Adjusting camber - questions/lower rod

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klipper

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Mar 13, 2012
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Guys - aligning my front end. My trailing arm camber angles are perfect when measured per the shop manual with the angle gauge behind the weld.

Put a level across the ski per Be The Vipers article and I could use some adjustment. Went to loosen the locknut on the lower radius rod - WTH? Who can get a wrench in there? Are you guys taking off the pipes, removing the thru bolt to drop the lower radius rod for adjustment and reinstalling or am I missing something here? No way I can get a wrench on the inside locknut from the underside of the sled!

Also - is it worth it to adjust the ski to level instead of leaving it as the trailing arms are fine? Guessing adjusting to get the ski level is going to throw me out of spec on the arms, but I guess the goal is the ski should be level, right? When I put the angle gauge on the level on the ski, to bring it back I think I need about 3 degrees or so.

Thoughts and advice? Thanks guys.
 
I just did this on my SXR last week. I assume every ProAction is the same.
Super simple. Tip it up on it's side and go after them from underneath.
Leave the control arms attached to the bulkhead.
What I did then is crack the lock nut on the heim(rod end) loose, so you can thread it in or out. Unbolt it from the trailing arm, leaving it attached in to the bulkhead. Stuck something in the end(the punch I bought to adjust spring preload) and gave it a twist threading it in in my case.
When I thought it was enough I just stuck the bushings and the bolt back in without the nut, tipped it back down, and measured it again. Repeated the process until it was perfect, put the nut back on and snugged it. Then tipped it back up on it's side, hit all the heims with lube, and snugged up the lock nut.
Good to go.
Literally only took a few minutes to do both sides.
 
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Did you use an open ended wrench from the underside? On the viper, there isn't a wrench in my arsenal I can get around the locknut at the heim. Looks to me like on the viper I may have to pull the pipes and take out the thru bolt on the chassis side. Thought about cutting a little plastic at the bulkhead to get a wrench on the locknut too.
 
klipper said:
Did you use an open ended wrench from the underside? On the viper, there isn't a wrench in my arsenal I can get around the locknut at the heim. Looks to me like on the viper I may have to pull the pipes and take out the thru bolt on the chassis side. Thought about cutting a little plastic at the bulkhead to get a wrench on the locknut too.
Click to expand...


Yea, open end wrench, and a shot of penetrating lube was all I needed.
I wouldn't think that it would be hard to get at unless you have a skidplate on it. I guess I could be wrong but the same skidplate fits on the Viper as SXR so they would almost have to be the same on the underside.
If I'm wrong, I apologize, but it literally took me only a few minutes, I confirmed my toe after, and I was back in business. I don't know if it even took me 30 minutes start to finish.....
 
I have done it both ways. Seems like its was easier on the SRX from the top working on the top one. This is where a nice clean sled versus beat up old grungey sled is a WORLD of differance.
 
klipper said:
Did you use an open ended wrench from the underside? On the viper, there isn't a wrench in my arsenal I can get around the locknut at the heim. Looks to me like on the viper I may have to pull the pipes and take out the thru bolt on the chassis side. Thought about cutting a little plastic at the bulkhead to get a wrench on the locknut too.
Click to expand...


I have a skid plate on my SRX so I used an opened end crow's foot attached to a long extention.
 
Crow's foot.....that might work. I'll have to pick some up. I would guess you don't use them much, but when they do work, they are the cat's pajamas.
 
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