Ski Lift

roudyroy1

roudyroy1

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Joined
Jan 10, 2013
Messages
1,517
Location
ontario GTA
when going around corrners under some power, the inside ski lifts and the sled tilts, how can i fix this? in terms of susension adjustments
 
You can try to adjust the limiter strap tighter, and or loosen front shock springs a little.
Trial and error helped me fine tune my suspension setups.
 
yamaha should come up with a slideable weight that will slide to the inside when taking corners..that would be a first..STA ski Transfer assist...lol
 
Hang ur a$$ off the side of the sled nail the throttle and slide it side ways that's what I do. Lol. Other than that try adjusting the limiter straps tighten them up to increase ski pressure.
 
Ya Id say be more aggressive with your position on the sled. In tight trails if you can get yourself up as close to the gas tank as possible itll transfer more weight to the skis. But these Yami are an awesome handling trail sled, doo's and cats cant keep up with me on the trail regardless of power, only my friends with polaris's can keep up. (my friend is driving an edge chassis)

I agree with bluemonster though just like a quad or car, softer rear and stiffer front will help you reduce roll in the corners. But it will sacrifice ride in the rough stuff.
 
stein700sx said:
Inside ski lift equals the perfect speed and forward bite in a corner. Sucking up the limiter strap will help reduce sli lift but will also reduce ride quality.
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So your saying my set up is good? In terms of ski pressure?
 
Try different things untill you get it the way you like it. you been given alot of good advice here. i personely like being able to lift the inside ski i use my brakes to set it into the corner and gas out. you just need to be more agressive and lean alittle more.
 
roudyroy1 said:
So your saying my set up is good? In terms of ski pressure?
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The way I set my sleds up, Yes. I prefer 6-9" ski lift in the corners. This lets me know that the skis have a hold of the trail .
Having the shock springs loose also means better ride quality. More spring available in the travel.

A good setup on the sled is a setup that you are comfortable with.
 
yes on set up and trial & error but if you're not choking up on the sled, hanging hard enough where you have your outboard leg practically horizontal, and ur bruising your shin on the pull cord handle and you have to grab the throttle by reaching with your fingers over the top of the handlebar to squeeze the gas in a hard corner speed and riding with a just a t shirt under your coat breaking a sweat then yeeeeep, skis will lift. ... the former agressive riding gives proper meaning to "riding" a sled vs. driving it lol!! .... Braaaaaaaaaaaaap!! :D
 
roudyroy1 said:
How could I lessen my weight transfer? I can't slid my back end out. It grips too well
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Get some transfer rods , and if you have the outside part of the track studded ...take em out! you'll soon be going into corners much harder and whipping around and shooting out. Its very difficult for my buds to keep up to me in the corners because i go thru them so well. infact i very rarely use my brake!
 
roudyroy1 said:
Alright alright thanks. How much preload you you run your front springs with?
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i have a note book with the settings ive made and so on..

I confirmed my ski toe in / out and found they were actually toed in by 1' mro or less.. yikes.. fixed that to about newutral or 3/4" toe out.

brought my center shock back to stock which I believe is about 86mm

on soft FRA I could not acheive equal gap on control rods with my 150 body plus all gear and cargo.. maybe 180-190.. cranked the rear tunnel shock down from stock to about 70 to 74 ish I believe.

confirmed that with full tank, gear and sled at operating temp (20 degress) but made adjustments in warm shop.. all good. gaps equal on rods. Full rate at soft. (this allows full rate to actually be used for a time when I have a passenger ,, medium and hard)

I drew my limit strap in from 29 to 25(which i believe is stock on the viper)

running a 6" carbide with a' beater plate' ahead of them to 'pave way' for my carbide that follows behind it

control rods show standard 2 lines ( adjuster sits just over 3rd ring)
ski pre load was 126mm and i upped it to 128-130mm

ive let control rod out 1 ring for more transfer and needed to up front ski 1 full turn of the colller, but did not like it. I returned my control rod back to stock (2 rings showing, adjuster on 3rd) and backed my preload off to 1 turn .. i believe its about 130 right now.


I still get a little lift from 121 cone track with 96 down the middle, but its not a problem lift. a little body lean is enough to keep it down. but yes, I believe older yamaha's have a known history./ reputation to have some level ski lift.
 
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yammy said:
Get some transfer rods , and if you have the outside part of the track studded ...take em out! you'll soon be going into corners much harder and whipping around and shooting out. Its very difficult for my buds to keep up to me in the corners because i go thru them so well. infact i very rarely use my brake!
Click to expand...




x2 on removing outside studs. 144--->96. much better around corners. not enough power to rip any out being that low on studs (96)

once set up (to thread author) .. yes should will be able to wick a tight trail pretty damn fast so long as the trail isnt too buttery.
 
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