SRX Power Valve Pullthrough
- Thread starter 02YamiSxViper
- Start date
they will look the same as the stock valve, same dimensions on tip, I just measured the stock one and machine the bolt head to same spec. I se steel bolts not stainless as there is no reason to use stainless other then for corrosion resistance. Theres no corrosion on a powervalve as they get oily residue on them all the time from the 2 smoke oil.
I have repaired these this way for years, its not a new idea. I will have the quote by monday for the anodizing, I have to farm that part out as obviously, I dont have the anodizing tanks to do it, will be a standard hard coat anodizing just like whats on them stock.
I have repaired these this way for years, its not a new idea. I will have the quote by monday for the anodizing, I have to farm that part out as obviously, I dont have the anodizing tanks to do it, will be a standard hard coat anodizing just like whats on them stock.
I have not yet got a call back, I called agin this morning and left a message for the anodizing. I am here twiddling my thumbs waiting for an answer as to batch cost and turn around per batch done.
I have thought about this and if I cant be given a guarantee as to turn around for this, the only method I have of doing this is to have some pre done and they would be done on a swap out/ exchange. Its done by a minimum batch charge, so I cant just have 2 coated, then 9 then 1,otherwise I will end up eating minimum batch charges and I dont think I want to do that.
The only real way to do this effectively timewise is to have a "exchange program" that way I can buy a few used sets of powervalves, strip them and reanodize them and then repair the ends. No real way to control the "time of repair"otherwise, cant be done with sending the valve for repair and recoating all in a week turn around time I gonna do on the valves.
These are usually the the problems with out sourcing a job and trying to run it thru your current shop, the 2 timelines end up butting heads and then the end guy(you) is upset for time delays promised by me. I dont want to even open up that can of worms.
I have thought about this and if I cant be given a guarantee as to turn around for this, the only method I have of doing this is to have some pre done and they would be done on a swap out/ exchange. Its done by a minimum batch charge, so I cant just have 2 coated, then 9 then 1,otherwise I will end up eating minimum batch charges and I dont think I want to do that.
The only real way to do this effectively timewise is to have a "exchange program" that way I can buy a few used sets of powervalves, strip them and reanodize them and then repair the ends. No real way to control the "time of repair"otherwise, cant be done with sending the valve for repair and recoating all in a week turn around time I gonna do on the valves.
These are usually the the problems with out sourcing a job and trying to run it thru your current shop, the 2 timelines end up butting heads and then the end guy(you) is upset for time delays promised by me. I dont want to even open up that can of worms.
just,got the call back.
Ok, well to have the valve reanodized like original is gonna be $35 each. The anodizing would have to be done BEFORE the end is repaired as you cant put steel into the anodizing tank. I have to submit batchs of 12 or more parts.
So going to the post before, I am going to buy used valves both viper and srx and have a set of 12 of each done first, then repair the ends on them to have as the exchange program, its the only way to do this as the turn around time is 7-10 days from the plater. I can hold to my 1 week turn around on my end by doing a exchange program. If you send me a valve thats damaged on the face,rippled,gouged from piston hitting the edge or something other then the end being pulled thru its gonna not be a flat out exchange for a good valve repaired.
if there is minor rippling(common) on the tops or bottom that will just be plated over as it really doesnt effect the valves operation.
so as of today, if you want the valves repaired I am ready to do so.
If you want them recoated, I can NOT do this till I have my exchange program up and going which will be a little bit of time to collect/buy 12 viper valves, and 12 srx valves to have ready to exchange out.
I am aware a new valve is $105 new, so if you had the coating done and the end repaired youd still be saving basicly $30 each plus the valve will outlast a new std one by 10 times as the end will never pull out again. set of 3 youd save $90 over buying new yamaha ones.
NOTE: Once a valve has been repaired on the end, it can NOT be recoated/anodized again.
Ok, well to have the valve reanodized like original is gonna be $35 each. The anodizing would have to be done BEFORE the end is repaired as you cant put steel into the anodizing tank. I have to submit batchs of 12 or more parts.
So going to the post before, I am going to buy used valves both viper and srx and have a set of 12 of each done first, then repair the ends on them to have as the exchange program, its the only way to do this as the turn around time is 7-10 days from the plater. I can hold to my 1 week turn around on my end by doing a exchange program. If you send me a valve thats damaged on the face,rippled,gouged from piston hitting the edge or something other then the end being pulled thru its gonna not be a flat out exchange for a good valve repaired.
if there is minor rippling(common) on the tops or bottom that will just be plated over as it really doesnt effect the valves operation.
so as of today, if you want the valves repaired I am ready to do so.
If you want them recoated, I can NOT do this till I have my exchange program up and going which will be a little bit of time to collect/buy 12 viper valves, and 12 srx valves to have ready to exchange out.
I am aware a new valve is $105 new, so if you had the coating done and the end repaired youd still be saving basicly $30 each plus the valve will outlast a new std one by 10 times as the end will never pull out again. set of 3 youd save $90 over buying new yamaha ones.
NOTE: Once a valve has been repaired on the end, it can NOT be recoated/anodized again.
Last edited:
J_hubbs
New member
When you get your exchange program started I will send a set of Viper valves for repair/recoat. Shall we send you pics if there is any questionable wear or notches?
yes, if you dont leave clearance in the cable it pulls it up against the inside of the cable stop/housing and it wears the aluminum pulling the end thru it eventually.
jasonp
New member
hi im new to this site. I have a power valve cable broken. is it hard on the machine if I drive it like that. and where can I go to find out how to adjust it in lamens terms or a video. 98 srx 600.
staggs65
Moderator
Plenty of write ups on here on how to adjust, do a search, hours of reading.
heres a couple pics of the ends after I repair them. I have the tooling fixture now made and can do these on a regular basis.
The pricing is as follows:
set of 3 powervalves,end repaired and shipped back yo you via USPS proiority mail,1 week turnaround time -$125
Canada guys your price is $145 for a set of 3,same turnaround time on my part, I cant control the shipping once its sent out from me, I believe most Canada priorty mail is 6-10 days
single valve repair is $45 of less then 3-set
The pricing is as follows:
set of 3 powervalves,end repaired and shipped back yo you via USPS proiority mail,1 week turnaround time -$125
Canada guys your price is $145 for a set of 3,same turnaround time on my part, I cant control the shipping once its sent out from me, I believe most Canada priorty mail is 6-10 days
single valve repair is $45 of less then 3-set
Attachments
superfan75
New member
That looks better than new.
super1c
Super Moderator
Nice job and thanks for taking this on don.
its gonna cost u 4$ if u do it yourself for 3 power valve
Rustman
New member
You don't need a lathe to do this. I've fixed half a dozen of them now with a tap and die set, drill press and a die grinder.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
x2 on this ....lathe just give u a faster way to do it
lol...
FYI- I do them on a cnc mill, so you can certainly captain caveman them if you like or have all 3 exactly the same to the original measurement of the valve, its up to you guys.... but for price wise your not gonna beat the man modsrx, he can do them for $4......................
good luck guys, youll need it!
FYI- I do them on a cnc mill, so you can certainly captain caveman them if you like or have all 3 exactly the same to the original measurement of the valve, its up to you guys.... but for price wise your not gonna beat the man modsrx, he can do them for $4......................
good luck guys, youll need it!