Bpredman14
New member
Hey guys I'm new here just baught my 98 srx 700 round it 2 weekends then started cuting off and back firing after 10 minutes of riding one time lasted bout 20 minutes before dying. Pulled pull rope off and the pick up coil wires were smashed inbetween pull rope cover and block. Worked fine tho for the 2 weekends don't know if that was problem or not but tore coating off wire and put some new wire on and used tape to cover bare wire but it's 2 thick to put rope cover back on. Any advise on if y'all think this is problem and wat should I do for best way to repair wire?
shigawaker
Member
shrink wrap? ...
And once you get out to test, if your problem is still there, check your wiring harness under the engine... I had a similar problem at the beginning of the year.
Good Luck
And once you get out to test, if your problem is still there, check your wiring harness under the engine... I had a similar problem at the beginning of the year.
Good Luck
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
X2 on the shrink wrap tubing. Can get it at most auto parts stores. Slide the tube over one end of wire, put wire back together (with solder is best) Slide tube over and hit it with a heat gun (or lighter) and it will shrink down. Seals real nice and aint a wad of tape. X2 on checking for rub threws elsewhere.
Bpredman14
New member
Yea think I'm going to pull stator and that pick up coil off because it's all one peace and lay it on a bench and fix it up with soder and heat shrink. Any tips on pulling the fly wheel off when doin this? Also was wandering if I have to re time it when I do this?
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
Bpredman14 said:
I use a pretty common harmonic balancer style puller (like $20-25 for the cheapy version) Remove the recoil ring, PAY ATTENTION TO THE LENGTH OF THOSE BOLTS. Find corresponding bolts in puller kit and DONT THREAD THEM IN TO FAR! use spacers washer/ etc. If you go in to far it will damage stator. Clean everything in there to the best of your ability (some cleaners may damage electronics...read labels) I use blue loc tite on everything behind flywheel and re-coil ring.
Edit due to forgot to mention the re-time question, No, crank has a key way that will only let it go on in one position.
Bpredman14 said:
If the wire is still intact but the insulation is torn, you can seal up the insulation with silicone making sure to clean the wire/insulation with alcohol or other cleaner (carb/brake clean). Another product that is made for such repairs is liquid tape or Plasti-dip.
If you go the Plasti-dip route, get out any hand tools that you'd like coat the handles with and dip them into the can as well.
As long as the wire isn't fraid, just sealing the insulation should be all that's required. In fact, it'll seal better than single wall shrink tubing and may be easier to pack the wire bundle back into the housing.
Bpredman14
New member
Well Tryed to take the flywheel off. The three bolts that hold on the ring for the recoil to hook to. Well I got one of the three off the other 2 the head stripped out on me. I got the
Big center bolt loose. I have a puller but
Only got one bolt out to thread the puller into. Any suggestions to get this flywheel off?
Big center bolt loose. I have a puller but
Only got one bolt out to thread the puller into. Any suggestions to get this flywheel off?
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
them Philips head bolts are the sh*ts to remove.Even with the right size philips head.You have to heat them up first because of the locktite on the threads or you will be screwed.I have a socket with the right Philips size,heat the head of bolt and heat will transfer to threads.Then I either use a ratchet and slowly turn it.Using an impact I thought would work better until the Philips bit jumped and screwed head more.Just need the heat and good slow hand power..then mine finally released.If I had to do it next time,I would also just get 3 new bolts also to replace them.Them heads should of been at least allan heads dumb idiot engineers..
viperking
Active member
If you stripped the outer allen head bolts that hold the starter ring to the flywheel just hit them with a hammer and chisel until they break loose.
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
X2 on the hammer and GOOD SHARP chisel. The trick is to place the chisel so it digs into the side of the screw head and starts to rotate it. Some times placing the chisel at 90 degrees with a couple little taps to start a dimple then angle it back for a rotational type whack. Other options are a good pair of vise grips (sometimes you can get a bite others you cant) or a dremel or die grinder and cut a flat head slot into the bolt head.
shigawaker
Member
Had the exact same problem earlier this year. When i went to have a quick look at my flywheel 2 of the bolt heads were like brand new but one was already all chewed to pieces. I tried a chisel with no result so I ended up leaving it as is for now since i will have the engine out of the sled this summer. X2 on the engineering failure with those bolts! So many different bolt heads out there and they chose rounded phillips! 
supervr4230
New member
Heating up the bolts and using an impact driver will be the best bet. Good luck!
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
as I mentioned earlier..heat them to soften the locktite otherwise you do screw up the heads for sure.I found the impact could cause the bit to jump and spin and then you have nothing to grab after..a good large socket Philips and remove it by hand.Give it a good tap also..When mine were getting wrecked because of using the impact I almost lost it..then did it manually keep pressure on the head as turning.
supervr4230 said:
X2 - A cam driven impact driver that uses a hammer to break the screw loose (not a pnumatic impact).
To avoid buggering up a phillips head screw use a new bit that is the correct size and push hard and straight while turning.
The use of phillips head screws is to avoid over-torqueing and stripping aluminum threads.
If the head is buggered, I use side cutters straight on to dig into the side of the head (as if you were trying to split the head in half). While squeezing and pushing, twist the cutters to loosen the screw.
Bpredman14
New member
Hell yea guys thanks the chisel worked just wating on viperking to send me the stator. I fixed that wire that was all smashed and frayed and did the proper ohm test with a fluke meter and ever thing was in the good
Range does that mean the stator and pick up coil is still good?
Range does that mean the stator and pick up coil is still good?
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
Bpredman14 said:
Should be good enough to run. I do a fair amount of riding where I would have to be towed for a ways to get it to a rescue truck/trailer. Depending on how far off the beaten path you get you may want to save it as a back up and put the one you have enrote in it. Or put it back together and save the one you have enroute as a back up.