no other changes to the engine just new OEM rings and 1 piston others were still within specs
SRX grass race results
- Thread starter needaSRX
- Start date
no other changes to the engine just new OEM rings and 1 piston others were still within specs
Andy, the differance is the helix finish angle and the gearing. Anytime you add finish angle to the helix your going to drop rom if you change nothing else. Anytime you gear up a sled youll drop rpm if you change nothing else because you loaded the motor harder in both cases ,so your rpm will be lower with the same clutch weight,primary spring,etc.
4 degrees in the finish angle was a big change, the gearing 1 tooth will also add to it a little bit, so thats the reason your lower on rpm then before.
the more angle in the helix finish the harder your loading the motor via the sec clutch.
the taller the gearing in the chaincase the more load you apply to the engine as the torq. multiplication is less, it loads the engine more.
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
andy wrong helix for your setup. don explains it above. when i used 4010yb h/c in my 2000 i believe for ice and grass i settled on a 51/37 cam. rpm was spot on 8450/8500. 3:16 (yammie tony)
Theres a few differnt ways to skin a cat with heel clickers and drag racing. 1 way is to use a heel weight and tip weight , with empty center weight hole, helix with a aggressive start(50-52 degrees) and a shallower finish angle(36-40 degrees ).
The other way is to use heel weight, loaded center hole and empty tip, helix with aggressive start(50-52 degrees) and medium finish angle(41-44degrees) to load the engine both by the primary and secondary clutch.
The thinking behind the 2nd way of doing this is your only on the track for 500ft, so you really dont spend that much time/distance on the tip of the weight vs the amount of time on the track on the heel and mid section of the weight. By loading the weight in the heel and middle hole your clamping the belt more on take off and midrange then just topend. In drag racing its all about the holeshot and the first 60-75ft, get the holeshot and pull ahead your almost certainly going to win unless something is way off in your rest of your set up regarding your topend speed output.
When doing this method I will use a helix with a steeper finish angle like 42-44 degrees. This will only work with the empty tip set up, as the primary weight profile is too aggressive on the h/c and the load applied via the sec. clutch overloads the engine and makes for low peak rpm in such a short distance.
Your clutch weight in grams will depend on which way you set it up, more clutch weight doesnt mean its faster. You can have a sled with 63 grams run just as fast OR slower then a sled that runs 57 grams, that doesnt matter as long as the rest of the parts in the clutch work together. Clutch weight used depends on the spring used and the load of the sec. clutch, gearing will also play a role as it determines the amount of load on the engine as well.
Its just simply getting the right rpm with your paticular set up. I have found both ways to be very quick on timers, alot of how good or bad it works in your sled goes back to the rest of the set up, gearing, studs, suspension set up, etc. The more studs you have and or longer thier profile, you have to pull those studs back out of the dirt as well, so remember parasetic drag comes into play.
as a rule of thumb, this means big (heavy)weights youll end up with a smaller helix, little (lighter)weights youll end up using a bigger helix.
Either one can be just as fast or slower then the other one, it just comes down to testing and taking notes as to which way works the best for you and your set up, this doesnt just apply to h/c's thats any clutch set up.
The other way is to use heel weight, loaded center hole and empty tip, helix with aggressive start(50-52 degrees) and medium finish angle(41-44degrees) to load the engine both by the primary and secondary clutch.
The thinking behind the 2nd way of doing this is your only on the track for 500ft, so you really dont spend that much time/distance on the tip of the weight vs the amount of time on the track on the heel and mid section of the weight. By loading the weight in the heel and middle hole your clamping the belt more on take off and midrange then just topend. In drag racing its all about the holeshot and the first 60-75ft, get the holeshot and pull ahead your almost certainly going to win unless something is way off in your rest of your set up regarding your topend speed output.
When doing this method I will use a helix with a steeper finish angle like 42-44 degrees. This will only work with the empty tip set up, as the primary weight profile is too aggressive on the h/c and the load applied via the sec. clutch overloads the engine and makes for low peak rpm in such a short distance.
Your clutch weight in grams will depend on which way you set it up, more clutch weight doesnt mean its faster. You can have a sled with 63 grams run just as fast OR slower then a sled that runs 57 grams, that doesnt matter as long as the rest of the parts in the clutch work together. Clutch weight used depends on the spring used and the load of the sec. clutch, gearing will also play a role as it determines the amount of load on the engine as well.
Its just simply getting the right rpm with your paticular set up. I have found both ways to be very quick on timers, alot of how good or bad it works in your sled goes back to the rest of the set up, gearing, studs, suspension set up, etc. The more studs you have and or longer thier profile, you have to pull those studs back out of the dirt as well, so remember parasetic drag comes into play.
as a rule of thumb, this means big (heavy)weights youll end up with a smaller helix, little (lighter)weights youll end up using a bigger helix.
