1997 sx700 low idle , bogging, and now different exhaust tone

chris700readhead said:
... problem with my secondary a couple years ago the bushing and slides were wore out and would not shift properly and cause some boggy conditions...
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A friend ran in to this a number of years back on his Vmax, the bushing in the secondary sheave (not the helix) was shot, his sled would not accelerate like it had been and his top end speed was down quite a bit. He wasn't too much for maintenance so he just replaced this bushing and the sled was back to how it had been.

Also, if you are having odd noises from the primary, check those bushings as they are common wear items, and for that matter check all moving parts and rollers to make sure they aren't worn and that they still spin/move properly.
 
chris700readhead said:
Under the engine is the only spot I have come into contact with a rub through on my sx. I had a problem with my secondary a couple years ago the bushing and slides were wore out and would not shift properly and cause some boggy conditions. Could also be a bearing for the jackshaft or driveshaft getting hot and starting to sieze.
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Well last year I had all new bearing put in the drive, chaincase, jackshaft, ( I believe ) and on the skid in all wheels


This is the kit I bought last year
http://www.powersportsplace.com/sea...ar/1997/make/yamaha/model/vx700sx-vmax-700-sx


They are still lost, or havent worked on it.. Said they would call me today with an update, but nothing.. They are only open til 2 tomorrow and closed New Years Day, which leaves me ONLY Thursday , IF its even fixed to ride , out of 10 days Ive had on vacation for Xmas and New Years... What a waste, and I am just beyond pissed off right now.. Now its back to 6 days a week ( starting Friday ) so even if it IS fixed, Ill barely get a chance to ride..


I know you guys are trying to help as best you can , but its tough for you to tell without even seeing the sled..

So... Symptoms are...

Bogging,
low idle ( at all temps ) Sometimes it holds steady at 1500 rpm, I take it down the trail , come to a stop sign and its barely idling.. Maybe 300 rpm or so
Sometimes its very responsive, but minutes later it will bog and run slower than a 340
horrible low end most of the time, even when its running "good"
clutch/belt squeek
When it acts up and gets boggy the motor and exhaust have a low boggy sound.. Not the typical rappy tripple sound, like something is plugged
 
You or the dealer or a bud needs to check the clutches over, even if it means disassembly for closer inspection.
Check all bushings, plastic sliders, springs, and all moving parts on both clutches.
Make sure clutch offset and center to center are within spec, as well as belt deflection.
Is the belt in good condition, not worn out too much either evenly or unevenly?
Any chance the engine is moving around too much from a mount or two broken or loose?

I know this sounds like a lot of work and it can certainly be expensive at a dealer, but you know you have clutch/belt noise that is not supposed to be there. And a poorly operating clutch setup can cause many of the symptoms you just listed. Didn't one of the TY'ers in MN post that he may be able to help, especially if he has some or all of the tools necessary for clutch work. Maybe post up your town/area and that you are interested in working with someone experienced from here to help sort your sled out.
 
I know. I wish I had a buddy that was closer. The nearest one for me is 2 hours away.. The guy at the dealership said if it was the clutch it would act up all the time... I disagree. They may have worked on way more machines , but I still disagree. They are convincing themselves its a fuel related issue. Not looking at anything electronic like the stator mag or coils because the one time they did check the spark, they said it was good.

I wish my dumbass would have checked the belt when I was on the trail when it started bogging. Just to see where it was sitting. I might have guessed it was starting in a higher gear with the belt down in the sheaves , but the power loss wasn't just low end , it was the whole power band
 
the rest of your symptoms are 1 or the other, the carbs pilot circuits are dirty, or the wiring harness is chaffed and grounding out the ign system. You state it runs good sometimes then goes into this bog,which tends to lead me away from the carbs because the carbs cant come and go, if the pilot circuit is plugged it stays plugged till its cleaned out.

The ONLY way to do the wire harness is unplug it up and the hood hinge, tie a rope on it and then pull it backwards and out and repair it.


Go pick up your sled, bring it home and we can fix it right here, all you have to do is follow instructions, its not that hard, if you can follow instructions you can fix this yourself!
 
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Thank you viper! Well it seems they had a Yamaha tech come look at it. The primary is shot and the rollers are worn into the aluminum. Or thats what they told me. They are looking for a used primary and I am going to order a clutch kit from hauck.... I knew the clutch was going out, but they didn't realize how bad it was until they pulled it and inspected further.

So as of now, I will be getting a new used primary and kit, with Yamaha belt.. They will put everything together and re install the clutch. I then will take it home and drive it.. And from now on I will be here doing my own work.. Learning everything. I need to look in the how to forums on clutch repair, deflection, etc in case it isnt done right.

And on how to pull the harness. Is there a how to on that as well? I didn't quote understand how you said to remove it.


Thanks again everyone. So much.
 
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