bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
So I removed one front exchanger protector last Fall because it was banging around loose.The 2 holes where I would rivet the bottom mount plate to are to large for a standard 3/16 rivet to go in.So what is the best way to solve this?Can I perhaps fiberglass the area and then re drill a 3/16 hole to except rivets.I could perhaps epoxy the holes as well and re-drill..but will the epoxy last.Just need to fill in the 2 holes to accept rivets.The top rivet I am not sure if it will accept a rivet either.But want to put studs back on my track for next season.Also I could apply epoxy to the inside of the mount plate to also bond to the protector location to the underside of the exchanger are.
Monster, I dont think epoxy or fiberglass would be a good option for you, as it would not be as stongs as what was there inthe first place, also the epoxy or f-glass material will displace the much needed area for the holding power of the rivet... I would suggest moving up to the next rivet size which should be 1/4", and may be to tough to pull with a standard rivet gun if using a high strength rivet. I work with sheet metal on a daily basis and don't use rivets to fasten to often so take my advise as minimal for now until someone like Ding to chime in. (Ding is the Rivet man).
vmax4pjg
New member
check harbor freight they sell that 1/4 rivet gun for a real good price. steel rivet usually break the cheap rivet guns after about 2-3 pulls.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
I already bought an air rivet gun,it is up to 3/16.Maybe will have to try and rivet to the skid plate then,as long as it holds something.
I am guessing that 1/4" Stavex rivets would hold fine unless the hole is too big already. Can you get it to someone who has a 1/4" rivet gun? I can send you a handful of 1/4 Stavex rivets and maybe a couple structural ones (Interlock) as well. That way you can at least try it out first before gumming it up.
Post a few pics if you can, so I am sure it is what I think it is.
Post a few pics if you can, so I am sure it is what I think it is.
if it is steel, weld in the end of it a 3/8 bolt and cut the head off of it, leaving about 3/4 sticking out. if it is the aluminum ones, drill and tap it for a 3/8 bolt then do the same. This will make them similar to the aluminum ones you could put in with the track installed. you drill a hole straight up by the track and slide the guard up into it and rivet. I also pack the end with silicone or urethane to keep vibration down.
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
good ideas guys..I won't have a chance to take skid out till later in the year.Ding the 1/4" rivets means the part that goes thru the hole,but is the shaft diameter of them rivets the same diameter as the shaft diameter of the 3/16" rivets.By shaft I mean the end that goes into the rivet gun head.
Betheviper that is a good idea for pinning the top of the protector.I think it is steel,so I can weld a 3/8" bolt to it and slide it up into a new hole.I might be pulling the track out also,so that will be easier to drill up there as well.A nice summer/fall project amongst others..keeps me busy
Betheviper that is a good idea for pinning the top of the protector.I think it is steel,so I can weld a 3/8" bolt to it and slide it up into a new hole.I might be pulling the track out also,so that will be easier to drill up there as well.A nice summer/fall project amongst others..keeps me busy
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
I searched and found the sizes,the shaft diameter is heavier on the 1/4 rivets.You don't think my air riveter wouldn't except that diameter??
bluewho
Active member
If they are steel weld a couple of tabs on the bottom of the mount so you can have 4 rivets or cut it right off and weld a wider tab with 4 holes differant than the 2 already there.
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bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
but I have to watch where the exchanger is when drilling new hole upwards.I tried to drill a hole between the 2 holes already there and I think I was starting to tap the exchanger.Isn't there just that exact location to put rivets in,to scared to drill anywhere else left or right..
bluewho
Active member
That is why you weld a longer mounting plate so you have 4 inline along the outside,drill it out on the bench than drill the exchanger alittle so you mark the holes with the big bit than go with a small bit and work your way up.And ya dont go to far lol.Use the lenth of the origanal mount as a depth guide for location.
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bluewho
Active member
I no what you mean i think i put washers over the rivot like a head of a drilled out rivet washer if you know what i mean... welded on tabs and jb welded the whole thing for vibration.Its been awhile now.
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No, the breakstem is larger on the 1/4" rivet as well as the rivet body. You will need a different nose piece and a gun that will pull it.bluemonster1 said:
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
when I remove the skid later in the year,I will investigate what you guys are saying..I know the protector that is still on there on the right side has been solder or welded at the top..it is solid and doesn't move.Someone did that at one time,don't know why they only did just that one.
The boys at the bodyshop down the road from you will have a 1/4" rivet.
Maybe you could rent one from them?
Maybe you could rent one from them?
bluemonster1
LIFE MEMBER ONLY ONCE!!!
got them protectors worked out.Cut the bottoms of them and made wider and longer mount plates.Welded 1/4 threaded bolt thru the top plate where a rivet was to be installed.Welded the head to the underside and cut thread to 1 ".Drilled 1/4 inch hole for it to go into,.added silicone to the threads.It is way stronger now and got to say that the air rivet gun has got to be one of the best tools I ever bought.I took the skid plate out for the install and riveted it back on in seconds with that rivet gun.Cannot beat the performance compared to using a hand riveter.Installed my 144 studs back on the track todfay also.