Either one can be just as fast or slower then the other one, it just comes down to testing and taking notes as to which way works the best for you and your set up, this doesnt just apply to h/c's thats any clutch set up.
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
WHEN I HAD MINE, MR VIPER, ALLEN ULMER AND TURK (rip) ALL GAVE ME STARTING POINTS. I HAVE IT ALL WRITTEN DOWN. I DID ALOT OF TESTING AND THE 51 OUT OF THE HOLE WITH A SHALLOW FINISH 36/37 WAS MY FASTEST SET-UP. THE ONLY THING THEY DID NOT TELL ME THAT I DID ON MY OWN WAS CUT NOTCH IN THEM FOR A 5500 ENGAGEMENT. 3:16 (yammie tony)
staggs65
Moderator
We set up a stock SRX last month as Mrviper just stated, my piped/ported Viper only beat it by 2 tenths....but it did still beat it
lol, it is a good way to skin the cat with a srx
lol, it is a good way to skin the cat with a srx
these were snow drags Well I tried the heavy heel and heavy tip weight in the heelclickers and had my *** handed to me by 4 different sleds even a Flll 600 was pulling away from me in 660 ft here's my full setup
40-10 heelclickers (notched 5800 engagement)
6 grams in heel
7 grams in tip
red heelclickers primary
50/38 helix wrap@ 70 Yamaha Silver
21/40 gears
sno x 1.75 track lowered suspension
weight transfer set
the starting line was 12 inches snow packed great for holeshots
Just didn't seem like I had the HP to run this setup still only hitting 8100 rpms
I'm going to go through the simple stuff first there might be another set snowdrags this weekend
40-10 heelclickers (notched 5800 engagement)
6 grams in heel
7 grams in tip
red heelclickers primary
50/38 helix wrap@ 70 Yamaha Silver
21/40 gears
sno x 1.75 track lowered suspension
weight transfer set
the starting line was 12 inches snow packed great for holeshots
Just didn't seem like I had the HP to run this setup still only hitting 8100 rpms
I'm going to go through the simple stuff first there might be another set snowdrags this weekend
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7 grams in the tip with a 38 finish is likely too heavy for your engine. With that much tip weight I would think youd be down around a 35-36 finish. Youd need around 5.5 grams in tip with a 38 finish angle.
do you not do any testing before races? then youd know the tach would be low and to reduce the weight in the tip.Even without timers you can check yourself by the speedo at a cone set at the same distance your running at. You can also check the tach to make sure your at peak going past the cone.
I also wouldnt use a silver sec spring in snow, I would have used a green, that silver eats up topend alot. I use the silver in grass only because of the traction available, and then even sometime i will go back to a green at a little higher setting and pick up a mph or 2.
do you not do any testing before races? then youd know the tach would be low and to reduce the weight in the tip.Even without timers you can check yourself by the speedo at a cone set at the same distance your running at. You can also check the tach to make sure your at peak going past the cone.
I also wouldnt use a silver sec spring in snow, I would have used a green, that silver eats up topend alot. I use the silver in grass only because of the traction available, and then even sometime i will go back to a green at a little higher setting and pick up a mph or 2.
another thing is for SNOW drags your better off to gear the sled up some more, you will hook up alot better. You cant plant as much torq on snow like you can a studded track on grass and ice. Youll have better mid to topend mph,because with the lower gearing your spinning then overshifting the clutch from the snow then your gonna lose mph on the end because you had to backshift the clutch to catch up from the spin.
I always was around 22/38-22/39 for snow drags.
I always was around 22/38-22/39 for snow drags.
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
what track were you useing running a on a ft of snow? 3:16 (yamie tony)
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this is the exact setup I ran 3 yrs ago and won 700 stock with 20 other sleds in the class thats why I put it in, now it seems too heavy. the only other differance is I had a 1.25 predator track in there at the time now I'm running a 1.75 sno x track which I think is hindering my sled quite abit
I know the competition has been inproved in the last 3 yrs these sleds even old ones are still in the mix. my buddie with his 600ho sdi which I helped him set it up is now beating me and alot of F7s, his sled is pretty much dialed in going to need a true dialed in sled to beat him
they told me I was the only one to spin my track as far as I spun it before gaining traction with both my sleds the SRX, Vmax 4 both have paddle tracks
I'm going to take some weight out of the tip and try it later
YAMMIEGOD3:16
Active member
andy, lower your engagement for snow, i bet that would help for starters launching out of a foot of snow. i snow draged my 2002 srx last year. useing stock track and 1.175 mega-bites. i was not on a foot though, i say 6''/8' inch. well lucky for me, there were timers. andy literally every run sled got slower and slower and slower. best run of the day was very first. snow was hard and crusted/ frozen. you be surprised how snow conditions affect things. 3:16 (yammie tony)
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