do these specs look right? im stumped! HELP!

roudyroy1

roudyroy1

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ontario GTA
did some electrical testing on my 2001 sxr, my question is do these look right? shouldn't every thing be consistent with one another? i.e handwarmers on high and thumbwarmers on high?
ANY HELP appreciated!!!!

300w ignition system
V= voltage
H= high setting
L=low setting
(A)= reading at idle
(B)= reading at 3000+rpm
(all readings in volts)

hand warmers: (A)H: .3V (B) H: 11.98V
(A)L: .11v (B)L: .12V

thumb warmer: (A)H:13V (B)H:13V
(A)L: 12.57V (B)L:13V

heated shield: (A)13V (B)13V
(back buzzer)
 
you check the hand and thumb warmers continuity not voltage. they either have continuity (good) or no continuity (bad). you check the variable resistors seperately by their resistance disconnected from the harness. both should sweep between 400-600 ohms.
 
just checked the resistors both sweep from 3 ohms to 560. so its not that. where should I go next? the hand warms seem to be lower voltage than all other hot wires?
 
Its also pushing 3 amps, should I look for resistance in the yellow wire to cdi? Could it be a relay? I just find it so odd that the hand warmers volts fluxuate so much but the thumb and heated sheild stays the same almost always
 
will do that tonight aswell,just one problem. I cant get the cowling off to get at the cdi. the screw that the hood latched go around just keeps turning.
 
use a long screwdriver and wedge in behind. if you remove the upper cowling screws and carefully bend the cowl, usually you can get enough force on the barrel nut to hold it from spinning while removing the phillips screw from it. sometimes a hammer helps. tricky endeavor, but its doable.

once off, tack weld it(unplug cdi box first), or jb weld around it after grinding some paint. not an uncommon issue for that nut to spin on that setup.
 
ended up having to pry the barrel out, who ever installed it used Loctite! anyways some of the connectors in the cdi were a little green but nothing major so I cleaned them. tested the resistance of the warmer power wire, resistors and wires to cdi all good. where next? :s
 
always a possibility. things i have found on that system include, but not limited to bad connections, poor grounds, load control relay or condensor not meeting spec(special tool needed to measure microferads on the condensor, that uF symbol), along with simply bad grips.

also remember that by design they wont work well, if at all, below 3000 rpm, due to the design of the ignition.
 
as i mentioned in a previous post, you need a special tester for the condensors. i went to a shop that specialized in electric motor repairs and rebuilds and had mine tested. i think your sled should show 6800 uF(micro-ferad?)

no clue on the regulator short of testing the output with the engine running. maybe someone else will know. not sure how that plays into your hand warmer system, if at all.
 
should have mentioned that, cold hand warmers, their not getting hot on any setting. maybe its not producing enough voltage? and the hand warmers get the short end of the stick. just odd how they have less voltage than any other hot wire
 
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dont forget that with that ignition system, the hand and thumb warmers dont seem to work under about 3000 rpm.

in other words, if your performing tests at idle speeds, you wont get much output. is there a chance your output for the heated shield is robbing power?
 
Heatted sheild is off the back buzzer, and it wasn't pluged in. Also I performed these tests at 3500 well on a stand or with no belt( it isn't going to runn away and destroy its self). I have to start elimenating things
 
here's a break through in the case, I think. I pulled the connectors off the cdi and found that a few of them were nice and green and some with this black stuff on them. after cleaning them it seems that the hand warmer circuit is holding a more constant voltage. still not where it should be but better! I doubt this was the cause, maybe its time to give up and just wear thicker gloves.
 
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