mile9c1
New member
I finally got a chance to test ride my monoskid this weekend (121" Viper). I set the spring sag per Pioneer's setup sheet (40-45mm), the limiter strap in the middle hole, and the control rod at max transfer (because it came this way). Overall I like the ride but the skis come up a bit too easily. How much transfer would I lose if I set the control rod to the middle setting? Next, after I adjust the rod, what effect would loosening the limiter strap 1 notch have? I like the way it steers now, when the skis are on the ground, but I think it could ride better over holes in the trail. TIA 
I just worked on a couple apexs last week, the limiter was all the way out and the transferr rod was at 5/8 of the max setting. On the stock yamaha tool(spanner wrench) it gives you the little guage to adjust the transfer rod to. It seemed like a decent balance, it would just pop the skis up but settle down quickly but the steering effort wasnt bad.
since the viper is no where near as heavy you can just start adjusting the limiter shock in a few threads till you find the sweet spot. everyones opinion is gonna be differnt then yours as to whats best, you have to set it up to your personal preferance.
I am gonna install one of those skids in my viper when i get time, they are pretty neat!
since the viper is no where near as heavy you can just start adjusting the limiter shock in a few threads till you find the sweet spot. everyones opinion is gonna be differnt then yours as to whats best, you have to set it up to your personal preferance.
I am gonna install one of those skids in my viper when i get time, they are pretty neat!
I'm with MRVIPER on this one. I have one in my 2002 SRX and the transfer rod adjustment makes quite a difference, I have mine set so if you nail the throttle the ski's will be just off the surface and when you get out of the throttle they plant right back down. Some have tried removing it completely and you can wheelie away to your hearts content. As with most things for our sleds, make one adjustment at a time and note the difference it makes!
mile9c1
New member
Thanks for the replies. Somewhere I read that the front limiter strap works differently than it does on the pro-action. I.E. shortening the strap won't necessarily increase ski pressure. So is the reverse true - that increasing the strap length doesn't decrease ski pressure?
Good info...I am in the process of setting up my 'New to Me" Apex and I am getting way too much weight transfer with limiter strap all the way out and max transfer rod adjustment...I will try the rod at 5/8 of max.
staggs65
Moderator
I'd like more discussion on this as well. I'm in the middle of putting a 136 mono in my Viper right now. Just need to make up a few spacers to bolt it in but I'd like to hear real world info on setting these up in the proaction chassis.
it looks like to me the strap works the same way. I might not have worded what i did the right way. Had 2 apex gt's here for suspension adjustment and ski change. put on c/a pro skis with shaper bars and they were awfull tough to turn too much ski pressure likely from the aggressive keel and those shaper carbides. So started playing with the skidframe adjustments and thats where i ended up was at 5/8 of the thread ajustment and the limiter strap all the way out, there was 2 other sets of holes to shorten it if wanted.
I went off the little guage on the tool from the tool kit in the trunk, tried it at max of course tight off the bat...lol, but it was a wheelie machine and of course its fun in a stright line but trees will not jump out of the way in the trails, so had to tame it back down. Seems like the transfer adjustment is pretty big differance, not like the old no action, it really responded alot with very little changes in the adjuster.
One other thing i did was had to grease both of the wheels on each side of the transfer rod,(they were dry sounding and rough turning) the bolt is in backwards from yamaha and you cant get it off without taking the transfer rod out!! So I took out the transfer rod bolt, greased the bushings in the trnsfer rod while it was apart and then reversed the bolt /nut/washer assembly in the idler wheels so in the future, you can take off the wheels and repack the the wheel bearing without taking off the transfer rod.
TIP: Use a floor jack under the track/rear wheels with sled sitting on a bumper/stand slight bit of pressure and the rear transfer rod bolt will come right out and install very easy!
I went off the little guage on the tool from the tool kit in the trunk, tried it at max of course tight off the bat...lol, but it was a wheelie machine and of course its fun in a stright line but trees will not jump out of the way in the trails, so had to tame it back down. Seems like the transfer adjustment is pretty big differance, not like the old no action, it really responded alot with very little changes in the adjuster.
One other thing i did was had to grease both of the wheels on each side of the transfer rod,(they were dry sounding and rough turning) the bolt is in backwards from yamaha and you cant get it off without taking the transfer rod out!! So I took out the transfer rod bolt, greased the bushings in the trnsfer rod while it was apart and then reversed the bolt /nut/washer assembly in the idler wheels so in the future, you can take off the wheels and repack the the wheel bearing without taking off the transfer rod.
TIP: Use a floor jack under the track/rear wheels with sled sitting on a bumper/stand slight bit of pressure and the rear transfer rod bolt will come right out and install very easy!
mile9c1
New member
Here's my best setup for trail riding:
-40mm sag (I'm 180ish with gear so this is almost all the way soft on the OEM spring)
-Limiter strap in the center holes
-Transfer rod at the nominal position.
-13 clicks out on the damping adjuster (this is with Pioneer valving)
I didn't like the limiter strap out, it bucked and darted
-40mm sag (I'm 180ish with gear so this is almost all the way soft on the OEM spring)
-Limiter strap in the center holes
-Transfer rod at the nominal position.
-13 clicks out on the damping adjuster (this is with Pioneer valving)
I didn't like the limiter strap out, it bucked and darted
snoprokidf6
Member
is that a ripsaw II on there?
mile9c1
New member
Yes, I put one on both my sleds this year. 700+ miles so far and no issues, I like them a lot (trail riding).
bluebullet
New member
I can tell you guys after fighting with my Apex LTX GT (136") I know I was close with suspension set up 40-45 mm sag, limiter in second hole from top, 14 clicks on Ohlins rear spring, but still I either had too much ski pressure or not enough carbide with stock skis. I tried duallys 6 in ( to much push) Shaper bars 6 in ( Couldn't turn and arms wore out! Next up, Yamaha tunner skies with 4 in inside and 2 in outside.....The best thing that improved the sleds handling! I could turn with less effort, no darting, no push on groomed trails.... Finally I felt comfortable riding hard again and the long track apex really was a new sled! The mono really will outshine the proaction in all areas. just make 1 change at a time and you will get it dialed in. I would think in a viper or SRX it would really shine. The fronts are not a heavy as the apex so if you try tunners I will bet you will fall in love all over again!
On the 4 stroke side there is alot of set ups for the mono and handleing ideas that might help.
Blue
On the 4 stroke side there is alot of set ups for the mono and handleing ideas that might help.
Blue
Im finding there are a ton of adjustments so its hard to get dialed in but when i get it figured out it will be nice. Just takes time and testing...
mile9c1
New member
I'm running the Tuners, but my Viper is probably 80+ pounds lighter than an LTX and it's a 121". Also, I have a Boss seat so I can't direclty compare to to a Pro-Action (my vmax still has the pro-action and the oem seat).