Terrence R
New member
So, I can set get at the needles without taking the carbs off ehh? I'm guessing that the carbs gatta come off to adjust the oil pump cable thought? Thanx.
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
Would definately be easier with carbs off (needles) You should be able to check/adjust oil cable with carbs in place. there will a an adjuster in the cable, much like clutch cable on an ATV or hand brake on a bicycle. Once you find it you need to pull the cable loose out of the bottom of the adjuster. You pull the cable housing/adjuster apart and measure the gap there. A lot of guys get confused and try measuring the adjuster, doesn't work that way. Will seem kind of backwards in your head but a larger measurement = less oil, smaller measurement = more oil.
mile9c1
New member
Mine were both 2001 triples. I like seeing a tan plug too but mine were white the only time I checked them last season and it never blew up. You don't have to remove anything to check the oil cable adjustment, like the previous poster said. The oil cable runs right along side the throttle cable. Locate it, slide back the rubber cover that covers the adjuster (it's in the center of the cable), then pull the top side of the cable up and measure the "gap". Stock setting is 22-24mm.
mile9c1
New member
I find it tricky to remove the needles so I personally would not attempt it in the sled... considering how easy it is to take the carbs off, and how easy it is to drop things under the engine.
Terrence R
New member
Thanx. So, with the cable disconnected from the pump, there should be 23mm of cable hanging out? Do I measure from a particular spot, or just the cable itself? Thanx
Terrence R
New member
I'm a little confused on the oil adjustment. I measure the slack in the middle adjuster? With the cable still connected to the oil pump? I know what spot in the cable has that adjustment in the middle.
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
Yes, leave the oil pump end alone, no reason to unhook it. You basically need to separate the adjuster and the bottom side of cable housing. Pulling the two apart as far as they will go without getting roudy (this swings/moves pump arm) You are measuring basically the distance of exposed cable. At this point you are just checking it to make sure its where its supposed to be. Per Miles 22-24 (I don't know for your sled) If its say 15-16mm your excessive oil is causing a leaner condition.
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
http://www.totallyamaha.net/forums/showthread.php?t=54574&highlight=srx+oil+cable
Link better explaining oil adjustment. You can click on the words in blue and a pic will pop up
Link better explaining oil adjustment. You can click on the words in blue and a pic will pop up
Terrence R
New member
Thats some great info. Thanx.
Looking back at when I was taking the air box off a few times, I pulled on that cable to make it easier. I don't think it stretched out anywheres near 22 mm once it popped out. This is starting to make sense. The op said he turned up the oil pump. I never would've thought that would cause this. You guys are the best. I won't be able to check it until tomorrow tho cause I'm going to family Christmas stuff now. Thanx again.
so, I do gatta pull on it while checking it right? The adjuster prob just takes a 10mm wrench? Thanx.
Devilin AblueDress!
New member
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v94/daman1/60-1-1.png
^^^Pic of what it should look like when your measuring^^^^
If you pulled it apart while working on it and it didn't go back together right (all the way) this will add to already being turned up. Oil displaces fuel, effectively lowering octane which in turn creates a leaner burn. A few small things can add up to a big problem. Much like Super1c's thread where he self inflicted a lean problem, PO did it to you. May not be the entire problem, process of figuring out what is right and what is wrong.
^^^Pic of what it should look like when your measuring^^^^
If you pulled it apart while working on it and it didn't go back together right (all the way) this will add to already being turned up. Oil displaces fuel, effectively lowering octane which in turn creates a leaner burn. A few small things can add up to a big problem. Much like Super1c's thread where he self inflicted a lean problem, PO did it to you. May not be the entire problem, process of figuring out what is right and what is wrong.
I'm monitoring every post..learning alot..but still hoping the triples run good first time out this season.
Terrence R
New member
Well, I got my hopes up again. Just checked the oil pump cable. It's at 22mm. Do all those yamahas have the same oil cable settings? I noticed the links were for different machines. One a 94 and the other a SRX. Mine is an 02 Vmax. Also, am I supposed to pull on the cable nice and tight to get that measurement? That's what I did. I see in the link that it says that the "slack" should be within the 20-24mm range. I had to pull on it as there's tension the whole way through. So I'm not sure if I would call it slack or not. It instantly pulls up on the oil pump arm. But while pulling on it, i did get an exact 22mm gap. Just wanna make sure. Thanx.
