it looks like to me the strap works the same way. I might not have worded what i did the right way. Had 2 apex gt's here for suspension adjustment and ski change. put on c/a pro skis with shaper bars and they were awfull tough to turn too much ski pressure likely from the aggressive keel and those shaper carbides. So started playing with the skidframe adjustments and thats where i ended up was at 5/8 of the thread ajustment and the limiter strap all the way out, there was 2 other sets of holes to shorten it if wanted.
I went off the little guage on the tool from the tool kit in the trunk, tried it at max of course tight off the bat...lol, but it was a wheelie machine and of course its fun in a stright line but trees will not jump out of the way in the trails, so had to tame it back down. Seems like the transfer adjustment is pretty big differance, not like the old no action, it really responded alot with very little changes in the adjuster.
One other thing i did was had to grease both of the wheels on each side of the transfer rod,(they were dry sounding and rough turning) the bolt is in backwards from yamaha and you cant get it off without taking the transfer rod out!! So I took out the transfer rod bolt, greased the bushings in the trnsfer rod while it was apart and then reversed the bolt /nut/washer assembly in the idler wheels so in the future, you can take off the wheels and repack the the wheel bearing without taking off the transfer rod.
TIP: Use a floor jack under the track/rear wheels with sled sitting on a bumper/stand slight bit of pressure and the rear transfer rod bolt will come right out and install very easy!