We just picked up a Sc3 skid from a fellow TY member, (thanks). We can not wait to install in the Viper. The Viper is a 136 track, the skid is a 121. We are going to relocate the skid back 4" and extend the skid 3.5". This should give us a much better approch angle and proper geometry for the skid/track. Any suggestions??? Al
Sc3 skid
- Thread starter alswagg
- Start date
bluewho
Active member
Its a good idea to service the rear axle when its out as they tend to stick from rust.And if you are moving front brackets back use good rivots with some extra holes for extra support.The rear washer body plates need to be drilled out for the 1/2 in bolt so be carfull when drilling the body that you dont go to low.HTH len
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Oh, ya I already relocated the skid on one of the SXR's. That sled has a 128" track. This SC3 skid is sooooo much lighter than the Proaction. I have read that the Sc3 skid rides so much better also. We will see. Al
I have always wanted to try a different skid, but am very nervous about getting it properly installed. Is there a way to tie the skid into a position that the mounts are properly oriented so that you can locate the holes. Or do you always have to have the measurements from the donor sled?
mile9c1
New member
sxr70001 said:
IMO there's too much variation introduced when you "tie the skid into a position" and mark the holes from there. How do you even know when the skid is in the right compressed position?
I'm working on installing a cat skid so I made a cardboard template directly from the donor sled's tunnel. This way the holes I mark will at least be similar from side to side (my tunnel might not be square). I didn't know how the donor sled's driveshaft position compared to mine though, so I set my rear bumper at the height I wanted and then marked the rear mounting hole from there (the vertical height was found by measuring the new skid from the floor up to the rear mounting point, in the compressed position, and accounting for the track's lug height). When I lined the template up with my driveshaft and this new rear mounting hole, the middle (front skid) mount hole was a 1/4" lower than where the skid would naturally lie (in the compressed state). So I compromised 1/8" and called it a good average. I can adjust the limiter straps later on if I want to change the way it rides.
I kept the distance from the driveshaft to the front skid mount, and the distance from the front skid mount to the rear skid mount exactly the same as the donor sled.
bluewho
Active member
sxr70001 said:
On a Sc 3 skid the rear needs to be compressed with a ratchet strap that you would tie your sled down with on a trailor.
Compress it untill it is the same distance between axles holes as the doner sled was and it will perform as it was intended.
The rear plate is best just on top of the running boards as found on your yami just will have to be moved back, there is alittle room for movement up and down for the front plate but there is a lip for the coolers there that you should just stay above.
Measuring from the drive axle is one way for proper placment but i like to use math as allswag is doing working from the rear wheel to the rear axle bolt for the body from one skid to the other than you know the track will tighton with the adjusters when it is installed.
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