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Terrence R
New member
Would the TORRS have anything to do with this? Is there supposed to be any free play on the oil cable before it pulls up on the pump arm?
staggs65
Moderator
I wasn't going to post in this thread any more because you won't follow instructions. But here it goes. It sounds like you did the oil cable check properly. Judging by your posts my best guess is you didn't properly clean the carbs. I'd restart there following one of the how to's in the tech section. Re-read your thread and pay attention instead of just throwing the guidance out the window. There is a systematic way to figure this out and i'm willing to bet it wouldn't take long to get sorted if you took the time to listen. This is my last post and once again, good luck
Terrence R
New member
? I've done everything that u guys have recommended. I don't know why you think I'm not paying attention. Sounds like you're getting more frustrated with this than I am. Thanx for your help in earlier posts though. Got a lot if good tips on what could be the cause. Unfortunately, none of them was the particular problem that's causing this. Just trying to see if anyone else might have some input on what it could be. Like I mentioned earlier, the reed spacers are the only real change that I've made to the machine. I don't know much about these machines. I'm wondering if the "TORRS" ( I think that's what my model has) could cause a problem like this if it needs some adjustment. After all, I did have to take my throttle cable off the rack. Maybe I didn't set the slack right. But, I do have about 2mm throttle play on the bars.
stagg65, sorry this is frustrating u. Just looking for input. I've been following everything you've said. I haven't denied any facts that u mentioned, and I've tryed all that u recommended. I don't really see why you think that I didn't/haven't.
staggs65
Moderator
Well maybe it's just me then but I feel you haven't given the answers to many questions in this thread. Maybe you tried the suggestions but you didn't report back therefore we can't move on.
What you describe is lean, so now need to figure out why. and there are only a few reasons and never should have taken this long to figure out.
1st. Did you follow one of the write ups in the tech section on how to properly clean and adjust the carbs if yes proceed to next step if not reclean and adjust your carbs following the writeup
2nd. would be an air leak. check everything for fitment and follow the suggestions to spray areas with carb clean while checking for a change in idle.
3rd. if that all actually done and done right then you need a jetting change. To determine which jets need changing you have to plug and piston wash readings at each throttle circuit in order to know where you are lean.
every one of these things were mentioned already and if done were never responded to or responded in a manner that you didn't actually do it as told.
just the way I see it. If you'd like to start over I'd be happy to try to help to the best of my abilities. I'm no expert but I'll help as best I can if you hold up your end.
What you describe is lean, so now need to figure out why. and there are only a few reasons and never should have taken this long to figure out.
1st. Did you follow one of the write ups in the tech section on how to properly clean and adjust the carbs if yes proceed to next step if not reclean and adjust your carbs following the writeup
2nd. would be an air leak. check everything for fitment and follow the suggestions to spray areas with carb clean while checking for a change in idle.
3rd. if that all actually done and done right then you need a jetting change. To determine which jets need changing you have to plug and piston wash readings at each throttle circuit in order to know where you are lean.
every one of these things were mentioned already and if done were never responded to or responded in a manner that you didn't actually do it as told.
just the way I see it. If you'd like to start over I'd be happy to try to help to the best of my abilities. I'm no expert but I'll help as best I can if you hold up your end.
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Terrence R
New member
So, to remove and lift my needles, I just have to: remove the covers, remove to 2 Allen screws, push the linkage over, then pull them out? That's what was explained on here earlier to me. But it almost seems like I gatta remove those bigger Phillip screws ( set screws) on that rod, then lift those arms up out of the way? Just wanna make sure before I go tackle this. Thanx.
mile9c1
New member
22mm is fine, the spec is 22-24 for your sled. Other sleds are different. You should calculate your oil consumption next time out, divide gas used by oil used, 50:1 is ideal imo.
mile9c1
New member
Only remove the allen screws. It's a lot easier to snake out the lift arms with the carbs off.
Terrence R
New member
Ok. Every single thing that u said that I didn't respond to, I did in fact respond to.
#1. I did clean the carbs three times thoroughly and followed the carb cleaning 101 in the tech section.
#2. I also mentioned that I looked for air leaks all over with carb cleaner and there was no change in idle.
#3. I mentioned numerous times that I went through all cycles for extended periods of time. Pilot circuit seems fine. Plugs look nice on that one. Mid range circuit seems slightly lean. Very dry with white ridge around electrodes. Mains seem the worse. Very white. The top end is where I see bad flaking on the pistons.
Because of those readings, I've been inquiring about lifting needles and changing out the main jets. I've been asking questions about particular sizes of main jets and the proper steps on how to lift the needles. I didn't post any pics of the plugs after the longer wot run cause it was super lean and I don't want to risk a burn down in doing so.
Honestly I do appreciate all your help. You've replied with some excellent suggestion. Others aswell. I've been reporting back with info after each trial. There's no need to reply anymore if you find this thread is becoming a new sense.
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