Ways to make viper faster

Hey mrviper i sent you a pm about my heel clicker just wondering if you got it kind of anxious to set it up right and rip it one last time. Pm me back if you have time thanks
 
Yamaha4life3 said:
Hey mrviper i sent you a pm about my heel clicker just wondering if you got it kind of anxious to set it up right and rip it one last time. Pm me back if you have time thanks
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red primary spring
15 or 15.6mm rollers
5 grams heel

4.3 grams in middle

3.3 grams tip

use your 46/36 helix with red dot yamaha sec spring at 80-90

you can drop down 1 tooth and not need a chain, you already have a 68L chain in it stock, 1 tooth down will make it more snappy and harder pulling in low-mid range.
 
Yamaha4life3 said:
Thanks don and yamahowie wanted me to say hi you did his srx a couple years ago. Said your one of the best out there !
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your welcome, test it and see where your at, just watch the tach and tell me what it dos and we can fine tune if needed, every sled is a bit differnt but you should be very close and it will run good.
 
staggs65 said:
Josh, the SLP's run stock rpm?
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I believe the SLP's are around 8900-9000. The Bender's run at 8500 right in the ignition hot spot. The first year alot of Bender piped Vipers went down until they developed the Opti Cool headgasket and started putting on rear heat exchangers.
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I know Ulmer said the SLP's were the most trail friendly pipes he used on a stock Viper. Now a big bore I believe that is where the Simons CPR's work great. IMO, I am starting to think that the Simons pipes for the Viper and the SX700 motor were designed with big bores. I had Simons on my stock 2002 Viper back in '03 and they were really flat on bottom to mid and had strong top end. I have heard the same with the SX motor (redhead). I have personally driven both Viper and SX big bore setups with the Simons pipes and they are a whole different animal. I remember Allen Ulmer telling me he had more burndown issues with Simons pipes on stock Viper motors than big bore motors.

Lastly I still have yet to find a set of Jaws triples for a Viper. I have scoured ebay, Kiijii Canada, nationwide craigslist with no luck. I had a chance to buy a new set in the box for cheap about 8-9 years ago from Jeff Fischer (sledhead 24-7 show) but never did. I have called Jaws in Canada and they have some new ones left but they want like $1250 US for them. I chatted with a guy out east that had a few piped Viper friends in the day. One had Bender, one had CPR, one had SLP and one with Jaws. He said not only were the Jaws the fastest, he claimed that guy never burned down ever. When I talked with the Jaws Perf. owner he said he never sold many being he never boasted huge HP numbers like the rest did even though he felt his were more reliable than anyone elses pipes.
http://www.jawsperformance.com/viper2.html
 
I had a set of Aaen pipes on an SX700 and I found the power to be very narrow, they didn't really pull until 7000 rpm and needed to be hot. Word on the street was they were just reworked Indy 650 pipes.
 
I have a shime in my seccondary so the belt sits lower. It seems to pulls way harder than stock also faster top end for sure. Its not hard to do and seems like its worth it, imo.
 
roudyroy1 said:
I have a shime in my seccondary so the belt sits lower. It seems to pulls way harder than stock also faster top end for sure. Its not hard to do and seems like its worth it, imo.
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When the belt sits lower it just acts like a car starting out in second gear. Normally you try and adjust the belt flush with the top edge of the secondary for a good take off response. (no bog) It shouldn't have anything to do with pulling harder or better top end.

Now you can shim the helix cam out about an 1/8" which allows the secondary to open farther to drop the belt lower in the secondary for more overdrive. Normally this is done in succession with overdriving the primary sheaves so the belts climbs to the top of the primary. I have both done at the moment on my original clutches and I also have another set of stock clutches. I haven't had time to test which setup works better but with the overdrived clutches it pulls really hard. I had to drop some weight on my Heavy Hitter clutch arms because with the overdrive clutch faces, I have more area I am using on the sheaves and at WOT it acts like I have grabbed another gear which loads the motor down.
 
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