Hi Guys,
I just purchased a 98 SRX from my uncle who never used it much, I think he may have been the original owner or bought with very few miles. It currently has 2k on it. Anyway, runs really strong and FAST, but when not on the throttle some what hard or traveling at 50+ there seems to be a noticeable vibration in the feet like something is rubbing or a bearing is bad. I am not a mechanic nor have I really owned a snowmobile before, just rode friends/family machines, so excuse my ignorance.
I have read that these had a crank issue, is there a way to check from the outside to see if it was fixed and if not, how can I check to see if that's the issue? Is Yamaha still fixing these under some sort of recall or is that expired?
Any other advice or heads up on this sled would be very much appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
Dan
I just purchased a 98 SRX from my uncle who never used it much, I think he may have been the original owner or bought with very few miles. It currently has 2k on it. Anyway, runs really strong and FAST, but when not on the throttle some what hard or traveling at 50+ there seems to be a noticeable vibration in the feet like something is rubbing or a bearing is bad. I am not a mechanic nor have I really owned a snowmobile before, just rode friends/family machines, so excuse my ignorance.
I have read that these had a crank issue, is there a way to check from the outside to see if it was fixed and if not, how can I check to see if that's the issue? Is Yamaha still fixing these under some sort of recall or is that expired?
Any other advice or heads up on this sled would be very much appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
Dan
jaws jr
New member
Sounds like jackshaft, or track bearings, there was just a thread and no not under warranty.
Could be just normal track sounds against the ice or hard surface is it a non studded track? I get a woom sound going on the ice no studs normal rubber on ice also ur chain case u can hear it ! If it sounds grinding prob is somewhere ! If it ain't broke no use fixing
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staggs65
Moderator
if it's got a 1 inch or bigger track it may be rubbing the front heat exchanger protectors
Where is the jackshaft and track bearing located?
The track is studded in the middle, the sound was happening out on the lake with plenty of snow pack. The sound is constant when cruising25-45mph , but goes completely away when you accelerate hard. Not as noticeable when going 50+. Not sure what that might indicate, but there is obviously variance when throttle is applied.
Could track be loose? If so, how much should it hang down from the Hyfax?
I grabbed the large drive wheel above the clutch that the belt also runs on ( not sure what thats called) and it has about 1/8 inch play in and out and maybe a very very small amount up and down, should that have any play in it at all?
The track is studded in the middle, the sound was happening out on the lake with plenty of snow pack. The sound is constant when cruising25-45mph , but goes completely away when you accelerate hard. Not as noticeable when going 50+. Not sure what that might indicate, but there is obviously variance when throttle is applied.
Could track be loose? If so, how much should it hang down from the Hyfax?
I grabbed the large drive wheel above the clutch that the belt also runs on ( not sure what thats called) and it has about 1/8 inch play in and out and maybe a very very small amount up and down, should that have any play in it at all?
How do I check those front heat exchanger protectors? When lifted is there anything I need to remove to check that? Thx again
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
roll sled on its side, and see if the front heat exchanger front protectors are loose. Youll see 2 aluminum protectors on it right at front of track, see if they wiggle, those early ones were known to rattle and be loose, might just need new rivets on them and some silicone up at the top where they fit in the hole.
easy to check before you tear into sled.
easy to check before you tear into sled.
staggs65
Moderator
thats your secondary clutch. the 1/8 play in and out is right but up and down means the jackshaft bearing is shot and probably the driveshaft bearing as well. the jackshaft bearing is right behind the secondary. unfortunately you have to pull the jackshaft from the other side to change it. the driveshaft bearing is below the secondary and easier to access
So with those being potentially the issue, do my symptoms line up with that? Would the vibration go away when accelerating hard?
Thanks again
Thanks again
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
98SRXDAN said:So with those being potentially the issue, do my symptoms line up with that? Would the vibration go away when accelerating hard?
Thanks again
if its the protectors loose- more snow is being thrown up against them so they cant rattle because they are being pushed aginst the tunnel the harder your on the gas, the more snow is thrown against them.......
if its bearings, the bearings are loaded the faster they turn and again wont make noise because of the load applied with the more throttle applied.
flip/tip the sled on its side first, it doesnt cost anything to check........
Thanks guys, I appreciate the info, I did not plan on going to the snowmobile school of hard knocks so soon, but good to learn new and useful things about them. I will check all the things you mentioned and report back.
95rxl650
Member
If you have to tear into it, let us know. There's plenty of good folk here to help.
