Help!!!

Cooper0809

Cooper0809

New member
Joined
Nov 4, 2012
Messages
1,206
Age
39
Location
Fergus, Ontario
Ok, so I'm trying to take off the ski on my 340 so I can weld the leaf spring back together. I could leave the ski on & weld it no problem, but this just means I have to haul the whole sled to my dads house to use the welder. I think its easier to take the ski off. Anyways, tried heating it up with a torch, putting leverage on it, etc. That bolt aint budgin!!! I took the other side off with no problems at all just to lube up the bolt & clean things up a bit. Anybody have any other suggestions on how to remove this seized bolt?
Thanks guys! Happy fathers day!
 

What's a pub blaster? I thought I would be able to hit it out with a hammer, but its threaded on the other end. If I punch it out, it will destroy the threads.
 
oxy acetylene, then hit it with an impact gun and dont let off till its stopped glowing then repeat
 
The best penetrating oil is a 50/50 mixture of acetone and ATF...I read a test somewhere and it puts all the "over the counter" mixtures to shame. If you tip the sled up so that gravity pulls the mixture down through the threads it will help. soak it a couple times a day, then lay the heat to it.
 
yeah get it red or even yellow hot. you may need an oxygen somthing torch to heat it up quick before the heat transfers into the bolt. propane alone may not be able to do it.
 
Yamaha Nutz said:
weld a leaf spring :o| :dunno: just get a different one ...they are the same leafs from the from 76 or so on up
Click to expand...

I have to agree here, just get another one. Your weld is just going to break right beside the bead anyways so why waste the time. Spring steel doesnt take to welding. I weld all day everyday for a living. waste of your well earned time.
 
tnc110 said:
The best penetrating oil is a 50/50 mixture of acetone and ATF...I read a test somewhere and it puts all the "over the counter" mixtures to shame. If you tip the sled up so that gravity pulls the mixture down through the threads it will help. soak it a couple times a day, then lay the heat to it.
Click to expand...

Machinist's Workshop magazine. The magazine reports they tested penetrates for break out torque on rusted nuts.

They arranged a subjective test of all the popular penetrates with the control being the torque required to remove the nut from a
"scientifically rusted" environment.

*Penetrating oils ........... Average torque load to loosen*

No Oil used ................... 516 pounds
WD-40 ..................... ... 238 pounds
PB Blaster .................... 214 pounds
Liquid Wrench ...............127 pounds
Kano Kroil .................... 106 pounds
ATF*-Acetone mix............53 pounds

The ATF-Acetone mix is a "home brew" mix of 50 - 50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone.
Note this "home brew" released bolts better than any commercial product in this one particular test.

Our local machinist group mixed up a batch and we all now use it with equally good results.
Note also that "Liquid Wrench" is almost as good as "Kroil"
for about 20% of the price.

Steve from Godwin-Singer says that ATF-Acetone mix is best, but you can also use ATF and lacquer thinner in a 50-50 mix.

*ATF=Automatic Transmission Fluid

http://www.vintagevmax.com/vvforum3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=2350&p=8717&hilit=acetone#p8717
 
Do NOT weld the spring! Professional welder here too, get another spring! You will be anyway, trust me!
 
I will only be using the 340 to buzz around on with the kids and for some ice fishing. If it breaks again after I weld it, then I'll get a new one. But its a cheap fix for now.
 
...and if someone gets hurt when it breaks, that's of no consequence? Seriously dude, that is actually a crime welding on that spring! Throw it away.
 
Yamahakid01 said:
If your not going to take the advise that you asked for don't ask in the first place. Don't hurt yourself or someone else springs are cheap enough
Click to expand...

I asked for advice on how to remove a seized bolt, not if I should weld a spring ski or not. I'm sure it will break again....we'll see. I appreciate everyones advice, but I will weld it and I will tell everybody that I should've listened in the first place when it breaks....if it does. Like I say, ice fishing & towing my portable hut, and buzzin around slow with the kids. Thanks for your concern though.
 
Not sure if you got the bolt out yet, but here is a trick I usually use. Heat up the nut to let the metal expand, then take an ordinary candle stick and push it against the threads. The heat causes the wax to get sucked in around the threads. While it is still hot, try loosening the bolt. Depending how rusted the bolt is, you might have to apply the heat/wax more than once. Hope this helps.
 
Yes I did end up getting it out...I had to apply a LOT of heat and used a LOT of leverage! Thanks for the tip, sounds like it would work pretty good. I'll try that next time I run into a snag.
 
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