99 MM 700 specs

M

mustardbucket107

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Joined
Nov 25, 2013
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Hey guys I've did some searchingand found helpful info, but I just picked up a 99 700mm and can't find what jetting it should have for 2000'. I was also wondering what weights/rivetsv for this elevation and what rpm it should turn.
Stock except SLP can and vforce reeds.
THANKS GUYS
 
Are they aftermarket pipes or the ones slp made for yami and we're sold as the gyt-r pipes? You may have to go to slp for the clutching/jetting tables for that one. Pretty sure the yami table only covers the triple/single configuration. Did you change a bunch of elevation since you bought it? Can you run it as is and check your plugs?
 
Thanks for the info. I just use tapatalk, but I can use the computer to o get the info. It is single pipe/slp can and the guy I bought it from had it jetted 10k-12k', I think the plus may burn white here maybe even silver if I push it hard enough
 
Missed the part about the can. Read slp and inserted triple pipes after it. Should be stock tuning, 0-3000ft is the first bracket I can look it up I have the manual on my computer later tonight. Sounds the same as my sled, only thing I did was raise my needles 1/2 clip.

Stock settings for a 2001 (MM700F) at 0-3500 ft. your clutching may vary with a 136 track vs the 141 track

Main Jets: 145, 143.8, 143.8 (pto, ctr, mag)
Pilot Jets: 45, 45, 45
Pilot Screw: 1 1/2 turns out
Idle 1600 RPM +/- 100
Engagement: 4500 +/- 200
Shift Out: 8300 +/- 250

Primary: Spring Y-w-Y, 8CF Weights, 13.9g heel 17.2 tip
Secondary: Spring G, 70 degree wrap with a 43 degree helix

Chain Case: 40/23 with a 70 link chain

Of course tuning is tough to verify with a glazed hardened 8DN belt, most of us run the carslile xs-805. It slips less, heats less and is more efficient

It might be worth verifying the clutching and gearing for the 99, jetting should be the same.
 
Last edited:
Ok, tore into it tonight
Main. Pilot. Clip
Pto. 130. 57.5. 2
Mid. 127.
Mag. 127
Fuel screws 1.5 out

Can't figure out why such big pilots
Can some one also give me spring rates on a w-s-w. Vs b-p-b. Vs g-w-g. I pulled the primary but didn't take it apart, but on the ground I can push the primary half ways and suspect a new spring is needed. I have the last two from previous sleds. Clutch is smooth, just soft. I just picked this sled up for $1000 and it had good compression, straight, skid relocated, 42xx miles. I don't think I did to bad carbs were severely dirty and the guy thought something was wrong with it. It does need a seat forgot to mention that, so if anybody has one they want to get rid of let me know. THANKS!

Boy my chart looked good when typing it
 
Doing some more digging tonight after getting rejetted and clutched, the suspension mounts all seemed moved back about two inches, I didn't measure, so I got a number off the track 8ed-47110-01 and as far as I can tell this is a 141". Can anyone confirm? Im also wondering if moving the suspension back instead of extending rails helped with the approach angle. The guy I bought it from said it was 136" but I'm guessing the guy before him had done this.
 
the 8ED track is the 141. yes, relocating the skid can reproduce a better angle if done correctly. 2" would be an akward move as it would put the front mount just about into the support for the steering hoop. is yours fore or aft of the this bracket? i have actually seen where some folks cut the lower portion off of the support with the front mount bolt being where this bracketry was. still works, there were better ways to achieve the angles.

did you figure out your springs? have the chart at hand if needed. 97-99 were all 136 sleds, but they were easy to make better.
 
looks like it was done correctly once, hence the backing plate apprx 4.5" back. yours is what i mentioned about removing the lower portion of the steering hoop.

i would guess at one time perhaps someone had a longer track on there along with some other options. would you mind posting some pics of the skid and include the mounts as well?

the bottom shot doesnt look period correct.
 
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