I'll look for the safety relay. Thanks. Does anyone have the test procedure, and ohms values for the the SXR 500?
snowdad4
VIP Member
you can find your ohm values in the tech section/misc/voltage specs. its as simple as unplugging the main harness from the mag and using your multimeter checking for ohms resistance based on the wire colors.
if you need more info, let me know.
if you need more info, let me know.
Thank you very much!
So I ohmed the pick up coil, and it checks out within spec. I then crank the motor over with the plugs out, and get .04-.05 volts. Not even close to what is specd. I then ohm the brown-black/red leads from the charge coil, and get no continuity. Looks like the stator is done. And this thing fired up, and ran when I woke it up from storage no problems as usual....then next time I try to fire it up...nothing...FFS!
So I just put another stator in this sled. Still no spark. I ohm the stator, and get no readings at all until I switch to meter to 20K. If I hold the probes on the leads long enough, I will lose the reading. If I switch to 200K, then I get a steadier reading of around 6....FFS!! again. Looks like this stator is poop too!
snowdad4
VIP Member
new stator or used? i like to test them prior to installing, especially used. before you give up hope, go back and re-read mr vipers link to spark problems and work your way through his theories. hopefully its something simple.
dont forget to test the switches for the tors at both the throttle perch and the carb rack.
dont forget to test the switches for the tors at both the throttle perch and the carb rack.
Its a used stator. Yes, I should have checked it before installing. The guy I got it from said it was from a running sled with a noisy crank. I already bypassed the tors hoping that was it. My ohmmeter tells me it's the stator. I checked the pick up coil, and it reads in spec. so I know the meter is somewhat accurate
schicky
New member
I am having a similar problem with my 2001 SXR 700. Drove it earlier in the day and it ran fine. Parked it and around 3 hours later went to ride again but it just stumbled and backfired. Now there is no spark at all. Tried to check out the stator as my manual says but I do not have a six wire rectangular plug or a 3 wire triangular plug. Traced the wires and there are only 5 wires coming out of the crankcase. 2 wires are for the pick-up coil and then there are 3 white wires. How do I check my stator? Pick-up coil checks out at 201 ohms. While trying a few things it regains spark and runs for a minute or so then shuts off again as if you killed it. Last time I had it running, played with the dimmer switch and the lights went out completely and the tach quit working. Traced the wires under the engine and all seems good. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanx in advance.
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
the harness is shorted out under the negine, you have to pull it out to fix it,thats why it will work when your fiddling around with the wires till the strands of wire that are rubbed thru the insulation are touching ground and shorting it out.I am having a similar problem with my 2001 SXR 700. Drove it earlier in the day and it ran fine. Parked it and around 3 hours later went to ride again but it just stumbled and backfired. Now there is no spark at all. Tried to check out the stator as my manual says but I do not have a six wire rectangular plug or a 3 wire triangular plug. Traced the wires and there are only 5 wires coming out of the crankcase. 2 wires are for the pick-up coil and then there are 3 white wires. How do I check my stator? Pick-up coil checks out at 201 ohms. While trying a few things it regains spark and runs for a minute or so then shuts off again as if you killed it. Last time I had it running, played with the dimmer switch and the lights went out completely and the tach quit working. Traced the wires under the engine and all seems good. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanx in advance.
schicky
New member
Checked the harness and tested with an ohm meter and all wires look and tested ok.
Mrviper is correct ..you need to trace the entire harness , It usually is under the motor where it rubs thru or shorted out ..But that is def, your problem
mrviper700
VIP Lifetime Member
I have fixed hundreds of these things, theres no way to fix it until you get physical and pull the harness up and out from the engine, it will be chaffed thru and it only takes 1 or 2 strands of the wire to make the sled all goofy acting.
1.) take a peice of string 4ft long and tie it on the harness up at the hood hinge, unplug the connectors at hood hinge
2.) reach down and bend over/back the small retainers holding the harness to the belly of the sled, try to reach and get as many as you can under front of engine/exhaust.
3.) easier to have the carb rack and airbox removed, unplug stator from wire harness
4.) now grab ahold of the harness down at back/bottom of recoil and pull it back and up out of the sled, youll need to pull as theres a couple of those bend over clamps you wont be able to reach under the motor. Pull it back and out about 3ft.
5.) the factory harness will be just wrapped in black tape, remove all the tape and carefully check each individual wire, youll find 1 or more just barely chaffed thru exposing the copper wire strands, sometimes they are rubbed almost clear thru the wire. Tape up each wire individually, then retape entire harness like before and now place that harness in automotive black convolute tubing, found at any autoparts store. Pull the string you tied on the end and reinstall harness and hook everything back up.
ALL the pro action chassis sleds rub thru eventually, so if its not rubbed thru now it will be soon, so its not wasted work. When you switch the headlight and it makes the tach and stuff goofy, then no spark, spark when your fiddling around the stator wires... thats a classic rub thru symptom.
1.) take a peice of string 4ft long and tie it on the harness up at the hood hinge, unplug the connectors at hood hinge
2.) reach down and bend over/back the small retainers holding the harness to the belly of the sled, try to reach and get as many as you can under front of engine/exhaust.
3.) easier to have the carb rack and airbox removed, unplug stator from wire harness
4.) now grab ahold of the harness down at back/bottom of recoil and pull it back and up out of the sled, youll need to pull as theres a couple of those bend over clamps you wont be able to reach under the motor. Pull it back and out about 3ft.
5.) the factory harness will be just wrapped in black tape, remove all the tape and carefully check each individual wire, youll find 1 or more just barely chaffed thru exposing the copper wire strands, sometimes they are rubbed almost clear thru the wire. Tape up each wire individually, then retape entire harness like before and now place that harness in automotive black convolute tubing, found at any autoparts store. Pull the string you tied on the end and reinstall harness and hook everything back up.
ALL the pro action chassis sleds rub thru eventually, so if its not rubbed thru now it will be soon, so its not wasted work. When you switch the headlight and it makes the tach and stuff goofy, then no spark, spark when your fiddling around the stator wires... thats a classic rub thru symptom.
schicky
New member
Thanx, will take another look at it. Will keep you informed as to how I make out.
schicky
New member
Thanx a lot for all your help. Got it running yesterday. Just like you had said. Rubbed wire at the connectors by the hood hinge. On the hood side the wire was rubbing on the shock mounting bolt. Seems to be working fine now, hopefully take it for a run tonite and see how it holds out. Thanx again for all of the help and keeping me from spending a bunch of money on nonreturnable electrical components.