98 SRX carb question

S

SRXBOY

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Sep 21, 2011
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Age
63
Location
Edmonton Alberta
Hello out there.

I am just about finished cleaning my carbs and in one of the posts Mrviper mentions a screen. The screen is under the float and I need to remove the float and check the needle and seat and the screen is under there. When I check the needle and seat what do I look for if there are any problems.

How would I go about removing the floats? After I do will I have to adjust anything or is it an easy on and off procedure?

I was running lean in one of my cylinders, good thing I invested in guages, so cleaning the carb seemed to be the first thing to do. When I removed one of the jet screws and spring the spring was discolored and not shinny on one end is this something to look out for? Besides that they seemed clean with no green or dirt anywhere.

I replaced the main jets and the needle jets show no wear so I am thinking this is ok.

With the one cylinder running lean I was suprised at how much fuel my sled used compared to normal. I was constantly cracking the throttle to keep some gas in the cylinder until I could get it back to the trailer. No doubt in my mind I would have been pulling the engine apart if it were not for the guages. I use the guages with my vari-flow but it seems like a good investment anyway.

Thanks in advance
John
 
I used to use needle nose pliers. Place one jaw inside the tang and other outside tang on float pin and SQUEEZZE. Works okay but can mar up the end of the pin. Went to the automatic punch. This may be called something else where your at but its basically a center punch with a spring built into the handle. Put the punch on the end of the pin and push...spring will load then release popping the pin out. I have had them FLY RIGHT OUT! So careful or you will be hunting for that pin. I have never had to adjust float, just checked where they were at. The tab can be bent up or down setting where needle shuts off fuel. I just look at the tip of the needle, make sure its not misshaped/cracked/crud stuck to it. Girlfreind burnt down a SxR I "quickie cleaned" the carbs...skipped the needle and seat.....NEVER AGAIN on the "quickie clean"
 
Hi Devilin AblueDress

Thanks for the info it worked great. I used a small punch to start moving the pin then I could just pull it out. It was all clean inside and when I held the screen up to a light I could see through it perfectly. I think it may partially due to it has never seen anything beside 92 Now we have 94 octaine I will be using that from now on.

I have one more question. When I turned the carbs over and started to put everything back together the brass shaft (or what ever it is called) that the main jets screw into had dropped. It is loose and I can pull it up but it does not stay. I looked at it and I am not sure how it is attached. I have a new one that I may want put in. I have included a picture of what I am trying to explain.

If you look at the picture the carb on the left it has fallen and the carb on the right is still in postion, the brass shaft at the back of the carbs.

Thanks again John

Dec 19.2013htc 419.jpg
 
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that's your needle jet, or nozzle depending who you talk to. they just lightly seat in place. once you put the brass piece with the fuel baffle over it and put in your main it cant fall down like that. But flip the carb over and push it down in place from inside the carb opening to be sure it's all the way down. you can compare it with the one that doesn't move to make sure it's all the way in. generally they stay in place but I have come a cross a few like that.
 
Thanks for the help I am assuming the baffle is the circular plastic piece that you slide on before you put the main jet in. I found out what may have been my problem with the lean cylinder one of the needle clips had come off and the needle was not moving up and down. I got it all back together and primed it with some premix and I was supprised how many times I was priming and then noticed the fuel was shut off, :-) I turned the fuel on and she fired right up.

The temperatures on the guages are quite different but I am guessing because the coolant may not be cirulating properly yet and I had not warmed it up yet.

they were 134, 207 adn 242 with the 242 being the pipe side when I shut it down for the day. Previously they would warm up within about 50 degrees of each other.

I seems to have a not to bad of a sound with the Aaen pipes and v-force reeds. :-)

To bleed the cooling system from what I have read lift the back end up and then warm it up then loosen the bleader valve until the air stops? I have to pull the seat to do this? should keep the cap on the fill tank to build up pressure or leave it on?

Thanks again Devilin abluedress and Staggs65.
 
I got it all back together with V-Force reeds and the Aaen pipes. I am happy so far the mid to upper range power is noticeable and the throttle response is much better due to the reeds. When I got brave enough to punch it at around 80km it almost slid me off my sled since I was not sure what to expect and my guages were only reading 1100 degrees I still had a 100 degrees to go. :-) I am sure my ski's were of the ground more then usual

Some people have commented on Aaen pipes not working, I wonder if they purchased the race pipes instead of the trail pipes, I do not think the race pipes would do much on a stock sled. People have commented on it sound pretty good as well
 
I also have the Aaens pipes and like the sound plus the weight savings. The stock pipes have the insulation and shields over the pipe to keep heat in them which creates a horsepower advantage so I have wrapped my Aaens pipes to keep the heat in them.
 
Did you notice much of an RPM gain when you installed the pipes, I believe they make most of the power in the mid range so the tuning there may be required? Mine are ceramic coated. I barter and traded some guy for them I had to order a few parts but that was ok.
 
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