I just picked up a 98 SRX 700 this year myself and have it tore down a few times. I think I could rebuild it in a day with the exception of the engine. lol
I have a 1" studded track on mine and after every bearing in the sled being replaced, I still have vibes. Some bad vibes can come from your track not being aligned properly also. Get the rear in the air, let your sled warm alittle and spin the track a few times. Measure the distance from the metal track clips on both sides to your hyfax/sliders. Free to check.
I just picked up a 98 SRX 700 this year myself and have it tore down a few times. I think I could rebuild it in a day with the exception of the engine. lol
I have a 1" studded track on mine and after every bearing in the sled being replaced, I still have vibes. Some bad vibes can come from your track not being aligned properly also. Get the rear in the air, let your sled warm alittle and spin the track a few times. Measure the distance from the metal track clips on both sides to your hyfax/sliders. Free to check.
I am going to check the track and the protectors today and see if I see anything obvious. If not, I will move on to the bearings etc. The vibration is not a violent grinding or real loose feeling, it almost feels like its a little restrictive, like its holding the sled back a little. Not sure how else to explain it.
And if ur going to change those bearing also change ur chain case bearing and Inspect the gears and chain while ur there ! The drive track axle bearing is on the left side at the bottom but u need to pull out from the chain case side like stag applied ! U can also check the exchangers ! If the chain is new there will also be normal woom noise ! But I would insist if its not ur radiators rubbing possible change the bearing before they break and ur chain goes three ur case ! I just went threw 300+ fixing this
staggs65
Moderator
thats what it feels like when the track is rubbing the protectors. when you let off it will feel like the brakes are on and slow down fast. other things can still be the culprit but start there.
Shrader
New member
strange that the jack/drive bearings would be bad with only 2000 miles, Have you swapped the belt with the spare? mine has 6000 miles now, and have never touched a thing, other than slides, and power valve cleaning.
Wizard
Member
Same symptoms happened on a buddies 97 SX700. It was the inner sheave (closest to the chassis; the back side that you don't normally pay attention to) of the secondary clutch. The brass bushing (or whatever it's made of) that's pressed into the sheave had worked its way out and was riding on the smooth inner shaft of the secondary itself. That caused two problems: first, the shaking (that seemed to go away at high rpm's) due to the lack of stabilization provided by the bushing, and second, because it was in between the back sheave and the chassis, the sheave ran into it and could not open fully.
Actually the jackshaft has less then 1k on it. My uncle changed the shaft and bearings as he thought this was the issue with the vibration. Just learned that today.
I changed the belt today and took it out for a ride, same thing, no change what so ever. I watched the main clutch while running, looks fine. The secondary seems to look good as well when it opens. The sled will go wide open 8400-8500 rpms no problem.
I noticed that at some point the studs actually hit the front heat exchangers leaving vertical grooves in it, its not leaking but was rubbing on it at some point. Not sure how, but it looks like it. Does not seem to be doing that now as I crawled under it after riding and I just saw snow pack pressed against the exchanger with stud grooves in it. I am still wondering if the track might be hitting the protectors. How can I tell if the track is loose enough to do this? Also, could bad Hyfax create any of this? I was told they were replaced, but they don't look that new to me.
Most apparent at 5000-6000rpms. It also idles at like 2500rpm after warm, that can't be right. Maybe thats causing something too or can that be easily adjusted?
I changed the belt today and took it out for a ride, same thing, no change what so ever. I watched the main clutch while running, looks fine. The secondary seems to look good as well when it opens. The sled will go wide open 8400-8500 rpms no problem.
I noticed that at some point the studs actually hit the front heat exchangers leaving vertical grooves in it, its not leaking but was rubbing on it at some point. Not sure how, but it looks like it. Does not seem to be doing that now as I crawled under it after riding and I just saw snow pack pressed against the exchanger with stud grooves in it. I am still wondering if the track might be hitting the protectors. How can I tell if the track is loose enough to do this? Also, could bad Hyfax create any of this? I was told they were replaced, but they don't look that new to me.
Most apparent at 5000-6000rpms. It also idles at like 2500rpm after warm, that can't be right. Maybe thats causing something too or can that be easily adjusted?
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I will also check into the inner sheave and see if I notice anything. thanks
staggs65
Moderator
idle is waaay too high at 2500. i think stock calls for 1800 but i run 1500. the adjuster for the idle rpm is on the center carb just in front of the cable. You will also have to re-adjust your throttle cable free-play after you change the idle.
what size track do you have? most 1 inch or larger tracks will rub on the protectors unless you trim the lugs over the track clips.
what size track do you have? most 1 inch or larger tracks will rub on the protectors unless you trim the lugs over the track clips.