Carb Tuning

I have an 02 and my uncle a 2000. Idle hang on both. Mine is maintained, his not so much. The idle hangs on both just like yours is.
I have NOT tried larger pilots. I am not too worried.
 

you can turn the screws out to 2 turns see if it helps, and also lower the idle speed down to 1500rpm, that will usually make it return quicker to idle speed. If not to your satisfaction youll need 45 pilot jets and screws set at 1.5 out.
 
Okay, i'll start with adjusting the idle and fuel screws, if i have to go much past 2 turns out, is it better to move up to 45 pilots?

Thanks for all your help Mr Viper, it has helped a lot.
 
Also, forgot to mention that it was about -23C yesterday when i was testing it out, i'm thinking it should improve some when its warmer out?
 
mrviper700 said:
so the pto cylinder blew up in your last engine and now this engine the pto is also leaner???.................... that tells me you need to look into your carbs and pay paticular attention to the pto one as theres something going on there then.

I see your in Canada, so you only are going to be running 91 octane in that sled as well right? Since your going to have the carbs off to check the pto cylinder, i would bump your needles up to 3.25 in it, the mains will be fine at 150 UNLESS you have a gutted airbox or cold air kit. If you have those things youll need to jet it up more.

If you ride alot at near the 10degrees down to zero degrees faren. youll need 152.5 mains

2 turns out on the fuel screws wont hurt anything.

what do you have in the sled for clutching and gears?

if its coughs and sputters and then goes fine after you stop and idle, the throttle cable is too tight and triggering the tors switch, loosen up the adjuster.
Click to expand...

mrviper700 I want to thank you for sharing so much experience with all of us!!!

I've been reading TY for years only recently decided to start posting. While reading about carb adjustments here, the last sentence of your post turned a light bulb on for me. For the last couple seasons I've (intermittantly) experienced a strange lack of power in the trails if I completely come off the throttle and then back on again. As I come back on the throttle on my 2000 SRX the engine revs some, but has a weird Bumm...Bumm...Bumm sound as I lose power and roll to a stop.

The only way to get the power back is to let off the throttle, and let it come completely down to an idle for a couple of seconds, and then it zips like usual. (My riding buddies especially love slamming on their brakes to avoid me as I unexpectantly have to roll to a stop on the trail, and then zip away. No guys it's the sled acting up, I'm not being a jerk.)

I always thought my power valves were sticking (hanging up) and robbing power till they returned to their normal position. But after reading this post I realize the the Bumm...Bumm...Bumm sound is very similar to what you experience in a newer vehicle if you are sitting in park and floor the throttle. The computer kicks in and limits the RPM to protect the free-revving motor. (Sort of similar to the rev limiter some drag racers use at the starting line, while holding their throttle wide open.)

The throttle cable on my sled must be too tight, like Mrviper said, and is triggering the TORS. What a simple adjustment to correct a pain in the @$$ problem I've been dealing with for a couple seasons. Thank you soooo much MrViper, I definitely owe you a beer or something.
 
mrviper700 said:
you can turn the screws out to 2 turns see if it helps, and also lower the idle speed down to 1500rpm, snip


This was effective on my '01 except on super cold days in which case I blip the choke.

Just remember to double check the throttle cable freeplay to avoid TORS issues.
Click to expand...
 
For the idle hang easiest first step is to turn the idle down. As for the throttle over ride bum bum sound if slacking the cable doesn't do it take a look at the pivot in the throttle, it should snap back not slowly return. If it slowly reruns may need little cleaning/smoothing of the pivot point.
 
snomofo said:
This was effective on my '01 except on super cold days in which case I blip the choke.

Just remember to double check the throttle cable freeplay to avoid TORS issues.
Click to expand...

if you lower the idle speed you add slack to the throttle cable therefore theres no need to check the freeplay. the looser the cable the better.
 
FordDealer said:
mrviper700 I want to thank you for sharing so much experience with all of us!!!

I've been reading TY for years only recently decided to start posting. While reading about carb adjustments here, the last sentence of your post turned a light bulb on for me. For the last couple seasons I've (intermittantly) experienced a strange lack of power in the trails if I completely come off the throttle and then back on again. As I come back on the throttle on my 2000 SRX the engine revs some, but has a weird Bumm...Bumm...Bumm sound as I lose power and roll to a stop.

The only way to get the power back is to let off the throttle, and let it come completely down to an idle for a couple of seconds, and then it zips like usual. (My riding buddies especially love slamming on their brakes to avoid me as I unexpectantly have to roll to a stop on the trail, and then zip away. No guys it's the sled acting up, I'm not being a jerk.)

I always thought my power valves were sticking (hanging up) and robbing power till they returned to their normal position. But after reading this post I realize the the Bumm...Bumm...Bumm sound is very similar to what you experience in a newer vehicle if you are sitting in park and floor the throttle. The computer kicks in and limits the RPM to protect the free-revving motor. (Sort of similar to the rev limiter some drag racers use at the starting line, while holding their throttle wide open.)

The throttle cable on my sled must be too tight, like Mrviper said, and is triggering the TORS. What a simple adjustment to correct a pain in the @$$ problem I've been dealing with for a couple seasons. Thank you soooo much MrViper, I definitely owe you a beer or something.
Click to expand...

theres alot of people who fight with the tors system, its not very hard to adjust and have working properly, it will save you and your sled from alot of damage if the throttle ever sticks from ice or whatever, very important to have working!

A loose throttle cable will still open the slides in the carbs all the way!
 
i pulled my carbs apart on my 2002 srx 700 today for some reason that I am not sure of the clutch side main jet was 147.5 and the other two carbs were 146.3. the pilot jets were all the same at 42.5. is this normal?
 
yamaha10290 said:
i pulled my carbs apart on my 2002 srx 700 today for some reason that I am not sure of the clutch side main jet was 147.5 and the other two carbs were 146.3. the pilot jets were all the same at 42.5. is this normal?
Click to expand...

yes, thats normal and stock spec. yamaha believes because of the extra clutch heat you need a bigger jet on the pto cylinder.
 
I posted a defective TORS sound on youtube. I will link it here.
http://youtu.be/a428j1uLgWU
Mine wasn't out of adjustment, the carb switch actually broke(would not change state, I can't remember if its NO or NC).
I wouldn't ride sled until I had a new one. 20min to replace. Somewhere around $30. Saved me a garage door once. I swear 1/4" of slack will open throttles all the way(I experiment alot).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.


Back
Top