep it @ or a little below 8250, once I run out of gear it can over rev a little to hit top speed.
Looks like the W-W-W spring is very simulair to the B-W-B
If I buy stuff I want it to work :)
 
Keep in mind it is a stock engine and pipes, only air box gutted.

Question: Did you like the porting on your SRX ?
Who did it, and was it reliable ?
Just curious, I dream about having 165-175 plus HP.......
 
its no wonder your set up doesnt work too well you have all the wrong stuff combined as a total!
89a10 weights work great they are aggressive and have good shift curve all the way thru but you have a 56/50 coupled to them and a primary spring with only 11kg shift, so its gonna be low on rpm, your loading it down way too much. Even with the weights empty, the clutch is in front of the motors power curve.

Clutching is like a cake recipe, if you only use parts of a recipe and decide you only need to add 1 egg instead of 3 and leave out the flour because you dont have any, your not going to pull a cake out of the oven! clutch set up is no differnt, its ALL the parts working togehter to give a desired result.

what about installing the hauck kit as its listed on the sheet that comes with it?? your rpms will be alot closer. You have to set up the weights, springs and use ALL the parts as he list it for it to work.

for 89a10 weights they are already 47.5 grams empty, so you would need a stronger shift rate spring to keep the same rpm. A softer shift spring LOWERS the rpm, a stiffer spring raises it. The hauck orange spring is a 135kg shift that is supposed to be used with the heavier 89a10 weights in his clutch kit, and he also would not use the 56/50 helix, but more like the 49/41.

theres 4-5 articles in the tech area to read on how to understand weights, helixs and how to get the desired result from the set up.
 
mrviper700
Thanks for the input, I needed a little wake up call on the set-up, and not run mismatched parts. I have clutching expirence and understand how it works, but I either do not spend the money needed or run out of time to test. This winter I have had a bunch of time to tinker, now I just need to decide which way I am going to do.

I could go back to the Hauck #3 set-up which is
BWB primary 2 shims
8DN weights (stock)
W helix 56-50
6-1
hauck red secondary spring

But am thinking since I have the 89A-10 weights I should go with the TY recomendation.
89A10 weight 4.5 inner hole .8 outer
with BWB primary (2) shims
stock secondary spring
48/42 helix

Or go with the other recommended kit:
White Goodwin primary
Polars 56 gram weight
Green secondary
50/42 helix

What are your thoughts on the TY set-up ?
Any expirence on the Polaris weight set-up ?

Thanks a bunch
 
If you understand how it works....... why would you use weights that are already heavier then stock with a primary spring with lower shift force and expect to get to peak rpm still???

When you add weight to a clutch it LOWERS the rpm, if you install a softer shift spring it LOWERS rpm..., so you can see why I say maybe you dont quite understand how it all works. I am not trying to discredit/insult you, its just your telling me something doesnt work.., you know why... but want me or someone to tell you what will work.

the stock weights for a 98 srx(8dn00) weigh-44.25 grams
the 89a10 weighs-47.5 grams

so your 3.25 grams each, 9.75 grams overall more weight

the stock primary spring for a 98 srx is grn/grn/grn -40/131kg
the b/w/b spring your trying to use is -45/111kg

your now 20kg less force on the spring

I am not even including the rivets which is even more weight just to keep it simple, do you see why it doesnt work now?

So, if you have a 98 srx snowmobile running correct rpm and add 9.75 grams of weight to the primary and change nothing else, it will be every bit of 900+rpm lower rpm then it was before

now remove another 20kg of force and you will remove about 500+rpm more.........

so just as an "example" I have removed approx 1400rpm from your previously correct running sled with your primary clutch parts combo! 98 srx running at 8400rpm now runs at 7000rpm, pretty much a slouch/pooch for sure.

We can leave the sec. clutch out of the picture just to get a basic understanding of how it works up front, because thats the clutch you tune for rpm, not the secondary..

You then added MORE load to the engine(which also reduces rpm) using that big helix so you make it worse yet, but that will just muddy up the water for what is the basics.

If you really want to muddy up the water using polaris weights will require a pic conversion kit for the clutch and the weights sit at a differnt spot on the roller and are COMPLETELY differnt then the yamaha weights, youll really be going backwards with using that stuff if you dont understand how the yamaha stuff works.


add more weight: lower rpm, softer spring: lower rpm, bigger helix: lower rpm......

If I even guessed at a combo.... with 89a10s, a primary spring around 45/128-136kg , 48-50 degree start on helix, a finish angle of 36-38, green sec spring. The weights are aggressive and have alot of tip weight stock, so your going to need to balance the sec to the primary and use a shallower finish angle to pull good all the way from start to finish. Like I said this would be a guess start. You can see how much more spring pressure and less helix I would use to get started and test/tune it in from there.

I know you said you dont want to spend the money but you cant do this stuff(change clutching and look for more performance) and not spend money... all goes back to the cake recipe I told about before, leave the eggs and flour out, your not going to pull out a nice fluffy cake when the oven timer goes ding and says its done!
with a sled your not going to be correct rpm or get the set up your looking for with mismatched combos and not know what something does to the result in a paticular combo of parts.

put the hauck kit in exactly as he list it to do and see where your at, you must use it exactly as he states it on his set up sheet. Check your rpm and fine tune from there. If someone gives you a set up and your within 200-300rpm from spot on you just got a gift!
They spent time testing and tuning to get a paticular combo to work, and yes, they spent money doing so on parts that didnt give them the desired result or rpm.
The tech pages have clutch set ups listed, they are just that, a set up someone was nice enough to list, youll still have to fine tune it as every sled is differnt, tracks,rider weight, gearing used,paticular mechanical condition/performance of your engine,lots of contributing factors effect what the end result will be in your own sled.
 
Thanks for the info.

I understand every sled is diffrent and changes as parts wear.

I have been battling issues over the years, and have been adding weight to compensate for it.

IE miss matched parts,primary bushings worn out fixed that 3 years ago, orange hauck primary spring binding found that out recently.
 
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