Getn ready for my first bout with power valves.

H

howsahemi

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Dec 31, 2008
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So I just got my srx and I'm about to try and tackle my first power valve cleanse and adjustment. I have the tech page printed out. Got my manual. Is there anything else I'll need? Will the gaskets need to be changed? This is where the how to videos would do a fella some good. If I get in a jam I can go to the original owner of the sled and ask him about it. Which actually I will do tomorrow at work if I get some time(he works at the same place as I do) Do I keep the sled running the entire adjustment? Or just to mark the servo?
 
Shouldn't need new gaskets, as long as you weren't seeing any oil leaking out to begin with your fine there. Once clean put all back together and start up. The pull the choke and idle sled below 900 and shut off. Then mark servo and adjust. The mark is so you can just move it back to original spot in case you move servo.
 
Get it to idle below 900 rpm (might have use choke to achieve low stumbly idle) Mark servo and shut off sled. Something I don't think is mentioned in write ups is that if servo is twitching (doesn't settle in and "park" so to speak) Valves are ALREADY to tight, loosen up adjustment and servo should park and stay put.
 
super1c said:
Shouldn't need new gaskets, as long as you weren't seeing any oil leaking out to begin with your fine there. Once clean put all back together and start up. The pull the choke and idle sled below 900 and shut off. Then mark servo and adjust. The mark is so you can just move it back to original spot in case you move servo.
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Either beat me by a milli-second or was a tie and your seniority was the tie breaker! BOTH posts @ 10:00!
 
What year is your SRX ?
I just ran across something insteresting, the 99 and newer SRX'S have a extra oring on the power valve assembly.
It slips onto the cable, when you repalce a cable on a 98 you will need those orings to keep the oil from spitting out.
 
I did mine the other day and the gaskets were stuck on hard so they tore when I removed the piece held on by the 4 allen screws. Not sure if it is the right thing to do but I put on a very thin layer of gasket maker then put the assembly back together.
 
You can make yourself a test lead to plug into the factory wiring harness for doing the cable adjustment.All you need is 2 lengths of wire of different colors,red and black work well in this case because you need a positive and a ground,a toggle switch and some crimp on wire connectors.Of course you also need a 12v battery,a lawn mower battery works well here.The lead you plug into is a white triangulated one that hangs right behind the airbox on the clutch side,it has a cap on it that you remove to access the pins.

When I made mine I used a forked wire connector on the red wire because you have to plug into 2 pins on the connector with the red and one with the black.Use alligator clips on the other end to clip to the battery and the toggle switch can go inline on the red wire where ever you want to put it,it just allows you to cut the power to the servo in the adjust mode if you need to.
 
As far as the cleaning part goes, NOSBOY recommended i soak the valves in ATF (high detergent). I did it, right in the sled, with an old bowl, for a few days. Mine were very dirty (9500 miles). The carbon almost melted off them! Just a thought.
Oh, and if you have any oil questions just give him a shout!!! LOL
 
you need to soak them in nothing. use a new razor blade for each valve, the carbon shaves right off. pull the valve completely out so you can inspect your cables and ends. if the sled is unknown, check the placement of the cables. I have seen some wound wrong. do not use steel wool, scotchbright, wire brush etc on these, they only need to be shaved clean, not immaculate.
 
BETHEVIPER said:
you need to soak them in nothing. use a new razor blade for each valve, the carbon shaves right off. pull the valve completely out so you can inspect your cables and ends. if the sled is unknown, check the placement of the cables. I have seen some wound wrong. do not use steel wool, scotchbright, wire brush etc on these, they only need to be shaved clean, not immaculate.
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X2 - I buy blades in the 100 pack and go through them like shop rags it seems.
 
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