Exciter help

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kallio

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Sault Ste Marie
I am in the middle of fixing up a 1980 440 exciter

I pulled the clutch side front bolt holding the skid in and it came out (not that easy) and the threads on it are all mangled. The chain case side bolt only moves about 1/8" out and then it just won't come any further. Anyone have any ideas? I have tried to get penetrating oil inside and will see if it works tomorrow. But how do you hold the inner axle piece so it doesn't spin?
does anyone know the size of the bolt and thread so I can try to re tap it? or would it be easiest to cut the bolt and order a new inner shaft and bolts?

also in the process of cleaning things up I took off the speedo housing to grease the unit and noticed that no bearing is on the drive axle???? I looked it up and it should have a bearing - any ideas how this would get eaten up so bad its missing?
 
the speed bearings are a commonly fail if not check put a new sealed bearing in and you will be good for a long while ....bearing number is 60/22 DU .......you need to try a impact gun on those bolts .....if not unbolt the rear of skid flip the sled up on its side and since it did come out a bit and if the shaft is free enough you should be able to tweek the skid enough to slide it off the shaft or enough to get a vise grips on the shaft to hold it from spinning
 
Try a 50/50mixture of Acetone and ATF as a penetrating fluid, works better than anything else. I have pulled the grease zerk and drilled a hole and stuck a punch in it to keep the shaft from turning. If there is no grease zerk, I have been known to drill anyway and either weld on a boss for a zerk later, or just cover the hole. Either way, I stop that shaft from turning! An impact is a big help, but if the shaft is turning freely....

Watch your bearing housing to see if it will hold a bearing anymore or not! I just disassembled one this weekend like that, housing is shot!
 
To get out the right bolt, thread a nut onto the left bolt, about halfway up. Replace the bolt onto the skid and tighten the nut to the machine. This will keep the shaft from spinning, and you'll be able to re-loosen the left side, by gripping the bolt and spinning the nut, without the shaft spinning after you get the right bolt out.

And you won't find a grease zerk anywhere on the sled. You have to pull everything that pivots apart to grease it.
 
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60/22 DU can you just go to a bearing shop and buy this bearing? I ordered one from the Yamaha dealer and they sent a regular 6004 bearing that I don't think will fit?
 
Bearing dimensions in mm: 22x44x12

I used a sealed bearing, since you could no longer get the seal for the housing. If you do used a sealed bearing, make sure to still grease the speedo gear set. Also, you will need a 29mm deep socket to remove the nut that holds the bearing on, and it will need to be torqued down to 61.5 ft. lbs. The three bolts that hold the housing to the frame are torqued to 18 ft. lbs.

Here is what I used as my replacement:

http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit6971
 
thanks to everyone for the help so far

still need to know the thread on the axle so I can clean it up to get the nut back on.

thanks again
 
Sorry, I am not sure about that, I don't have a thread pitch gauge. You can try to use a wire wheel to clean them up a little, I used that technique on a CV axle once.
 
ok so I have it all back together but it seems as if something is binding

can you over tighten the nut on the clutch side and the bolt on the chaincase side? it isn't anywhere near 60 ft/lbs but I can't turn the track with my hand. I can if I spin the secondary but I can't pull the track by hand.
 
Sorry I haven't gotten to you, I have been fairly busy lately.

Chaincase side bolt is 36 ft/lbs.

You can over tighten the bolt, however, it will not have an effect on how easily the track moves. Rather, you will damage the threads, and/or wear the bearing out quicker. If the track is hard to pull, that has more to do with the track tension, or a bad idler wheel.

Factory spec for track tension is 1.18 in. deflection with a 22 lb weight in the center of the track. I feel that is a little high, I run mine with a 1.5 in. deflection with a 10 lb. weight, and I have never had it ratchet.
 
I have the track loosened right off for now and I'm going to have to take the chaincase cover off. The track doesn't spin at all unless I use the secondary with my hands.

how tight should the bolt be for putting tension on the chain? I have it finger tight?
 
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