Has any one used or have any experience with the shockwave helix. I found this online and looks like a good idea. They make the helix in a multi angle and a straight. Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks
shockwave secondary helix.
- Thread starter RB2001SRX700
- Start date
That's the one that will change angles by twisting a ring isn't it? If it is I remember reading something about them a couple of years ago on a thread here and although the theory is right in actual real world use they aren't all they're cracked up to be.
after I posted this I looked it up on here and thats was basically what I had read too. Great idea but not worth the money if it doesn't work. They did have one that was multiangled but seems like you would have to tweak it every time you went out. I like riding more then wrenching. Besides it's not that hard to change the helix if need be. Thanks for the reply
No problem,it's better to ask a question like that and get an answer versus spending a couple hundred dollars on stuff only to find it's snake oil.Of all the aftermarket products out there you'll usually find someone that's tried them and will give you an honest answer.
I will say, I love mine. It is so simple to adjust for load differences. heavy snow, my kids on back, or icy covered trail. I can adjust a couple degrees one way or the other, in less time than it takes to remove my side cover. If you had it on a sled with a coul, it wouldn't take more than 10 seconds to adjust.
I wish I had had one of these years ago, rather than taking extra helixes out testing on the trail. Just keep turning and trying things. when you find what you like, take a piece of flashing, scribe that angle down to see what helix in the box lines up to it. If you have a setting that works good, you can scribe a line on the helix so you can always go back to it. I am pissed I never bought one of these when they first came out. I would think mountain guys would love these for that reason on unboosted sleds that lose power traveling upward.
I wish I had had one of these years ago, rather than taking extra helixes out testing on the trail. Just keep turning and trying things. when you find what you like, take a piece of flashing, scribe that angle down to see what helix in the box lines up to it. If you have a setting that works good, you can scribe a line on the helix so you can always go back to it. I am pissed I never bought one of these when they first came out. I would think mountain guys would love these for that reason on unboosted sleds that lose power traveling upward.
Good info. I just purchased a 53/45 from pioneer. I have read a lot about them and seems like it would work good with the setup I have. 4.5 in both holes 3x white spring and green in the secondary at 60. 144 studs in the middle and a new hacksaw 1 inch track. I do mainly trail riding and the occasional rip on the ice with my buddies. And I now I losea little power with the bender can but love the sound.
Thanks for the info BETHEVIPER and fourbarrel.
Thanks for the info BETHEVIPER and fourbarrel.
while your testing, try a silver/blue secondary polaris spring. you wind them different, you'll use from 90-110 deg twist. I have always found them to be a better spring than the green. They give a little more side load at the beginning with the same side load at the end.
thanks for the tip i will have to look into that.
FJViper
New member
BETHEVIPER said:
Side load as in squeezing the belt? Can you elaborate on the that BTV?
as in preload of spring. secondary springs do a few things.
1 they have side load, installed load and compressed load, same as the measurement used on primary springs.
2 they have starting twist pressure, this is set by the holes in the secondary and can be measured by using a fish scale pulling on the outer edge of the sheave. Usually looking for 13-18lbs in general. most guys running yamaha just talk in terms of twist, but when you start mixing springs, it is good to have a fish scale around so you can compare apples to apples on setting.
3 then ending twist, this is the twist pressure when the clutch is open. This is fixed to the starting twist setting based on the springs wire size. You can only change this setting by changing the starting twist, or, by changing the spring to one with the same side loads with the a different size wire.
side load in a secondary is controlled by a few things.
1 the pull of the belt on by the motor, against the sheave, against the helix, against the buttons, against the jack shaft.
2 spring twist helps to change shifting, or friction against the helix, to increase of decrease load on either the belt or the shaft.
3 side load from the spring helps to add side load as the area of the clutch the belt can make contact with gets smaller as the clutch is shifted out. Helixes also enter into this pressure but only exert force when there is a load, which is the reason for a spring in the first place.
It's a fun dance and the reason there are so many different ways to get the same number. Also, measure all your springs when your clutching with spring changes, they will be a little different than the colors say the more used they getl
1 they have side load, installed load and compressed load, same as the measurement used on primary springs.
2 they have starting twist pressure, this is set by the holes in the secondary and can be measured by using a fish scale pulling on the outer edge of the sheave. Usually looking for 13-18lbs in general. most guys running yamaha just talk in terms of twist, but when you start mixing springs, it is good to have a fish scale around so you can compare apples to apples on setting.
3 then ending twist, this is the twist pressure when the clutch is open. This is fixed to the starting twist setting based on the springs wire size. You can only change this setting by changing the starting twist, or, by changing the spring to one with the same side loads with the a different size wire.
side load in a secondary is controlled by a few things.
1 the pull of the belt on by the motor, against the sheave, against the helix, against the buttons, against the jack shaft.
2 spring twist helps to change shifting, or friction against the helix, to increase of decrease load on either the belt or the shaft.
3 side load from the spring helps to add side load as the area of the clutch the belt can make contact with gets smaller as the clutch is shifted out. Helixes also enter into this pressure but only exert force when there is a load, which is the reason for a spring in the first place.
It's a fun dance and the reason there are so many different ways to get the same number. Also, measure all your springs when your clutching with spring changes, they will be a little different than the colors say the more used they getl
FJViper
New member
Thanks for the explanation BTV. That makes sense to me (I guess that 2nd cup of coffee really does help).
staggs65
Moderator
I'm glad you brought up this spring Scott. I think this spring could serve me well. I often have to go to a silver to keep from sucking the belt when in the end I feel i'd be better served with a green. I'll give it a shot.
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